Hi Senza, welcome.

I think Chris m makes a vital point...

Quote from: Chris m on December 27, 2015, 07:34:02 AM
It all depends on what sort of railway you want. I have built a complete branch line in 44" by 27" which keeps me very occupied when operating it but it can't run big locos or long trains. A double track oval would allow main line trains but less operating interest. I would go for the maximum depth you can.

First thing though - do you want to run trains round and round or have more operation interest or do more shunting? Some folks find trains going round and round great and others find it boring, likewise with shunting layouts; its all down to individuals. Working out what you want to do is key to designing a layout and then working out how much space you need. I recommend having a look at layouts in the model press or going to a few exhibitions before starting building a layout.

For me, it is the building and modeling and watching the trains drive themselves round a computer controlled roundy-roundy layout.

For others, driving the train yourself with a hand control is desirable. And many like to shunt wagons.

I think it is important just to picture the possible ways of running trains and then aim for that kind of track plan... Roundy-roundy, end-to-end with big terminus station or little branch line, or loco depot or marshalling yard.

It sounds like you are planning a roundy-roundy (or tail-chaser), and you can be in charge of the loco stopping at the station at the controls with DC (analogue) or DCC (digital). You can then have sidings in the middle for shunting too. Is that what you have in mind? If so, the extra 6" each way would be advisable.

I think 2' is tight if you are going for the oval for continuous running, and the extra 6" depth would be important to maximize the curve radius.

But if you go for an end-to-end the 2' deep could be plenty, even for a decent-sized terminus, but you might prefer to add 6" to the length in that case.

But in the end, it's important to balance that with the workshop space if you will then feel cramped... My layout leaves me no room in my den to put up my easel and paint!

Is there a way you could hinge the layout and store it upright when you want that space... It seems like 2'6" would be relatively easy to push into the vertical against the wall if hinged on the long side? Just a thought.

Hi again all,

I did have in mind a double oval a shunting area in the middle,but for now will just get to grips with using the set and adding some track, just get a general idea of things before committing to a permanent layout.

As others have suggested; I will do a bit of research and no doubt ask lots of questions (sorry  ) before getting overly involved with a fixed layout.

I did however have a rethink about available space today and managed to build and fit the baseboard in my shed, I have ended up with a board size of 77" x 32", hopefully it will be enough for my initial ideas, I guess beggars can't be choosers so have just gone with the maximum space I have available at this time and fingers crossed it will be enough.

Thanks for your help everyone, Senza

77" x 32" is no bad size, actually.
Please don't be tempted to fill it with track though. I'd suggest using it to practice scenic techniques, soldering etc so that you can hone your skills and end up with a proper 'trains running through the landscape' layout.

I have had to make it hinged to give me workshop space when needed, I have used slip pin hinges so that I can remove the base board should I need to do extended work underneath.

It was important to be able to retain my leather chair as it is where I sit and dink my beer in peace 



Senza

Looks good.
I particularly like the idea of the leather chair 

How well organised are you!?
I have 'stuff' strewn all over the place

Yes far too organised I am, it can be a real pain at times 

You mentioned in an earlier post about Kato Unitrak, would you (or anyone else) be able to recommend a track pack that that would go well with my Graham Farish Cornish Riviera DCC Trainset, or would it be best to buy individual pieces of track as required?

As I say; complete novice here, so just trying to learn the different aspects with no particular layout in mind apart from an inkling that I would like a double oval with some shunting area in the middle and maybe a siding on the front edge... oh and 1960's spring to mind as I get all nostalgic over ITV's Heartbeat.

There I think that last sentence should prove beyond doubt my total ignorance of all things of the rail nature 

Senza

As you have the GF set then personally, I'd avoid the Kato track and go for Peco.
1060s is a great period to model (plenty of us on here have chosen that period) as it allows you to run both steam and diesel locmotives.

Quote from: port perran on December 28, 2015, 05:17:54 PM
As you have the GF set then personally, I'd avoid the Kato track and go for Peco.
1060s is a great period to model (plenty of us on here have chosen that period) as it allows you to run both steam and diesel locmotives.

......and you can have a little cameo of the Norman conquests!   

Cheers  Jon 

   Oh yeah! 

Osbornes and TrainTrax both sell Kato starter packs - you could start with a loop of track and a couple of points and. Some straights for sidings.

Osbornes sell Dapol / Kato sets, so you do not need to use Peco.

Ring them up and have a chat re suggested packs ( 195x81 cm baseboard)

Here are some sample plans

http://www.katousa.com/track-plans/n-plans.html

http://www.osbornsmodels.com/kato-unitrack-572-c.asp

http://www.traintrax.co.uk/unitrack-gauge-unitrack-track-sets-c-28_1.html

Suitable track packs would be ( no PSU included as you are DCC)

V3 yard switching set ( inc 3 points)

V16 double track oval ( with banked curves)
(Add a straight and a crossover to link the ovals)

As mentioned previously, track planner s/w may help you ( they come with Peco / Kato track libraries)

http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthread.php?35383-What-track-planning-software-do-you-guys-use-Using-Kato

Great stuff!

Many thanks for all your help, I know it must be a tad annoying when a newbie like myself pops up asking questions that have been asked a zillion times before, but when you know as little as I do about the subject you haven't even got a clue what search terms to use to get started.

Cheers, Senza

Quote from: Senza on December 29, 2015, 08:28:33 AM
Great stuff!

Many thanks for all your help, I know it must be a tad annoying when a newbie like myself pops up asking questions that have been asked a zillion times before, but when you know as little as I do about the subject you haven't even got a clue what search terms to use to get started.

Cheers, Senza

Please don't think that way We all started out as newbies and this forum is exactly the place to come for information so ask away. Let's face it - as newbies become more experienced they may find different ways to do things so everyone's knowledge grows.

Quote from: port perran on December 28, 2015, 08:55:02 AM
Looks good.
I particularly like the idea of the leather chair 

The leather chair? I particularly like the idea of a workbench that neat! 

Cool! 

Quote from: Railwaygun on December 29, 2015, 03:08:09 AM

Suitable track packs would be ( no PSU included as you are DCC)

V3 yard switching set ( inc 3 points)

V16 double track oval ( with banked curves)
(Add a straight and a crossover to link the ovals)

May I just ask a couple of questions that have arisen from the above reply;

I don't quite understand the "(no PSU included as you are DCC)" could someone expand upon this a little for me? Quite right the set I have bought is DCC but does that mean I only need one PSU, which is included in my DCC kit?

Could someone give me an example of the Unitrack items I would need to link the two ovals, i.e. track, switches, motors etc.?

So much too learn 

Still on the upside I have got a coat if primer/undercoat on that baseboard today 

Cheers, Senza