At the moment various microlayout scenes, Wadebridge as it might have lasted into the 1980s and the other side of the layout I'm just starting to do the woodwork for a 'what if' Birmingham Snow Hill had survived as a local station and then become the HS2 station as well. I can't fit it all in so I'm going to assume most of one side of it got turned into a shopping precinct .

I've no idea how I'm going to do all the architecture it's going to be a big learning exercise. OTOH its an excellent modelling excuse as it covers a lot of modern activity and franchises - Central/London Midland diesel local services, electrified local services, cross country stuff, Arriva services to Wales, the current Marylebone services, WSMR, the Shakespeare express, steel services to/from Wolverhampton, HS2 services: Eurostar, freight, perhaps ICE services .. well not at the Arnold price for an ICE set , perhaps Nightstar and so on. And in fact assuming HS2 was continental gauged all the way to Wolverhampton steel terminal lots of cool non UK wagons as well.

And with a period change it can cover late 1960s (Hydraulic Heaven ) and 1970s stuff too.

Hi,

Just finishing off the first of three bridges for my US layout, then I plan to start my GWR weed killer train.

It's a kit bash using a box grider bridge I won on E-bay and two sets of Peco girder bridge sides. 2' 4" in length. Hopefully it will be in place by tomorrow evening.

Alex

At the moment repainting a warehouse building that will be going on the layout soon. Whilst it dries Im working on a small platelayers hut that is actually an American plastic kit, although it will be on a British themed layout. Pictures to follow soon I hope......

 

Currently got five class 37`s on the bench being renumbered,new depot plaques and new rfd distribution and construction logos being fitted.

Stuart

Having a go at bllasting using my new gizmo....

Tadpole - that looks very neat. Do tell more as I will have to get to this stage eventually.

The gizmo is brilliant, but will take practice. basically it's a little "hopper" with a permanently open slot at the bottom. There are also grooves 9mm apart to keep it on the rails.

Before starting, ensure any track pins are removed or are in far enough so they don't interfere with the sliding gizmo, do a dummy run and run it along the track empty to ensure a clear passage. Then fill the hopper with ballast chips, slide it along the rails at the appropriate speed, and you get a neat application of ballast between and outside the rails - so far I've been too slowly and the result is slightly too much ballast (you need it to be level with the sleeper tops).

You can tidy up with a modelling paintbrush - I find running the brush along each rail (so the hairs are split either side of the rail) ensures the rails are clear. Run a wagon along the track at this point to ensure there are no stray bits interfering with the flanges.

Once you're happy, apply (with a syring, dropper bottle or similar) diluted PVA (1:3) (and washing up liquid, apparently, though I omitted this). You don't have to wet everything, just between the rails (in the four-foot), capilliary action will ensure that it all gets glued. Run your wagon up and down again just to be sure, then ignore for two days (yes, two days).

I've just tested it on two tracks attached to some balsa wood (for my display cabinet), so when dry I'll turn it upside down to allow any non-glued excess to fall off - I could get an unpleasant surprise at this point! On a permanent layout, you'd need a hand held vacuum cleaner to lift off any excess.

When doing multiple track, you'll probably have a gap in the six-foot, so sprinkle chips into it with a thimble or similar, and a few spots of gluey water.

Upnick has made a ballasting hopper, complete with brush. Maybe he'll post his guide in the tips section? :-)
The washing up liquid breaks the surface tensionallowing the glue to work better. PVA can sometimes turn the ballast green. Diluted Copydex might be better than PVA.

I'm trying to make trees at the moment and finding it hard to get the clumped foliage to stick to the wire frame.
It keeps falling of... The cheapest hair spray from Wilkos helps once I've got a bit on.

I've tried PVA which is okay once it's dried,but a but fragile until then,I've tried UHU and my hot melt gun,both tend to string.I'm going to try the solvent free UHU next because I read somewhere that it doesn't string.

At the moment I've found that soldering it up as I go is working out best for me,it stiffens the wire and makes it more positional.
Soldering also helps to stop the weight of the foliage bending the branches down which has happened on one attempt.

When I've decided where each branch splits off I lightly twist the wires together,bend an "L" shape and put it in the chuck of a battery drill,this twists it nice and tight and makes the branch sizes a bit more proportional as I work up the tree.

The trunk I've tried hot melt glue to thicken it up before painting.

Allan

Mrs. Europeantrainman will show you how it's done. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNEjsNRX24o

I don't think my wife will make my trees though.

Anyway I'll probably call in "Total N gauge" tomorrow and get some tacky glue and alternative foliage stuff.

Got to get all my hobby shop visiting done this week because I'm in for a new hip on Saturday and it's no driving for at least six weeks afterwards.
If I can I like to call in a shop and see what I'm buying rather than mail order.

Allan

Is it me or has she got too many fingers  

Also, 'cos I didn't read it properly the first time and only noticed when Lawrence posted (see below), best of luck with your new hip, Allan, hope it all goes according to plan.

Best wishes for the op Allan, and a speedy recovery 

Quote from: Bikeracer on June 27, 2011, 06:00:28 PM
I don't think my wife will make my trees though.

Anyway I'll probably call in "Total N gauge" tomorrow and get some tacky glue and alternative foliage stuff.

Got to get all my hobby shop visiting done this week because I'm in for a new hip on Saturday and it's no driving for at least six weeks afterwards.
If I can I like to call in a shop and see what I'm buying rather than mail order.

Allan

Best wishes mate. OwL

Thanks to you all for the best wishes.

I called at "Total N gauge" and picked some jars of Woodlands Scenics foliage and turf etc. I think that Bob who was in charge of the shop today has joined this forum recently.

Picked up a large bottle of Anitas Tacky Glue to try.On the drive home I did notice what I think is an oak tree with an extremely fat trunk so I've attempted to make something similar.

If it works out okay I'll post a pic and people can tell me if I'm going in the right direction with this tree making,it's a lot more time consuming than it appears at first.

Allan