Backscenes

Started by Moria, April 24, 2022, 11:32:01 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Moria

How do people go about attatching backscenes to their backscene boards.

I have some backscenes and have had 2 disasters so far in trying to attatch them.   

First method was an ID backscene with a self adhesive backing...   that worked for a few days until the glue started to come unstuck and it was a real pain to get right in the first place.  scrapped.

Second method was using deluxe materials backscene glue, which frankly is (I think) just a version of wallpaper paste, which, after being left to dry for 24 hours or more, destroyed the backscene and then left it wrinkled and unusable and luckily when going to remove it, it mostly just peeled away.  scrapped.

I'm now thinking of trying to attatch an ID backscene, not self adhesive, using 2" wide double sided carpet tape along the edges with some lines across the board and wondered if this was a method anyone else had used.

The boards I am attatching it to are primed marine ply, so they are nice and solid.  An issue may be that the backscene has a curve on it, gentle, but there, and so the backscene itself will be in compression when erected, so whatever the mount is, it needs to be able to hold it firmly, but flat.

Regards to all, and all suggestions welcome.

Regards

GRaham
It is well known that a vital ingredient of success is not knowing that what you're attempting can't be done.

Currently packing all my model railway stuff for my move to Canada in April when a whole new chapter starts in Modelling.

crewearpley40


Moria

Quote from: crewearpley40 on April 24, 2022, 11:45:59 AM
Graham hope this helps. Chris https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=55355.0

Thanks, it's not so much attatching the backscene boards..  they fit in a milled slot in the boards,  more about attaching the backscenes to the backscene boards :)

The backscene boards are great and interlocked with the main boards, so they are stable.

Graham
It is well known that a vital ingredient of success is not knowing that what you're attempting can't be done.

Currently packing all my model railway stuff for my move to Canada in April when a whole new chapter starts in Modelling.

crewearpley40

Discussions have taken place as to whether to use pva, glue , mounting spray. I'm not a fan of wallpaper paste. This is available   https://www.amazon.co.uk/Deluxe-Backscene-Adhesive-Coverage-Approx/dp/B004QJSJFO

Dorsetmike

I print my own backscenes on 4' lomg banner paper, stick it to ply or hardboard with  3M Spray mount

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SprayMount-YP208060506-Adhesive-Spray-Transparent/dp/B000J68HBO?ref_=nav_custrec_signin&
Cheers MIKE
[smg id=6583]


How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost!

Newportnobby

The plywood back panels on my small layout are 9" tall. Using ID Backscenes they are nipped at the base where the back panel meets the base board and 'clipped' at the top using the plastic spines used for collating A4 sheets of paper (no adhesives used). I chose blue but also have some clear ones, and they have the added bonus of protecting the tops of the backscene from errant cuffs, hands etc so don't get torn. I didn't have space to curve the panels so had a diagonal as a corner.............




stevewalker

Quote from: Moria on April 24, 2022, 11:32:01 AM
Second method was using deluxe materials backscene glue, which frankly is (I think) just a version of wallpaper paste, which, after being left to dry for 24 hours or more, destroyed the backscene and then left it wrinkled and unusable and luckily when going to remove it, it mostly just peeled away.  scrapped.

It it is anything like wallpaper paste, I'd expect to seal the backboard with watered down paste (size) or better still watered down PVA, then allow it to dry. Then paste the paper and leave for 10 minutes to soak and relax. Finally put it in place and smooth. As the adhesive dries, the paper contracts a little, pulling taught rather than wrinkling. I know that failing to soak can cause big problems with wallpaper wrinkling as it dries.

LASteve

I used photo mount spray from 3M to fix the backscene on my original Moorpark layout (I mounted it on thick 4mm poster matte boards).

It worked a treat and it gives you a little leeway to align things just so before you press it down into place. Never a problem with peeling or blistering.

Moria

Many thanks all...   I see two votes for 3m photo mount, so will try that.

Next weekend, there will either be pictures or tears...  I'll let you know which :)

Thanks again.

Graham
It is well known that a vital ingredient of success is not knowing that what you're attempting can't be done.

Currently packing all my model railway stuff for my move to Canada in April when a whole new chapter starts in Modelling.

Bonnyman750

My backscenes were a mixture of both Gaugemaster (small town scene) and Peco (Industrial town scene). The sky was cut off the Peco scene with the intention of overlaying it over the Gaugemaster one to create a sense of depth/perspective. I deliberated long and hard on a fixing method before deciding wallpapering way.

First the 6mm ply x 9" high boards were sized with 50/50% wallpaper paste/water mix, brushing on with a 4" wallpapering brush and left to dry completely (24 hours)...

Then I covered the sized boards with 1200 grade lining paper, to eradicate any imperfections, using the correct mix for lining paper as stated on the paste packet and leaving the paper to soak for 8-10 minutes before fixing to the boards, smoothing the paper out with a wallpaper hanging brush. Again left to dry completely over the next 24 hours...

Once dry any high spots were gently sanded flat and any dents/imperfections filled with standard grade Polyfilla, left to dry and then sanded down until all the boards were perfectly flat....

Then the first (Gaugemaster) backscenes were fixed to the boards using the same correctly mixed paste and again left to soak for 5-8 minutes, then pasting to the boards and smoothing out with the hanging brush. Once again, leaving o dry completely...

Then the cut out Peco scenes were pasted on top of the Gaugemaster ones and left to dry before doing any required edge trimming. I actually used 2 of the Peco ones and cut and shut them to create enough coverage and to blend in the edges so the final result didn't look fractured...

Any air bubbles were pierced with a needle and any air smoothed out gently with the hanging brush...

After all this was done I had three perfectly flat backscenes with no ripples or tears...

Hope this helps...

Glyn

Train Waiting

I used 3M 'Display Mount', which I understand is a bit 'stickier' than 'Photo Mount'.  It was really easy to use and the backscene (and sidescenes) remain stuck.

Best wishes.

John
Please visit us at www.poppingham.com

'Why does the Disney Castle work so well?  Because it borrows from reality without ever slipping into it.'

(Acknowledgement: John Goodall Esq, Architectural Editor, 'Country Life'.)

The Table-Top Railway is an attempt to create, in British 'N' gauge,  a 'semi-scenic' railway in the old-fashioned style, reminiscent of the layouts of the 1930s to the 1950s.

For the made-up background to the railway and list of characters, please see here: https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=38281.msg607991#msg607991

Please Support Us!
May Goal: £100.00
Due Date: May 31
Total Receipts: £12.34
Below Goal: £87.66
Site Currency: GBP
 12%
May Donations