Improving Model Photographs Using Image Stacking Software

[icairns]

One technique for improving model photos is to use an image stacking software that produces a composite final image from many different images of the same subject but where each individual photo is focused on a different area of the subject. 

The image stacking software merges all of the individual photos to produce a photo where everything is in focus.  This is particularly useful when, say, taking a three-quarter view of a long train where the loco is usually in focus but the rest of the train begins to be out of focus at some point.

I have used three different image stacking software: Affinity Photo, Zerene Stacker, and CombineZP (which is free). 

I am interested in hearing of other people's experiences using image stacking software especially regarding the number of photos taken to produce a satisfactory final image as there seems to be different opinions. 
For example, I know that there have been at least three articles in the N Gauge Society Journal over the years on this subject.

(1) In the 2/18 NGS Journal, Graham Hedges states that he takes about 12 photos and uses Zerene Stacker.

(2) In the 2/19 NGS Journal, Kevin Franklin states that he takes 15-40 photos and uses Zerene Stacker.

(3) In the 5/20 NGS Journal, Ian Skinner states that most of his shots have 6-10 focus points and he uses Affinity Photo.

I am currently using Affinity Photo for image stacking.  For each photo, I take one that slightly overlaps the focus area of the previous one.  I had always thought that I took about 40-50 photos for each image stack but I took one yesterday and realized that I had taken 72 photos!

It can be quite time consuming to take a lot of photos for one final image.  I am going to experiment with taking fewer photos and see how that affects the final image.

In the interim, I would be interested to hear of other people's experiences with their chosen software and how many photos they take to make a satisfactory final image.

Ian

P.S. There is a thread about image stacking here:  https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=52323.msg682643#msg682643

However, most of the discussion on that thread is around whether a complete scene should be in focus or not as it may offend the eye.  My thread/question is really directed at people that want a image to be completely in focus; what is their experience and how do they do it?

[lil chris]

There are a couple of guys on the forum using stacking that I know of. The one who seemed to have started it is Roger on his layout Wrenton, the photos look amazing because the layout looks amazing. Mike (Nbodger) also uses the technique on his layout Hillsden, he also posts some good pictures of his excellent layout. I am not sure what software they are using it may be Affinity. I keep meaning to try it on my layout, with my camera a Olympus OMD M5 11 you can do stacking on the camera. But I found out only with certain lenses which tend to be the expensive ones. I have not tried it yet even though I  have one lens that is compatible but it is a wide angle lens.

[Nbodger]

Ian,

Just to help kick your thread off with some brief thoughts

First, I would say that image stacking isn't just for a full frame in focus, yoy can be creative by having the main elements in focus and the remainder blurred. I often photograph the train and foreground in focus and the background out of focus.

The number of photographs you take depends on many things and no one answer is correct. The following all affect the number of photographs you need to take.

1 Amount of photograph you want in focus
2 Various angles and depths of field you a photographing
3 Angle of the camera in relation to subject
4 Distance from subject
5 F setting (depth of field) of camera

to name a few

I would think the maximum I take for Hillsden is probably 40 for the full frame in focus but this all depends on the issues named above, Hillsden can be quite difficult to photograph especially around the station with its station lamps, signals, people, seats, chimney pots etc all at differing focal points, the trick here is to set the camera further back, take a larger overall view and trim the final image, saving it at the size you want.

if I were taking a photograph of say just a locomotive at an angle, then I would take various shots along the body only usually between 7 and 14 and ignore the background as it's not important for the image I want to achieve.

Example for a full view of a scene that includes the backscene, if you are square on to it you only need one photograph to cover the backscene, if on the angle them multiple photographs will be required the number depending upon the F value taken at.

Mike H

[icairns]

Mike:

Thank you for your considered and informative reply.  I agree with everything you said.

One of my problems is, although I have a dedicated railway room, I struggle to get good, natural light into the room.  Therefore, I have to use floodlights and/or flash. 

I agree that it is not necessary (or even desired) to have the full frame in focus on a large, panoramic shot but I do like adjacent items to be in focus.  For example, when I take a 3/4 view of just a locomotive, I want both the front and rear of the loco to be in focus.

My layout is also somewhat difficult to photograph as it has walls on two of the four sides.  I tend to try and set up my shot close to what I am trying to achieve but I think I am going to set the camera further back and do more extensive cropping and see the results. 

Ian   

[Nbodger]

Ian,

Hillsden is also in a dedicated room with no daylight into the room, so all photographs are under artificial lighting. Generally the layout photographs are taken just using the layouts lights which consist of two rows of LED strips, occasionally the double strip room light is on, usually because I have forgot to turn it off.

I too are limited for access image stacking can generally only be done from the viewing side if the layout and other angles are usually single shots with a pocket camera.

Basically I never use flash or spotlights as these cast shadows and high density light to areas, I always use a long shutter speed.

