Which model? - advice / opinions

tim-pelican · May 02, 2012, 01:24:14 PM

Hi all,

With my birthday approaching, my ever-patient wife is looking to buy me a new train. First applying Rule 1 (things I like the look of), and then reading some reviews, I've got a short-list, but I'd appreciate the collective wisdom of the forum on putting the following head-to-head.

All GraFar:

A1 - probably "Great Central" late BR green
B1 - "Oliver Bury" late BR black
101 - either 2- or 3-car in BR green
108 - 2-car BR green

Some considerations in the process:

My layout (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=3660.0) is fairly small, with R1 curves, set-track points and some inclines. (Yes, I know the arguments, but the space is what I've got.) Anything that's going to deal with that particularly well or badly?

On a second size consideration, the area I've put aside for the station will take 4 coaches and a loco max, possibly only 3 on one platform. Is one of the big steamers going to look flat-out ridiculous with such a short formation?

I currently have a class 24 and an 08, both in BR green, some maroon Mk 1s, and an assortment of small goods wagons. The intention is to stay in a late 50s (ish) theme, I don't have a particular geography in mind at the moment. I don't want to be overly prescriptive in what can and can't run (Rule 1!), but I'd be interested to try for a combination of trains that's at least a "could have happened", rather than a "WTF?"

Reliability and simple maintenance would be a plus. DCC-ready is a must. I'm currently looking to fit a decoder to the 08, but my tinkering skills are very much in their infancy, and I'd like to avoid too much taking a screwdriver to a brand new and fairly expensive model.

Or is there another model I've not considered that you really think I should, given those requirements?

Very interested in your comments - thanks in advance!

Karhedron · May 02, 2012, 02:46:01 PM

If using 1st radius curves you would probably be better off choosing one of the DMUs. 6-coupled steam engines are rather less tolerant of tight curves than bogie stock. The DMUs also have the advantage of offering a complete train in a box, no need to add extra coaches.

As to the choice between 108 and 101, that is pretty much up to you. The internal mechanisms are similar (if not identical) so it mainly comes down to which you like the look of better. It may be worth considering that the 101s were more numerous and widespread as they worked on pretty much every part of the rail network at one time or another. The 108s were mostly used in the north-east (although a handful migrated down to the Bletchley - Bedford line in later years).

Newportnobby · May 02, 2012, 03:54:15 PM

Although the B1 would not look out of place with 3 or 4 coaches, the fact you have 1st radius curves + set track points + inclines (maybe curved inclines??) would lead me to agree on the 101 or 108 being the choice

BobB · May 02, 2012, 04:56:15 PM

The dmu's would be my fist choice in your position, limited to two cars so that they do not fill the platform.

Both have essentially the same mechanism so that is not an issue. It comes down to appearance. I could not decide so got both.

Jack · May 02, 2012, 05:50:40 PM

Personally I'd go with the 101. I have a two car and a three car set, both fly up inclines without any problems. And like others have said, you get a complete train to play with, no extras needed.

Ollie3440 · May 02, 2012, 06:07:14 PM

Quote from: tim-pelican on May 02, 2012, 01:24:14 PM
All GraFar:

A1 - probably "Great Central" late BR green
B1 - "Oliver Bury" late BR black
101 - either 2- or 3-car in BR green
108 - 2-car BR green

A1 - I've got the Tornado version Farish did and i've had no problems what-so-ever. Runs faultlessly on DCC (Although i don't have any gradients to test it on) and during testing was happily running around with 8 Mk1's behind it.

B1 - My LNER Green one has shown the same results as Tornado, no problems at all and i'd say it was my best running Farish Steam loco.

DMU's - I have a pair of 108s and they are cracking little models. One is currently out of service but this is due to me being careless and it has a bit of ballast stuck in a gear.

So out of the ones you've listed i'd echo what's already been said and go for the DMU purely as it's a complete train and it will run better around sharp curves.

