Fixing Ratio Fences

[Wishmaster]

I've got some Ratio fencing, standard track side stuff. Doesn't seem a lot of posts on the ends. What's the best way of fixing to the baseboard? I want some of it to curve.

Will PVA actually hold it upright in place?

[Karhedron]

Both ratio and peco fencing seems to be made out of some plastic that is very "slippery". It seems quite hard to glue and paint is prone to flaking off. I might investigate the etched option too. Can you get it by the roll? 

[cjdodd]

I sprayed mine in primer then painted them.

Mine are super glued down, but I will probably got for etched fences next time, much easier to model.

[port perran]

I too have found it difficult to "control" the Ratio plastic fencing.
PVA will hold it but it depends what you are fixing it to. Very small drilled holes (only a mill or two deep) will help (particularly for curved sections).
As for painting (and it does look better painted) it will benefit from an undercoat first.

[Paddy]

Agreed, Ratio and PECO fencing is a challenging product to use unless you use it "as is".  You can read my trials with it in my HOLLERTON JUNCTION thread.

Kind regards

Paddy

[macwales]

Hi

Having tried several methods I now use this one for all plastic fences. I have also used it for etched brass fences.

1  Get an awl (not the round or screw type - the edged type is best ) as this can be used to make a small shaped hole in the baseboard / scenery.

2  Spray paint an undercoat and topcoat on the fence- allow to dry

3  Mark the position of  the fence holes centres carefully with a sharp pencil using the painted model fence as a template.

4  Make  small holes with the awl as close in shape to the cross section of the fence posts as possible

5  Make a pool of superglue on a piece of card and dip the fence posts in it and secure them by pressing into the holes at the correct  height. Hold until set (at least a minute)

6  Allow to dry overnight and then dab some PVA in the holes with a fine brush. Wash brush with water straight away. Allow holes PVA to dry for a couple of days then paint and or cover any visible holes with scatter / grass.

Cheers

Mac

[Bealman]

Yes, I have always been unhappy with both the Ratio and Peco products. You only have to look at pics of my layout to see the bendy plastic effect.

I put them in place 23 years ago to get the scenery looking decent, with the intention of replacing them at a later stage.

They're still there. 

[NeMo]

Mine are super glued down, but I will probably got for etched fences next time, much easier to model.

Absolutely, and that's what I did with my nuclear layout. Got some etched brass Scale Link fences that were immeasurably easier to paint, weather and fix. Not particularly expensive: I got some old stock that was lying around at Kent Garden Railways for, I think, about £4 a pack, with each pack including enough straight fencing and gates for maybe 60 cm or trackside, plus a couple of angled frets presumably for use on platform ramps.

Totally fed up with wrestling with the cheaper but for me invariably disappointing Peco fences.

Cheers, NeMo

[Newportnobby]

I am in possession of some Peco fencing which I intend to spray with Railmatch sleeper grime as I reckon it's a nice sh brown colour, so thanks for the tip on priming it first
To avoid the fencing sticking to anything whilst painting, DavieB of this parish gave me a good tip, which is to drill some holes in a piece of cardboard and fit the fencing into the holes. That way, the plastic can be sprayed both sides and allowed to dry without being in contact with anything else.
I just wasn't brainy enough to think of doing that

[cjdodd]

I use a clothes peg to hang onto the foot of the fence, same as drilling a hole in a board I guess.

[Bealman]

Either way, both good tips 

[Bob Wild]

Hi

Having tried several methods I now use this one for all plastic fences. I have also used it for etched brass fences.

1  Get an awl (not the round or screw type - the edged type is best ) as this can be used to make a small shaped hole in the baseboard / scenery.

2  Spray paint an undercoat and topcoat on the fence- allow to dry

3  Mark the position of  the fence holes centres carefully with a sharp pencil using the painted model fence as a template.

4  Make  small holes with the awl as close in shape to the cross section of the fence posts as possible

5  Make a pool of superglue on a piece of card and dip the fence posts in it and secure them by pressing into the holes at the correct  height. Hold until set (at least a minute)

6  Allow to dry overnight and then dab some PVA in the holes with a fine brush. Wash brush with water straight away. Allow holes PVA to dry for a couple of days then paint and or cover any visible holes with scatter / grass.

Cheers

Mac

Thanks, a useful heads up. I found the easiest way to hold them during painting was to leave the rail on which the actual fence is mounted and use blu-tack to make them sit upright on a bit of card. Thus:

[smg id=18031 type=preview align=center caption="Painted fences"]

I'm a bit curious about the preference for the etched variety. By its nature a fence is made from bits of wood nailed or screwed together. How can this be achieved in a two dimensional etching? It certainly can be in a moulding.

(It remains to be seen how easy they will be to mount, but fingers crossed, DV)

Bob

[EtchedPixels]

I glue the hidden side of mine to trackpins down the posts at regular intervals with the pointy bit sticking out of the bottom, then just stab them into the scenery.

Alan

[Bob Wild]

I glue the hidden side of mine to trackpins down the posts at regular intervals with the pointy bit sticking out of the bottom, then just stab them into the scenery.

Alan

That sounds a bit easier than Mac's method!

Bob

[ozzie Bill.]

If you are up for it, and the thickness of the post allows, you can also drill a vertical hole into the base of the post and insert a pin "up the 'ole" as it were. Whilst "they don't like it up em", if you can do it, the fixing is completely hidden. Useful in areas where the fence is fully visible. You can even use a bit of fine brass wire, it's not as if this is weight bearing, it's only for positioning. Cheers, Bill.