Where are all the broken locos?

[Skyline2uk]

Re DCC supplies Grade 1-4 locos...

I had a quick look earlier and none appear to have photos of the loco in question. Has anybody purchased one from the site and / know if they would be prepared to supply a photo? The descriptions are all generic.

Thanks

Skyline2uk

[honestjudge]

I may have misunderstood the gist of this thread, but I miss bachman selling off their returned stock at the big shows like ally pally and tings, at vastly reduced prices.
I got a lot of very reasonable locos via this means. It just doesn't happen anymore.

[Rabbitaway]

Stevie

In my experience Dapol steam locos are an issue with regard to very early problems with tender wires and value gear

From new a A3 did one round of the layout and throw its value gear up near the piston, easily fixed because I could not be bothered sending it back, A4 throw its value gear after about three circuits and broke a tender wire, this one was not an easy fix so went back for replacement. The replacement had a broken tender wire out of the box. I have also replaced tender wires on a Britannia and B12.

I am an experienced n gauge modeller and know how to handle these models with care therefore not a mishandling issue

I  am very wary of Dapol steam locos as I expect them throw their value gear which is a difficult repair

[Stevie DC]

Rabbitaway,

It appears that you believe that my previous post was aimed at you. If so, my sincerest apologies as my ramblings truly weren't - I hadn't even read your post (slap wrist to me, as that is something that does annoy me!). My comment was solely based on my own experience of purchasing/acquiring broken locomotives and repairing them (mainly Dapol as they do more to cater to my 1930's LNER interests) as well as to note that, I too, have recently found that their are fewer of these "bargains" currently available.

Alternatively, if I have misinterpreted your last post then, again please accept my apologies.

[Rabbitaway]

Stevie

No offence taken, I was just pointing out my experience with Dapol steam locos, apologies if I caused any up-set 

I do still buy them when they are on special offer on the Dapol stand at shows or on their web site. I would be reluctant to pay full money for these due to their track record with me on reliability.

As a matter of interest have you successful fixed any valve gear with broken rods or rivets on your returned locos

Thanks   

[Stevie DC]

Rabbitaway,

No up-set at my end but I wanted to make sure I hadn't caused any offense - it is all too easy to be misunderstood on internet forums. 

My own broken purchases are driven more from a very restricted source of funds and I'd happily pay full price for a good one if I could afford it.

Re valve gear: No, I've not undertaken such a repair. The one locomotive that had a broken plastic rivet (purchased knowing the fault) received a new set of valve gear - once I'd sourced a spare! However, I have now untangled more than a few sets of both Dapol and Farish origin. However, I believe that Dr Al has some experience in such matters.

My personal pet hate is the little plastic pin that holds the expansion link in place on the Farish N class. If that breaks, the whole assembly is a usually a write-off.

[honk843]

At the recent Great Central show I bought a Grange from Dapol direct who use the same codes as DCC supplies. I paid £30 for a grade one loco (minor buff mark or scratch) and the only problem I can see is that the name plates appear to be worn. It runs fine...so far. A grade four model would for example have a major glue mark, be a non-runner or have major cosmetic issues.

I wonder if Bachman find it more cost effective to break returned locos for parts. Their repairs people may also find it awkward not having the bit they need for a particular repair. I also know that other traders complained bitterly to them about the practice of selling returned locos cheap.

N class valve gear; send it to Bob -BR Lines--he will fix this issue and although it costs it does give you back a loco which as you say is otherwise a write off.

[LASteve]

I find my Dapol Hymeks always sound like a bag of hammers, I have run mine in a bit and they quietened down some, but they're still pretty loud ( I still love them mind you!)

G.

Thanks, I think I might just have to run it a lot longer. I love the model, I don't want to give up on it.

[Bealman]

I'm a great fan of Hymeks, but don't own one. They are a most attractive loco, especially in two tone green livery.

However, I keep hearing about problems with the models.

[LASteve]

I'm a great fan of Hymeks, but don't own one. They are a most attractive loco, especially in two tone green livery.

However, I keep hearing about problems with the models.

I have them both in the two-tone livery. They look fantastic, the dummy is blameless, but the active one hurts my ears. Even SWMBO asks - what is wrong with that thing?

[Bealman]

Oh dear.... I'll just buy a dummy one, park it on a siding and just enjoy looking at it, then. 

[railsquid]

I have both powered and dummy versions, and the dummy one is certainly really quiet. 

The powered version is OK, well within the normal Dapol noise envelope. Mind you it was second-hand (I prefer to purchase my British locos second-hand from reputable sellers as it reduces the chances of it being a lemon fresh from the factory...)

[Bealman]

Must try that.... I must admit that buying a second hand loco is something I've never considered, ever. However, I know you specialise in it, Ian.

Maybe I should keep me eye out for a second hand Hymek! Might get lucky!

[Dr Al]

Re valve gear: No, I've not undertaken such a repair. The one locomotive that had a broken plastic rivet (purchased knowing the fault) received a new set of valve gear - once I'd sourced a spare! However, I have now untangled more than a few sets of both Dapol and Farish origin. However, I believe that Dr Al has some experience in such matters.

@Rabbitaway , as Steve says, valve gear is generally repairable. Often on the A3/A4 'dropped' gear is just that - it simply needs re-attached to the footplate and the assembly itself isn't damaged. I've repaired probably 15 odd like this.

More complex are repairs where rods are actually detached, either due to broken parts (plastic crosshead is the weakest part) or it's been amputated by a clumsy previous owner. Spare assemblies are available from time to time, and then it becomes a simple transplant task. Only awkwardness is winkling the new crosshead into the slidebars on the A3. It's much less common though and I've repaired probably 3 in this way.

Unlike Farish, the actual rods don't seem to want to easily take solder, so pin re-attachments can be a pain, which is where replacement assemblies are easier. The originals go in the spares box for potential use in future projects/scratchbuild as cannibalisation material.

Tender wires are fragile, generally at the solder joint between the wire and the 'eye'. The key is to avoid repetitive flexing resulting in metal fatigue in the wire at this point, and the method to achieve this is to angle them so they point inwards toward the central axis of the loco. The bending occurring as the loco goes round curves then occurs mostly in the wire centre over a larger length, avoiding the fatiguing that can otherwise occur when all the bending occurs at the joint pinch point. I always reset these wires now to this alignment.

Cheers,
Alan

[belstone]

Oh dear.  I just looked at the DCC Supplies listings for Dapol spares and now I want to buy the whole lot.  So many useful little parts    Meanwhile I have finally acquired a Farish N Class with a mark on the paintwork for substantially less than the cost of a new one.  This will provide a chassis for the K3 that I have been planning to build for ages.  Anyone want an N Class body and tender?

Richard