Quote from: bwj on October 16, 2025, 01:54:43 PMA repair job on [the bogie]  had been botched in my view and the miniscule holes in which the axles sit had been ground out/enlarged, so replacement the only option in the end!

Depends how badly the axlebox pinpoint recesses have been reamed out?  Usually to free up a stiff wheelset only requires the very slightness of reaming (sometimes just giving the sideframes a squeeze while turning the wheels is enough). If someone's managed to go too deep and ruin the recesses, a possible option may be to drill out further and fit brass axle bearing cups like these

https://peco-uk.com/products/brass-bearing-cups

Thanks @ntpntpntp

the new bogies weren't especially expensive and were a guaranteed fit - now installed although still have a problem with one of the retaining springs flying free, which as advised I've posted in a unique thread!

Definitely sounds like someone's fiddled with your 350 then, they do have couplings at the outer ends, bogie mounted long shank NEMs; there's literally a photo of one you've posted above.

The motor bogie also has an NEM pocket. The other 5 bogies do not have couplings at all, they use body-mounted kinematic mounts per the spring you've lost.

I have all stock apart from my Pendolino now running well (still not sure whether to take the advice here and remove the traction tyres that were reinstalled during a very poor repair job!).

Moving on to the next step of securing the Kato track - intending to use a 2mm drill bit in the pre-drilled holes under the Kato track and track pins unless there is any contrary advice?

... and next does anyone have any good advice on a book, rather than a YouTube, with a comprehensive guide to scenery/landscape modelling?

My intention if guided wisely is
- to have a platform right against the backboard with a printed station and city dioroma or low relief buildings
- to make the bottom left sidings into a passenger train sidings and the top right sidings into a freight and container yard
- to model a small village as seen top left with a church and road running through the middle of the layout (but how to curtail or bridge the road when it meets the tracks?)
- to create a small tunnelled section on the lower right perhaps also incorporating the elevated line (but a tunnel above a tunnel might look silly or just a bit Swiss?!)

An alternative to screwing down the track could  be to use double-side tape.  I know some people have used that method. It needs to be a good bond to ensure the rail head is aligned accurately both vertically and horizontally, as one problem with Unitrack is the joiners can be quite loose and result in steps in the rail top.

There are several model railway publications out there that touch on or focus on scenery. Google will find them for you.  Not many focus on N gauge, but most of the principles are the same. I don't think I've got anything particular on my shelf that stands out as a "must have", I don't tend to refer to modelling books that much. Mostly my library is more about books on areas I'd like to model, with inspiration photos to draw on for modelling ideas. 

I do have a copy of "The Professional Approach to Model Railways" which I bought back in the 80s and enjoyed as a general modelling book (not just scenery).   You can find used copies for less than £5

thanks @ntpntpntp

I was thinking of tacking the track (rather than tape) after installing feeders to all of the weak pickup spots, and soldering and metal filing any remaining weak joints. There is a pretty constant temp in the location so expansion/contraction may not be a huge problem with just a few soldered rail joints?

I dislike pins, they leave unsightly holes in the track and pin heads sticking out. I've used both glue and double sided tape on Kato track to good effect previously. Don't file the railhead will you? It'll be a magnet for dirt and poor running.

Do not file the rail head it ruins the surface and introduces more problem than it solves.  I wouldn't recommend soldering rail joints either.   

If necessary you can remove the Unijoiners and use standard fishplates to get a more stable joint.  Peco joiners will fit the Kato rail.  That's probably what I would do if constructing a more permanent layout with Unitrack.

Quote from: bwj on Yesterday at 05:03:30 PM... and next does anyone have any good advice on a book, rather than a YouTube, with a comprehensive guide to scenery/landscape modelling?

There's a Woodland Scenics book which I found very useful when I was starting out ... "The Complete Guide to Model Scenery".

thanks all

I don't want to be contrary but I have seen other advice about filing Kato track - a nanometer difference in height can cause derailments - the suggestion is to very,very, very gently file the difference in height between track joints that can arise because the underlayling board is not always 100% perfectly flat.

I've tried it with some success on a couple of joints but I'm not going to ignore good advice either!

 
   Just a comparison from a fellow very happy "Kato" user.
  I have never had the need to even consider filing the track, slow steady laying & then checking each join with a finger rub.
  Also the "Unjoiners" very rarely fail even on temporary layouts.
  This is my personal opinion from over 10 years use. Enjoy your trains.
    stay safe regards Derek

Regarding scenery, there have been a zillion books about it over the years, however the WS one suggested by @LASteve is probably a good starter.

Quote from: bwj on Yesterday at 10:03:32 PMI don't want to be contrary but I have seen other advice about filing Kato track - a nanometer difference in height can cause derailments - the suggestion is to very,very, very gently file the difference in height between track joints that can arise because the underlayling board is not always 100% perfectly flat.

The problem is the looseness of the Unijoiners allows the track sections not to sit perfectly flat when joined together. Ensure the sections are firmly and accurately secured to the board, or use alternative joiners as I suggested, and you won't get the "steps" in the rail joints. Filing the rail head is NOT the answer.

When I've had temporary Unitrack test tracks plugged together on the table I've had joints so bad that low hanging loco brake shoes or guard irons have caught on the rail joints.

It's a trade-off: having a track system designed for rapid and repeated assembly/ disassembly is naturally going to involve a little bit more "play" in joints every time, compared to something like Peco which creates good joints at first but repeated fiddling will loosen the joiners over time.   I'll use Unitrack for temporary setups but prefer Peco for permanent layouts.

+1 for NOT filing track (unless you want problems)

..not filing .... ok agreed!