Other locos which you may consider are as follows:
Black 5
3MT
Forthcoming 4MT

The 5 and 3MT are brilliant locos (hence why i have 3 black 5s!) and both are DCC Ready. The new 4mt tank should be up to the same standard as the 3mt

Ollie

Ollie

tim-pelican · May 02, 2012, 08:35:53 PM

Thanks all so far, helpful info. Added to my lessons learned - if you want to run big steam locos, you need to plan a layout to deal with them! (Just don't let my wife read too many posts about "the next layout"

)

Ollie, one follow-up question for you:

Quote from: Ollie3440 on May 02, 2012, 06:07:14 PM
Other locos which you may consider are as follows:
Black 5
3MT
Forthcoming 4MT

Did you mean that these would be a good fit for the shorter trains I'm running, or were you including the tighter track also? As far as I can tell, these are all still 6-coupled - is there something different that would make them more suitable for R1?

Sorry if these are stupid questions, as you can tell I'm a long way from being familiar with all these different types of locos!

Ollie3440 · May 02, 2012, 08:57:36 PM

I was going along the lines of suitable for shorter trains but now that you mention it they should be fine on first radius curves, well the tanks engines for definite

Ollie

Donkey · May 02, 2012, 10:13:38 PM

Quote from: tim-pelican on May 02, 2012, 01:24:14 PM

All GraFar:

A1 - probably "Great Central" late BR green
B1 - "Oliver Bury" late BR black
101 - either 2- or 3-car in BR green
108 - 2-car BR green

I have the following BacFar:-
A1 Tornado - brilliant looker and performer. Handles inclines and finescale small points effortlessly.
B1 Oliver Bury - brilliant looker and performer. Handles inclines and finescale small points effortlessly.
101 DMU 2 car - brilliant looker and performer. Handles inclines and finescale small points effortlessly.

Good luck with whatever you decide

Marty

Irish Padre · May 02, 2012, 10:23:43 PM

I've got a 108, one of the first things I bought, and it's brilliant. You might also want to try a green 37, which runs round my R1 stuff well. I have an old-style 4MT and it's another great model for an R1 set-up.

Have you also thought about Union Mills models? They make cracking little locos which are designed to run on Setrack. Detail is pretty akin to 1950s Hornby-Dublo stuff but they are full of character and will pull anything you ask. There's also generally a wide range to choose from : a variety of 4-4-0, 0-6-0, and 0-8-0 styles. Have a look on eBay to give you an idea what they look like, or even search on this forum! I would recommend checking the prices before you buy off eBay though - you can sometimes save up to £20 by going direct to the manufacturer in the Isle of Man.

David

tim-pelican · May 06, 2012, 01:45:13 PM

Thanks again guys - the DMUs are going on the birthday wishlist ("pick one", not all three!). Hopefully the new 4MT will be out before TINGS, and I can find somewhere at the show to look at that and the 3MT up close. (I'm planning to have some spending money by then!)

Union Mills is intriguing, I will have to investigate further...

OwL · May 06, 2012, 01:56:00 PM

Personally I would go for the A1 in BR late crest green livery 'Great Central'.
Great model and no issues with this locomotive.

Sprintex · May 06, 2012, 02:05:31 PM

Another vote here for the 108, although if the 101 apparently has the same chassis then depends what you like the look of most. Still prefer the 108 though

I have two in blue/grey and not once have they ever given a spot of trouble. They happily go smoothly at any speed up a 1:30 incline that is also curved and has a set of points half way up - every model railway no-no in the book!

Paul

tim-pelican · May 06, 2012, 06:04:28 PM

Sorry, one last question - the 101 and the 108 both need two decoders for DCC, right, whether 2- or 3-car? And this is just standard decoders, presumably set to the same address?

Thanks,
Tim.

EtchedPixels · May 06, 2012, 06:41:27 PM

Quote from: tim-pelican on May 06, 2012, 06:04:28 PM
Sorry, one last question - the 101 and the 108 both need two decoders for DCC, right, whether 2- or 3-car? And this is just standard decoders, presumably set to the same address?

Thanks,
Tim.

Yes. Set to the same address but its useful sometimes to set them so the lights are on different functions - so you can turn front/rear off separately.As the trailing car is non motorised its a good place to use cheap decoders like the Bachmann one, rather than one with decent control.