I may be lost in the past but here goes..........
1)Is there any use for insulfrog points these days?

2) Is Z gauge a viable proposition for adding narrow gauge to an 'N' layout?

3) When I last modelled 30 years ago there wasn't a decent breakdown crane in 'N', is there now?

4) As above, 30 years ago I don't remember a remote uncoupler like a ramp, any about now?

5) Back in the day Sundeala was regarded as tops for a baseboard top, is that still the case?

6) Pros and cons of code 55 v code 80 rail please.

Thanks to anyone for their patience with this new/old modeller.

Hi
1. Peco Unifrog works straight off as the modern Insulfrog and I'm sure if used as such should be compatible with any existing Peco track you may have. Electrofrog usage as ever can give much better running with short wheelbase loco's at slower speeds and the electrics aren't really daunting - advice can be found on this forum if unsure.
2. I think it might prove quite expensive regarding sourcing motorizing chassis, it depends on your budget and how many you might want/need, I don't know track standards, but you might have to work at blending in the two types so they don't look too odd near each other (see 6!).
3. Osborn's Models https://www.osbornsmodels.com/ocww-aln102--ready-to-run-45t-br-red-ransomes--rapier-crane-47322-p.asp do a very good ready-to-run large mobile crane, primarily suitable for the steam era, although if you model a preservation line that'd be fine too.
The N Gauge Society are asking for a deposit on a r-t-r mobile yard type crane; https://www.ngaugesociety.org/sandpit/products/ready-to-run/cowans-sheldon-6-5-10-ton-crane/ You have to be a member to pre-order, but I reckon membership is very much worth the money on it's own anyhow.
There is a 3d printed large modern mobile crane available on Shapeways: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/bmthtrains Expensive these days compared to when I bought mine, he also does a runner wagon set and you need to buy those bogies separately, wheel sets and be able to clean up and paint, source suitable decals - but it is excellent in my view.
There were projects on here for a forum 3d printed large crane or two, but I've not seen progress on this/these(?) for a while.
4. I think most modern uncoupling relies on Peco ramp=type uncouplers for the still omni-present 'Rapido' style couplers or magnets for the more modern buckeye style. There is much excellent practical advice on this forum if you use the search function.
5. Sundeala was popular primarily for the ease of taking track pins, Ply is a popular choice for light weight as track if often glued directly, or with a cork or alternative glued down first.
6. Code 55, or 80, that is now not the only question. Some still choose Code 80, I think because in some cases the set-track curves seem easier to utilise rather than "mucking about" curving flexi! 55 will always look better (stands back and awaits rebuttals!). but you can now go finer still with Finetrax Code 40; https://www.britishfinescale.com/ These come in kit form for the pointwork and plain rail and sleepers for the other lengths. Again, you would need to be confident in building points but the kits ar very user-friendly so should be worth at least a try. Code 40 will take virtually all modern loco's/stock, if you have any older or are thinking of acquiring second-hand then Code 55 should take most older stuff.

Lots of existing practical advice on here using the 'search', and I'm sure more responses will follow.

Regards, Gerry.

hello and welcome!

look up nn3 online or on ebay and you might find some narrow gauge items for sale - mostly american.

good luck


tim

I'm part way through building my layout and am including an nn3 narrow-gauge. I have used PECO's NG-651 tram loco body on a Marklin chassis:

https://www.normanwisenden.co.uk/ng651-peco-narrow_gauge-tram_locomotive_body_kit.asp

I have currently stripped everything below the sole bars of two Shredded Wheat carriages and glued them to the chassis of a couple of American, Z-gauge, bogie tankers.

Having excavated the loft for decades old model stuff I find I have those Shreddie coaches but no idea how I got them!! Great info, I'll check out that Peco loco.

Probably repeating what's already been posted, and I'm coming at this from Continental N modeller's perspective rather than British N...

Quote from: brakevan on October 21, 2022, 11:03:28 AM
I may be lost in the past but here goes..........
1)Is there any use for insulfrog points these days?

It still tends to be the default design for beginners, being simple plug and play with no risk of frog shorts as you get with Electrofrog if you don't isolate the frog V rails in particular situations. Live frogs properly wired to changeover switches will give you the most reliable slow running over points with short locos.   Peco Unifrog is seen as the way forward being a self-contained isolated metal frog which can be powered through a polarity changeover if desired for best continuity.  Unfortunately although great for DCC the Unifrog points don't "power route" like DC users are accustomed to.

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2) Is Z gauge a viable proposition for adding narrow gauge to an 'N' layout?

Yes it can be done, there are Peco loco body kits as have been posted, also some expensive "artisan" Continental stuff in Nf.

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3) When I last modelled 30 years ago there wasn't a decent breakdown crane in 'N', is there now?

Presume you're referring to British N?  There have been cranes in Continental and American N for decades.  The other posters have mentioned the Osbornes model and the N Gauge Society model.

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4) As above, 30 years ago I don't remember a remote uncoupler like a ramp, any about now?

They've always been available in the Continental N ranges (eg. Fleischmann, Minitrix), either manual or electric powered.  Peco have a simple lever operated one in their range. To be honest I just use a dentist probe to lift my Rapido couplings. There are ways to adapt Rapido couplings so they can be operated using electro magnets - again that has been around a long time.  Some folk use alternative coupling designs which better support remote uncoupling, including buckeye styles which use permanent magnets in the track and support "pre-uncoupling" where you uncouple and then shunt the stock further into the siding without the coupler re-engaging. 

