Latest "N" Gauge Journal 5/13 and Maintenance article?

[petercharlesfagg]

Friends,
The article entitled "Simple Loco Maintenance" (Pages 28-30) is both instructive and interesting but....................

The author expects everyone to know how to use a meter, (Quote) "using a meter set for a continuity reading." (Unquote)  Continuity reading? 

Since there are many and varied testers on the market, I can understand that being specific is difficult, but is there a cheap amateur meter that incorporates this "Continuity setting" as standard and can be easily understood by the lay person or in my case, a slow learner!

Secondly, he refers to using "Teflon Grease", OK but which one, I have just been looking through a search on Ebay and the results could be anything from propeller shaft lubricant to front fork lubricant, is there any specific marque that you would recommend?

Your thoughts would be appreciated, Peter.

[RussellH]

Hi Peter

Continuity = low ohms range (typically less than 100ohms). Hes assuming that we all know how to use a meter but really for basic maintenance you dont really need one.

I thought there was a part that said oil the commutator - did anyone else read this the same way? Thats a definite no no.

Interesting though.

Regards
Russ

[Mike W]

Hi Peter,

I think by continuity reading, it just means getting a continuous reading that the meter is always registering some current. At least, that's the way I read it.

[petercharlesfagg]

Hi Peter
I thought there was a part that said oil the commutator - did anyone else read this the same way? Thats a definite no no.

Regards
Russ

Yes on page 29 I quote, "Utilising Peco Electrolube, with an almost dry cotton bud (Squeeze the bud dry in a tissue) and avoiding the motor wires, oil the commutator" unquote.

I felt that there would be virtually nothing left top apply using that method if anything at all?

Peter.

[keithfre]

Yes on page 29 I quote, "Utilising Peco Electrolube, with an almost dry cotton bud (Squeeze the bud dry in a tissue) and avoiding the motor wires, oil the commutator" unquote.

I did that once and the loco almost stopped running. I reckon the commutator should only be cleaned (and then only if necessary).

[keithfre]

The author expects everyone to know how to use a meter, (Quote) "using a meter set for a continuity reading." (Unquote)  Continuity reading? 

He means a reading that tests whether there is a closed circuit (electrical continuity) or an open circuit/high resistance. I have an old analogue multimeter that has a Buzz setting (it buzzes if the circuit is closed), which is handy as you don't need to watch two things at once (your probes and the meter). Neither of the digital multimeters I've had had this feature (which is not to say there aren't any that do).

As Mike says, you can use the lowest resistance range. As to which digital multimeter, a cheap one will do. I have the cheapest Voltcraft available at the time (VC 120) and have found it satisfactory so far.

[keithfre]

I notice he warns against getting oil on the carbon brushes. But they are in contact with the commutator, so if you oil that the oil will surely get onto the brushes.

[petercharlesfagg]

The author expects everyone to know how to use a meter, (Quote) "using a meter set for a continuity reading." (Unquote)  Continuity reading? 

He means a reading that tests whether there is a closed circuit (electrical continuity) or an open circuit/high resistance. I have an old analogue multimeter that has a Buzz setting (it buzzes if the circuit is closed), which is handy as you don't need to watch two things at once (your probes and the meter). Neither of the digital multimeters I've had had this feature (which is not to say there aren't any that do).

As Mike says, you can use the lowest resistance range. As to which digital multimeter, a cheap one will do. I have the cheapest Voltcraft available at the time (VC 120) and have found it satisfactory so far.

Thankyou, is it likely that your Voltcraft has been updated to this one?

http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/122999?insert=89

Regards, Peter.

[oscar]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQkU18WmuWw

You can use this on commutators!

[EtchedPixels]

I notice he warns against getting oil on the carbon brushes. But they are in contact with the commutator, so if you oil that the oil will surely get onto the brushes.

Never oil the commutator. That is what I was told and specifically confirmed. I think the journal perhaps needs to double check with Bachmann and/or BRob Russell and print an urgent correction on that point if need be.

The hydraulics article also contains a mistake, but a rather more harmless one ;-). The original warships were never "class 41" they were scrapped before TOPS classes were assigned. The only "class 41" was the prototype HST.

Alan

[MikeDunn]

The author expects everyone to know how to use a meter, (Quote) "using a meter set for a continuity reading." (Unquote)  Continuity reading? 

He means a reading that tests whether there is a closed circuit (electrical continuity) or an open circuit/high resistance. I have an old analogue multimeter that has a Buzz setting (it buzzes if the circuit is closed), which is handy as you don't need to watch two things at once (your probes and the meter). Neither of the digital multimeters I've had had this feature (which is not to say there aren't any that do).

My Maplins one does ... or you can make one yourself.  I did for those times I didn't want to mess around with a multimeter.  The cost is very little.

You need :

• Project box (something like Maplins LH14Q)
• PP3 battery
• PP3 clip (a Maplins NE19V)
• a buzzer (Maplins KU58N)
• 5A terminal blocks
• sticky pads
• wire
• croc clips

Take off 3 of the terminal blocks, and put the buzzer into the outer ones.  On the other side of the block, fit in the wires from the battery clip.  Put a length of wire into the free terminal, and another into the centre.  If you clip in the battery, you should be able to touch the free ends & get a sound.

Fit the wires through the case (make the holes large enough) and make another hole where the buzzer will be.  Use the sticky pads to fit the terminal block and battery, and close up.  Attach the croc clips to the free ends.

I think I have 6' lengths of wire on mine; cost was under a tenner.

Mike

[H]

I notice he warns against getting oil on the carbon brushes. But they are in contact with the commutator, so if you oil that the oil will surely get onto the brushes.

Never oil the commutator. That is what I was told and specifically confirmed.

Yep, I'd agree with that - never get oil on the commutator is the usual wisdom and recommendation.

AFAIA the carbon brushes effectively polish the commutator and keep it clean and the only maintenance is to occasionally very carefully clean the gaps between the segments to remove any build up of carbon or dirt deposits.

H.

[NeMo]

Alan, it's not a mistake. The D600 series was allocated TOPS classification 41, but never carried them. Since the locos were withdrawn in 1967, and renumbering didn't actually happen until after 1970 (if I recall correctly) this allocation was a paper exercise at best; indeed, one might speculate why they even bothered. But even if it was a theoretical designation, it was, I believe, an official one, and is used in books on the diesel hydraulics that I have to hand (e.g., Lewis' "The Western's Hydraulics").

A similar issue holds for the D800 series locos, which were classes 42 and 43; not only did they never carry these numbers, but 43 was re-used for the production series HSTs power cars.

Cheers, NeMo

The hydraulics article also contains a mistake, but a rather more harmless one ;-). The original warships were never "class 41" they were scrapped before TOPS classes were assigned. The only "class 41" was the prototype HST.
Alan

[EtchedPixels]

Alan, it's not a mistake. The D600 series was allocated TOPS classification 41

Class 41 was left for them in the initial proposed TOPS codes (as was 32 for what became 31/1 and a few others like that). They were never given or assigned that TOPS code. They were gone before TOPS codes were assigned. No British Rail document refers to them as class 41 - its a fiction of a couple of books that gets perpetrated on and on.

Alan (pedanticus maximus)

[NeMo]

I stand corrected!

Cheers, NeMo