Metal framed base board

[Talkingcars]

I have just started a portable N gauge layout. I know they are on the thin side but I am using 6mm thick 1200x600mm or 6mm by 300x1200mm as they suit my needs.

My quandary is the framing. Traditionally one would use timber, normally 2x1" but the boards will then get quite chunky, anything thinner will be less chunky but also less supportive.

Instead I am considering using 2mm steel strip and 2mm steel angle.
With inflated cost of timber the price difference has been eroded so cost isn't a concern.
I can source it locally so supply isn't a problem.
I can cut steel as easily as timber as I have the correct tools.
I can weld and have several welders so doing the fabrication isn't a problem.

The big question is Why shouldn't I?

[Newportnobby]

I can't think of any reason why not apart from personal injury e.g. catching your hand on 2mm steel rather than 1" timber. Would the steel be more likely to twist than wood, though?

[Talkingcars]

I can't think of any reason why not apart from personal injury e.g. catching your hand on 2mm steel rather than 1" timber. Would the steel be more likely to twist than wood, though?

I am used to taking sharp edges off my fabrications, I have done loads of bits for my various cars.

Using angle strips will prevent twisting.

[Bealman]

Sounds ok to me, and.... different.

Please post some pictures when you're done!

[AlexanderJesse]

Without having experimented that, but considering light and sturdy baseboard ideas myself:
I fear it might still flex the baseboard too much, especially in diagonal. And this flex could hurt the scenery, plastering,...

How do you want to drive turnouts? How do you want to route cabling?
I would check this and my impression is that you need  maybe 1/2 to 1 inch of below deck space to build. And therefor would recommend to consider a sub frame of 10x20mm around and below in a 150 to 300mm grid. If after building you the close the frame with a 3mm deck (screwed not glued) you could get a light but rigid base.

[joe cassidy]

How about some pics of your cars as well ?

[Dalteth]

No experience of it myself, but wouldn't the metal frame expand / contract more in hotter / colder weather than the wooden top piece and cause issues? 

Similar issues with trackwork expansion are apparent in loft / garage spaces so may be something to consider.

[Alcazar]

Would this be a solution:



These are 1000mm x 400mmx 12mm plywood modules, in this case for a fiddle yard. The sides are 100mm and the 6mm ply surface is screwed on top. Don't be put off by the end piece - it is standardized for my module group. On modules not requiring a flat surface I use the formers to support the track bed and contour the scenery.

My oldest modules are over 25 years old and have not warped.

Peter

[ntpntpntp]

Rather than the "traditional" approach of a flat top and framing, I use ply to create the sides of a "box" and leave the top open.  The track bed is supported by occasional cross beams and risers as needed. The sides of the box are cut and contoured to create interesting scenery.  The rest is filled in with polystyrene.  It's lighter, stronger, and the scenery can flow above and below track level for a more realistic layout.

[Talkingcars]

......Please post some pictures when you're done!

Will do.

[Talkingcars]

....How do you want to drive turnouts? How do you want to route cabling?.....

Defiantly something to consider.

[Talkingcars]

How about some pics of your cars as well ?

one day

[Talkingcars]

......but wouldn't the metal frame expand / contract more in hotter / colder weather than the wooden top piece.....

It will be in the house so should be fine.

[Talkingcars]

Would this be a solution:

Rather than the "traditional" approach of a flat top and framing, I use ply to create the sides of a "box" and leave the top open. ]

Both very good solutions but going in a different direction to me.

[AlexanderJesse]

....How do you want to drive turnouts? How do you want to route cabling?.....

Defiantly something to consider.

Instead of 10x20 wood bracing. A u-profile with 10x20 would also give you the installation space and the possibilty to close the bottom to protect the installation