I've placed this here rather than the OMWB section as that is more for specific items.
We are frequently exhorted to do some modelling ourselves rather than buy RTR and I consider weathering part of modelling if done by the individual. I've had a stab at it once with non impressive results, although the starting point model wasn't up to much anyway IMHO.
I'd like to have another bash and wish to use acrylics as my last experience of enamels was donkey's years ago and I have a decent collection of acrylic paints to practice with. I do not have an airbrush and do not have the space for one. I'm also pretty useless at using rattle cans.
In general I'm talking rolling stock and maybe buildings here rather than locos, being far happier to pay for that rather than me balls up an expensive item.
Does the collective think it's better to use a large brush, say 1 inch, to apply washes/varnishes so as to do it in one pass rather than use a small brush and get brush stroke lines?
I have all sorts of smaller brushes, stipplers etc for small detail work.
Would a very weak solution of black, grey or brown make a good general dirtying wash and to tone down the plastic sheen of most models?
Any pointers would be most appreciated

Mick, I'm no expert at weathering but I do have a go (badly usually).
However, I wonder about acrylic and whether (no pun) it'll end up being too thick however much you dilute it.
I use Tamiya weathering sets :
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/model-paints/paints-glues/tamiya/weathering-equipment/
PS , I've no allegiance to this company, it's just the first one to pop up.
Here's a photo of one of my Class 33s which I've done a while back :

Hope this helps, if only a bit.
Cheers
Martin

Mick,
have you thought of / tried these ?

https://www.hattons.co.uk/stocklist/1000546/1000594/1000811/0/humbrol_any_or_multiple_scales_weathering_mediums/prodlist.aspx

I've used them on wargames vehicles, weather then seal with matt varnish when happy with the result.

the advantage I find is that when should I make a mess of it, much easier to remove the powder than paint.

just a thought.

IIRC Tamiya also used to do small sets for specific tasks, ie mud, oil etc.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-Weathering-Pastels-Sticks-and-Sponges-All-Types/133520869506?epid=1537311053&hash=item1f1676c882:g:CRIAAOSw9TtfYhb3

Yes, use a broad brush.

It's perfectly possible to get a decent weathered finish without an airbrush.

A good starting point, particularly with rolling stock is with washes. Build up the layers slowly and with a range of shades. Remember that it's easier to add more than remove paint if you've homegrown far.

Follow what the prototype does - apply the wash to the bodyside then drag the paint downwards with the brush, replicating the effect if rain and gravity. Once you've got some paint on let it dry a little then take a clean dry brush and wipe off most of what you've just added. You're aiming to replicate the grime being washed off.

Start on some vans or wooden bodied opens before experimenting with rust effects.

Steven B

Thanks for the replies so far. I've used these to decent effect by dry brushing/stippling.......




It was more the overall washes I was keen on and @Steven B has given me some hints. I can use sites like Paul Bartlett's to get weathering ideas from.
@port perran Your class 33 looks very good indeed but I won't be tackling locos until I'm happy with something less expensive!!

The unimpressive effort referred to in the OP was when I took this.......

https://shop.morris-models.co.uk/dapol-2f-038-016-20ton-steel-mineral-wagon-gwr-33259-weathered-9266-p.asp

and turned them into this................



I think I went a bit OTT

I think you've done well there - it's certainly looking a lot better than the factory weathered version you started with. The lighter orange colours could do with toning down. Try taking some of the darker brown shade you've used and stippling it on from an almost dry brush just to tale some of the brightness out.

Likewise, washes of darker colours will take the edge off the bright rush colour on the underframe.

Here's a couple of my attempts on some Parkwood (now Peco) wagon kits. Main body colour was brush painted on before transfers applied & then varnished. The body and interior were then weathered with washes of mucky blacks with enamels thinned with white spirit. I'll see if I can find any more done in a similar way.