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5) Back in the day Sundeala was regarded as tops for a baseboard top, is that still the case?

I seem to recall it  is/was a better finer version of insulation board?  Never a fan personally not even "back in the day", nor am I a fan of MDF.  9mm ply is my preferred material, easy to work with and takes pins, screws, or glue. 

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6) Pros and cons of code 55 v code 80 rail please.

Peco Code 55 is better looking in my opinion, and actually stronger than code 80 due to the embedded "double T" rail section. The flexitrack holds a curve better while you're laying it. Can't say the same for some of the American code 55 track, I think that is just standard T rail section.   I've used Peco 55 since the 90s.  The only con is the slight step in the rail height if you try and join with code 80 track. This can be dealt with but I never mix them except at baseboard joints between scenic and fiddleyard boards. 

All good information above. My only contribution is that my layout is all Peco code 80, as that's all there was when I started. However I'd use code 55 if I was starting out again.

All my points are electrofrog. Wouldn't go near the insulated frog stuff.

I agree with the above, but would add..

There are many forms of baseboard now,

Premade kits of ply, I'm very impressed with them , they are light, dimensionally accurate and very easy to use.

Home made versions of the above often using a thin ply / foam / thin ply sandwich for support beams and legs.

The old sundela or equivalent board on a heavy frame.

Open frame thin ply, where there isn't a single board as a base but thin ply shaped verticals forming hill sides and valleys. With the track bed of ply laid across it, a skin of modrock or equivalent forming scenic areas.

My current favourite,
Extruded 2inch thick foam board, with the outer faces covered in thin ply to protect the foam.
More foam on top, which forms the hillsides, and valleys with the track bed between the two  at a chosen level. The foam covered in a thin skin of plaster in my case reinforced by J cloth and PVA.
Hollows can be cut in the foam with ply pieces glued in to hide point motors, wires fed through the foam ..

Great info, thanks everyone. Clarification on track/points: I have a lot of track and points from 30 years ago which for cost reasons would like to use again. But. On starting to clean said track/points I fear they have maybe gone to far. Cleaning fluid has little or no effect, small stiff wire brush gets them a lot better but a bit worried about damage   (can't find my Peco rubber.) and my planned layout will have about 16/18 points This is why I enquired about codes and frogs. More clarification: I will be DC/analogue, too old for DCC!!

It's settled, then. Looks like starting from scratch! I have a pile of ancient points in my garage in the same state.

Code 55, mate! 

Quote from: brakevan on October 22, 2022, 09:55:37 AM
Great info, thanks everyone. Clarification on track/points: I have a lot of track and points from 30 years ago which for cost reasons would like to use again. But. On starting to clean said track/points I fear they have maybe gone to far. Cleaning fluid has little or no effect, small stiff wire brush gets them a lot better but a bit worried about damage   (can't find my Peco rubber.) and my planned layout will have about 16/18 points This is why I enquired about codes and frogs. More clarification: I will be DC/analogue, too old for DCC!!

I think you would be wise to use new track.  Using old track might seem to bring certain economies, but it might also bring a degree of unreliable running.  And I can think of nothing so discouraging for a model railway than that.  Please forgive me if someone has mentioned this before in your thread (I didn't see it, but might have missed it) but Kato 'Unitrack' is excellent and very popular.  Although at present I favour Peco track, I have used Kato in the past with every satisfaction. 

With best wishes.

John

My layout was built with Code 55 but I'm currently building a club layout in Code 80 (the track had been purchased before I got involved). Putting the look of it to one side, Code 80 is much easier to cut sleepers and to cut away bits of the track bed for soldering on droppers. However, with flex track you have to be very careful with curves because the rails will pop out of the chairs very easily wheras you can pretty much do what you want with Code 55. So, in laying it there are pros and cons but on balance I'd choose Code 55. Nevertheless if you are planning on reusing old stock to match up with then you'd be  fine with Code 80.   If you are going to buy all new then give some serious consideration to dcc. Code 55 with Unifrog points is a great match for dcc and dcc opens up a whole new world of possibilities.

Sundeala is very much still available and can be found in most schools as pin board backing. It's not really fashionable now for baseboards for several good reasons. I agree with previous suggestions that 9mm ply is ideal with a good, well constructed, frame. You don't really need to worry about track underlay with N gauge although many people still put down cork. Design your track layout before you build your frame to ensure your cross battens don't run where you want yo install point motors.

Take a look at the Dapol Easi-Couple system which uses NEM magnetic couplings and a magnet mounted in the track. They're quite good.

Above all, enjoy building your new layout and be adventurous trying out new things. 

To answer your question no. 4 - I recommend the Dapol Easifit coupling system. The couplings themselves are less obtrusive than the default "Rapido" style couplings, and they can be uncoupled reliably by magnets. Although the default magnets are visible and look obtrusive, it is not too difficult to use rare earth magnets replacing the cork under the baseboard or even below baseboard servo mounted magnets to make them entirely invisible and even (in the latter case) remote switchable.

Dual gauge is do able if you build your own track


Rokun chassis are a cheap way of trying N6.5

Goodness me! Very teeny.