Dapol (re)announce HST Protype train - open for pre-orders

[Yet_Another]

Cheers, I thought that would be the case. This evening's task, find the spare decoders...

[Dr Al]

No they werent... and they were warm white incandescent not bright white

Under dcc they can be toned down

Presumably the LEDs could be changed to 'warm white' also.

Cheers,
Alan

[Dr Al]

I guess so if someone is that worried about it

Oh definitely, but it will depend on how much glue and suchlike Dapol have used to secure the PCBs - on normal HSTs they are ok, but stuff like 156s are horrible...

Cheers,
Alan

[Bob G]

Replacement HSDT prototype received and touch wood it works.
A bit stiff and wobbly but it has not been run in yet. Lets hope it loosens up. I quite like the bright lights.

Interesting the white and red lights on the No 2 end of the power cars. Not sure about those being on when the unit is running?
There also seems to be a lot of drag on the trailing power car too. Has anyone else experienced this?

And does anyone have a better idea of where the bits in the bits bag go than the dreadful exploded parts diagram provided?

Best
Bob

[PaulCheffus]

There also seems to be a lot of drag on the trailing power car too. Has anyone else experienced this?

Best
Bob

Hi

Yes mine is the same, I found without the body on it doesn't drag but I haven't spent any time as yet finding out why.

Cheers

Paul

[Snowwolflair]

There also seems to be a lot of drag on the trailing power car too. Has anyone else experienced this?

Best
Bob

Hi

Yes mine is the same, I found without the body on it doesn't drag but I haven't spent any time as yet finding out why.

Cheers

Paul

Check the body is snapped home correctly.

[Bob G]

Bob the lights can be turned off on the rear by using the switch on the blanking plate...

Haven't found that yet. Was just a quick "does this work" test before being packed away for Birthday. 10 days to go....

I was so excited when I copped this train at Old Oak in 1975. You can't imagine what it feels like to actually have a model of it (albeit 45 years later).
It still looks amazing to me, especially given that e.g. some of the Claytons were still being built just 10 years before. That's a huge level of progress, considering both had Paxman engines and one was a disaster!

Thanks
Bob

[PaulCheffus]

There also seems to be a lot of drag on the trailing power car too. Has anyone else experienced this?

Best
Bob

Hi

Yes mine is the same, I found without the body on it doesn't drag but I haven't spent any time as yet finding out why.

Cheers

Paul

Check the body is snapped home correctly.

Hi

It is I've just checked

Cheers

Paul

[Dizz]

Some DCC help please:

I will be adding sound later this week and want to get the prepararions done before the decoders arrive. I will have to remove a few mm of plastic from the top of the mounting to make space for the longer decoder however I cant find any information wrt the mounting PCB connections.  The speaker connections are marked, so that's not a problem, but would I be correct in thinking the other solder pads (circled in red) are for a stay alive circuit? Unfortunately I don't have a multimeter to check output/polarity/etc myself.
Many thanks in advance
Pete

[Snowwolflair]

Some DCC help please:

I will be adding sound later this week and want to get the prepararions done before the decoders arrive. I will have to remove a few mm of plastic from the top of the mounting to make space for the longer decoder however I cant find any information wrt the mounting PCB connections.  The speaker connections are marked, so that's not a problem, but would I be correct in thinking the other solder pads (circled in red) are for a stay alive circuit? Unfortunately I don't have a multimeter to check output/polarity/etc myself.
Many thanks in advance
Pete

You just need to unscrew the PCB and slide it along a bit.  See my notes earlier in the thread about mounting the speaker.

the circled pads are the motor + and -

[Dizz]

 
Thank you very much for replying so quickly.
I will move the pcb after lunch.
Have decided to invest in a multimeter to help with wiring in a stay alive.... should have bought one ages ago really.

[Ollie3440]

Afternoon all,

Well I struck gold and found someone on Facebook who had a spare powercar pair for sale. Needless to say I snapped them up!




Only the powered 41001 will be staying with me as per the preservation seen. 41002 ia to be renumbered as 41001 and will be heading off to a friends layout to act as tue same, all be it as a Dummy version.

Just gave them an hours running and all reports are good so far!

Cheera

Ollie

[PaulCheffus]

Hi

I've had time to look at my dummy car and it's obvious that the wheels are rubbing on the underside of the underframe even with the body off. I am now pondering what is the best way to open up the bogie holes but also keeping reasonable strength in the underframe.

I also suspect the power car wheels are rubbing in the same manner but haven't checked yet.

Cheers

Paul

[Bob G]

Hi

I've had time to look at my dummy car and it's obvious that the wheels are rubbing on the underside of the underframe even with the body off. I am now pondering what is the best way to open up the bogie holes but also keeping reasonable strength in the underframe.

I also suspect the power car wheels are rubbing in the same manner but haven't checked yet.

Cheers

Paul

I had the same with the Maunsell BY Van. That was easier to fix though.
Talk about tight tolerances!
Bob

[PaulCheffus]

Hi

I wonder if they have tried to lower the power cars slightly as the bogie openings look the same as my NMT version but it doesn't rub. I haven't as yet put them side by side but I suspect the new RTC version may be slightly lower in overall height.

Cheers

Paul