Latest "N" Gauge Journal 5/13 and Maintenance article?

Started by petercharlesfagg, October 23, 2013, 05:15:34 PM

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Calnefoxile

Quote from: H on October 23, 2013, 07:37:02 PM

Yep, I'd agree with that - never get oil on the commutator is the usual wisdom and recommendation.

AFAIA the carbon brushes effectively polish the commutator and keep it clean and the only maintenance is to occasionally very carefully clean the gaps between the segments to remove any build up of carbon or dirt deposits.

H.

Yep another agreement here, never oil the commutator.

I do clean the commutators on my locos, but I use IPA (and not the beer!!) on the end of a cotton bud, as it evaporates very quickly. I also clean between the plates very gently with a cocktail stick.

Then, I very gently wipe the end of brushes flat on a paper towel, just to take the curve off of them. This also cleans away any loose carbon from the end.

Then reassemble and test run, before putting the body back on  :D :D

And Roberts your fathers brother....

Regards

Neal.

CarriageShed

Quote from: Calnefoxile on October 23, 2013, 09:06:08 PM
...And Roberts your fathers brother....

Nah. Robert was my brother, not my father's.  :P  But here's the newbie question: why do you need a meter?

keithfre

Quote from: petercharlesfagg on October 23, 2013, 06:18:18 PM
Thankyou, is it likely that your Voltcraft has been updated to this one?

http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/122999?insert=89
Looks pretty similar to mine, which as the model number suggests is between that one and the VC 130.


mr bachmann

back to the multi-meter there is only one worth using thats a AVO , if you are looking for a cheaper one invest in a KYORITSU ...


mr bachmann

keithfre

Quote from: mr bachmann on October 24, 2013, 04:13:12 PM
if you are looking for a cheaper one invest in a KYORITSU ...
Cheaper? the cheapest on conrad is 185 euros - surely total overkill for our purposes!

oscar

Did nobody watch the Labelle video? At 5 minutes on he says don't use petroleum based oil on the commy, but the Labelle oil is fine. No. 107 for OO and 108 for N gauge and smaller.

4x2

Maplins have some good quality and cheap meters starting from £20 - more than enough for hobby work, I also use mine for automotive testing and is lasting very well and is still on it's original battery...

I have no connection with Maplins, just a happy customer sharing a good product...

http://www.maplin.co.uk/precision-gold-pg017-digital-multimeter-4407

I don't feel that fancy oils and cleaners are necessary these days, I just wipe gears etc clean with a lint free cloth, for electrical contacts I have a big bottle of 'old spice' aftershave (thanks Nan !) that I use and has proven to be a great cleaner that doesn't smell too bad....  :D

As for oil - I use 'Lubrication oil' by Lychett Manor Models and it's a good general purpose oil, works great with dapol locos as it's not too thick, and doesn't appear to evaporate.

Cleaning the comm, I use a scrap of plastikard to clean out the gaps, but that's it. It's really tempting to clean the comm (assuming it's removed from the motor) buy using a bit of cloth and rotating the comm - DON'T ! You'll rip off the coil connections, I know - I did it ! (many moons ago) :doh:
If it's got rails... you have my full, undivided attention - Steam, diesel and electric, 'tis all good !

Mike

RussellH

Hi Guys,

AVO - No - much as it was a good (only) meter in its time its easily outclassed by modern DMM's. Its also got a nasty habit of messing up some semiconductors & conductive plastics due to its fairly high powered ohms range so just be careful with it if you insist on using an antique like that (and don’t drop it cause they don’t bounce). For what we do an expensive meter is not required BUT If you feel you need to make an investment then one of the best meters is the fluke 87 (£50+on ebay second hand). Everyone's got their own preference but it by far the most common where I work.

Meanwhile there are loads of cheap DMMs to choose from - just make sure its auto ranging - saves alot of messing around.

Commutators stay dry - no oil - carbon is self lubing. Adding oil grease or anything like that just makes all the carbon dust into a sticky paste with all the drag that brings. Clean the comm with pure alcohol or fully evaporating solvent. If you give it a polish while running with a blunt cocktail stick dipped in solvent you can hear the difference.

Also a thumbs up for the careful flattening of the brush face prior to refitting - more noticeable on minitrix with directional running issues.

Regards
Russ
Repairs - not everything has to be sent away - you can fix most thing's yourself. Ask and help will be provided.

Waiting for the RTR version? - why not try a kit?

My layout, Bridgebury Gate now has its own website...
www.bridgeburygate.com

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