[Bob G]

I am very interested in this thread, hence this post to keep me getting a news feed of new posts.

My old-fashioned preference has always been to take long exposure photos at f16, so I'm very interested to learn a new skill.

Bob

[Nbodger]

I am very interested in this thread, hence this post to keep me getting a news feed of new posts.

My old-fashioned preference has always been to take long exposure photos at f16, so I'm very interested to learn a new skill.

Bob

Yesterday evening I undertook a little photographic experiment to show the differences between single shot and multi shot image stacking. The intention was to produce a fully focused image

First, I produced a single shot image at F16 as per your current option, at ISO 100 and a 5 second shutter speed, resulting in the following photograph.



The focus point was in the middle of the image, however, at F16 the background remained blurred as did a section of the foreground particularly the right hand side.

Next, I took a single shot image at F29 the maximum my camera would allow, also ISO 100 and a 15 second shutter speed, photograph below



Again, the focus point was central, the background was better but still slightly out of focus and similarly part of the foreground.

And finally the following image was image stacked from 39 photographs take at F10, covering the whole of the picture without overlapping shots. The shutter speed depends upon the light for each individual shot taken, but where around 1.3 seconds.



This produced a much clearer image, now it does loose a little clarity at the top left corner, this could have been rectified by using manual focus in lieu of auto focus for one frame.

Hope you agree there is much more clarity in this final image, I will leave it to you to decide which is the better image judged on the basis of being in full focus.

Now a final shot, this shows the camera position in relation to the layout and also the lighting used which was the layouts lighting system of two strips of LED's



Inside the railway room

All of the layout photographs have been slightly cropped at the base of the photograph as this was out of focus on all images due to the camera being too close to the object for the camera to focus, to focus this part you would need to move the camera further away.

Also, the photographs have been posted at a reduced size and quality on the forum, the max file size is 370kb reduced from an original file size of 15.6 MB for the image stacked photograph.

The definition on the original 15.6 MB file is excellent, obviously far too big for the forum, if you want access to the originals then let me know and I will post a temporary link.

Remember to undertake an image for stacking you have to be able to change the focus point on your camera, not all cameras allow this, certainly my pocket camera doesn't.

Hope this is of some use

Mike H

[Bealman]

Excellent informative post, Mike. Thank you! 

I personally prefer some shots with background out of focus, but I'm a bit strange that way.

Your final pic looks very crisp and tidy to me!

(The station pic)

[Nbodger]

Excellent informative post, Mike. Thank you! 

I personally prefer some shots with background out of focus, but I'm a bit strange that way.

Your final pic looks very crisp and tidy to me!

(The station pic)

George,

I too prefer background out of focus, however the focus on the post was to show a full frame focused image, even with image stacking it is possible to achieve out of focus background as I frequently do in my Hillsden thread

[Bob G]

...even with image stacking it is possible to achieve out of focus background as I frequently do in my Hillsden thread

Also known as laziness 

[Bob G]

Seriously, I like the full focus effect, because if we were there for real, everything would be almost at infinity, focal length wise, and so we would see everything in full focus.

Nice explanation Mike. Now I just have to figure out how to do it.

Bob

[Nbodger]

Seriously, I like the full focus effect, because if we were there for real, everything would be almost at infinity, focal length wise, and so we would see everything in full focus.

Nice explanation Mike. Now I just have to figure out how to do it.

Bob

If you need help then you know where I am, even by Zoom if required.

...even with image stacking it is possible to achieve out of focus background as I frequently do in my Hillsden thread

Also known as laziness 

And I thought it was artistic interpretation 

Mike H

[Bob G]

Yet another thread spoilt by banter. Honestly.  and make up time.

[Aire Valley]

Great post and information, Mike. Your layout and subsequent images of it are really impressive. Clearly from the different examples, the 39 stacked images at F10 has delivered the best result for you. I would be interested to see how many stacks at F22 or F29 you need to achieve a similar depth of field as F10? Around 4-5?

I do a lot of engineering close ups in my profession and there are a few variables that can effect the results:

1. Depth of field is also effected by the focusing distance between the subject and the lens. The closer they are the less depth of field there is using the same settings as if positioned further away.

2. A greater distance and focal length will naturally compress the perspective of the scene.

3. A macro lens will allow a shorter minimal focusing distance between the subject and the lens. However, the closer you get, the more stacking is required to offset the reduced depth of focus from each exposure.

4. Use single point manual focus, if possible. There is far greater consistency and control.

5. Use a manual white balance (Daylight is around 5600K) so that all exposures maintain consistent. Auto white balance can fluctuate depending on the metering from individual focus points.

I think your lighting set up is brilliant and gives a nice, soft, even spread. Just like a bright, overcast day.

Cheers,

Tim

[Bealman]

Yet another thread spoilt by banter. Honestly.  and make up time.

I like banter! 

Anyway, there's some great stuff here inbetween the banter