I don't believe there's a one-stop approach to weathering. Airbrushes, dry brushing, wipe on/wipe off, washes and powders all have their place and need to be used in combination to get the best effects.

Steven B.

Quote from: Newportnobby on January 31, 2021, 03:12:02 PM
Thanks for the replies so far. I've used these to decent effect by dry brushing/stippling.......




It was more the overall washes I was keen on and @Steven B has given me some hints. I can use sites like Paul Bartlett's to get weathering ideas from.
@port perran Your class 33 looks very good indeed but I won't be tackling locos until I'm happy with something less expensive!!

The unimpressive effort referred to in the OP was when I took this.......

https://shop.morris-models.co.uk/dapol-2f-038-016-20ton-steel-mineral-wagon-gwr-33259-weathered-9266-p.asp

and turned them into this................



I think I went a bit OTT

They look good Mick @Newportnobby  I use a brown frame dirt colour for the underframes rather than the rusty colour you have there, I use an airbrush but you could try it using a paintbrush.

Cheers, Stu

@mk1gtstu Thanks, Stu. Can I ask if you can recommend an acrylic 'frame dirt' paint and what would you use for a general grime wash please?

I use Railmatch frame dirt enamel but I believe they also do it in acrylic. I use enamels as I've always had good results with them. As for washes, either a very dark grey or matt black thinned with white spirit (again for enamels)

Cheers, Stu

Fading's another effect (caused by actual weather!) to consider along with dirt and corrosion.



This wagon was black. A couple of coats of thinned white acrylic all over, then some Games Workshop Sepia wash over chassis and metalwork.

Mike

As well as powders, Humbrol also do coloured washes for weathering, but these are enamel based.

I mix the bottle thoroughly, partly fill a decent sized brush, dab on tissue to remove most of the colour, then paint on; if it goes on too thickly or not where you want it, wash off or thin immediately with white spirit. Various colour washes are available, I generally use blue/grey wash and sand. The blue/grey wash is quite effective in getting the black 'dirt' between planks of wagons.

I use Railmatch or Phoenix weathered black instead of 'black'; they are both slightly greyish to give an indication of weathering. Alternatively, Revell 'anthracite' is slightly different  to a true black. A thin wash of this will make a difference over factory finish black.

I use a thin wash of track colour for underframes.

Various companies do shades of 'rust'; I've been using Town and Country Scenics 'Rust-it'. It is water based, so can be thinned once applied, but it dries quickly and so any correction needs doing immediately. It comes in two shades.

As ever, try various methods and products to see what works for yourself, but practice on less valuable items rather than a brand new loco.

Martyn

Thanks again, Chaps.
I've no intention of causing GBH to a loco but have ordered this set to help have a crack at some cheap wagons (yes, I still have some, Mr. Farish )
https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/railmatch-acrylic-steam-loco-weathering-pack/

So far only one person has agreed it's better to use a broad brush in one pass than a small one with several passes. I've found that to leave brush strokes even with diluted paint.
Comments, anyone?

Nobby - if of interest I've got so many "nearly but not quite" 3D printed body shells I was thinking of seeing if they were of use as testers for this sort of thing. Postage cost only. They're all unpainted (and modern prototypes), but could be of use to you (or anyone else!).

I like powders, they're very forgiving, as has been said. I've got the Noch set, which cover the obvious eventualities. I do find they're better for highlighting bits, rather than an overall wash, although can be used for that purpose too.

That looks great, Mike. Have made a note of your approach.

Quote from: Newportnobby on February 01, 2021, 12:39:20 PM
So far only one person has agreed it's better to use a broad brush in one pass than a small one with several passes. I've found that to leave brush strokes even with diluted paint.
Comments, anyone?

To apply an overall wash, I basically douse the model  using a medium sized brush. No brushing as such. Squeeze the brush out on a tissue, then dab its tip into any excess pooling to soak that up. Keep the washes very thin and build up several coats.

Mike