Very basic questions

[PostModN66]

Hi Louder,

If you not on a tight budget and can afford to buy a circuit of track to play around with that's not a bad way to go.  You could even make a little layout as a practice piece - add some scenery, try ballasting the track etc.  If you want to run a DC loco and don't have a DC controller you can run it round with batteries; a 9v battery is OK although the train might go a bit quick!

take a look at this iconic layout (although a British feel)

Cheers Jon 

[louder]

They were very good, I am thrilled with my tiny carriage, pushing it back on forth on the track.

This might be stupid would I need track to run DCC ready trains before chipping them? I will look into it. I fear I may just end up playing with trains the entire time!

That is a really lovely little layout...there is space on a shelf (30cm x 68cm) for a small shunting yard (a straight track with a  point)...with manual points. I could ballast track. I am oddly excited to ballast track. I am concerned about modelling terrain I must admit. Thankfully layout is restricted in size thanks to the dining room so there won't be a massive amount of terrain. I would like a station and some kind of shed but other than that I am not even sure what i am going to use as grass so it's just not a bit rectangle of flat green stuff.

[RailGooner]

Hi @louder , I'd recommend buying a small oval Kato Unitrack starter set with controller. You can set it up on practically any surface, even (though I wouldn't do it myself) on the carpet. And it'll pack away in to a shoebox. It's possibly the quickest route to getting to play with your trains running and provides a means for testing/running-in locos while you're working on your scenic layout.

[ntpntpntp]

I agree with @RailGooner - get a circuit of Unitrack for your test oval, it's better than Peco Setrack for quick'n'dirty temporary set-ups: more robust and not so fiddly rail joiners.       

I've used Peco code 55 for over 20 years but I keep a box of Unitrack for table-top testing of new locos. Yes you should test and run-in "DCC-ready" locos on good old DC before you fit a decoder.

So you're modelling German - excellent, same here (as you can see from my profile piccie).  What loco are you getting for your first?   Have to have a classic BR 103 electric, you can just about justify it at the very end of the period you're focusing on!

[louder]

Ok so, avoid set track at all costs. Good to know! In the setrack book there is a rather track heavy shunting yard shelf layout I was tempted to adapt for practice but I shall avoid it. (You can find that here http://imgur.com/TiZHzqS )

My first train is is the DB Class E41, BR 141 262-6 by Arnold in a beautiful cream and blue, really nice looking. It's not quite the DB Class 103 E 03 (look at me using train names!) in cream and red I was hovering over on eBay, nor E44 that peaked my interest in the German stuff but it's got a lovely shape to it. The carriage picked up today is a DB one, the box says Fleischmann 8163 K, not sure what the translates to (I still no nothing about carriages or rolling stock other than travelling on merseyrail  ) but its in that nice cream and red colour way and it has lots of square windows. There was a cheaper one with a brighter silver roof and much larger windows but that bright silver roof really turned me off. Sadly the loco won't arrive for another week or so as the guy hasn't posted yet and its 2nd class. There was a Class 103 in the store today but £75 seems like too much at the moment.

I do need to track down some matching carriages for my loco though, that would be nice.

So with the unitrack, what DC controller am I best looking at getting? I assumed I could just use the channel 10 on the Bachmann controller like it says on their tutorial.

[PostModN66]

There's nothing wrong with Set Track - It's just that it isn't so good for temporary setting up - Unitrack clicks together more securely.  Set Track is fine when pinned down, and OK "ish" when set up temporarily on a table top.

Newport Nobby says to avoid the SetTrack points, and there is sense in this suggestion; you can substitute in wider radius Streamline code 80 points; these are a perfect match to the Set Track.

Be very cautious about using channel "10" - I am no DCC expert but there are videos on YouTube suggesting that this setting destroys N Gauge motors.

Cheers Jon

[ntpntpntp]

Ok so, avoid set track at all costs.

Not "at all costs",  it's perfectly serviceable but as has been said the Set Track points are right on the usually recommended minimum radius.  To be honest my entire fiddleyard uses Set Track points and generally they've been fine. Many continental models can cope with even tighter radius as the manufacturer's track systems include tighter radii in their systems (eg. Minitrix, fleischmann, Arnold).
Set Track curves can be a useful way of creating the hidden returns in tunnels etc. as they're easier to deal with than trying to bend flexi-track if you're not used to the latter.  I built a return loop module last year using Set Track curves for convenience although my main layout uses code 55 flexi.

My first train is is the DB Class E41, BR 141 262-6 by Arnold in a beautiful cream and blue, really nice looking.

Very nice!    As my layout is more modern time period I tend to know the locos as BR141 etc. rather than their earlier "E numbers"!

I assumed I could just use the channel 10 on the Bachmann controller like it says on their tutorial.

No, definitely avoid that.  With DCC there is power in the track at all times and the small motor in an unchipped N gauge loco will be cooked over time (in fact quite rapidly with some of the modern coreless motors).   Channel 10 uses "zero-stretching" of the DCC signal to make it appear like a positive or negative voltage is present and drive the motor, but you're really not doing it any favours.  It's a facility which has fallen out of favour.

[PostModN66]

Here is the "Deansmoor" fiddleyard using Set Track, including the points.

They're fine - but for my next layout I will see if I can use less severe radii!!

Cheers  Jon 

[Railwaygun]

Ok so, avoid set track at all costs. Good to know! In the setrack book there is a rather track heavy shunting yard shelf layout I was tempted to adapt for practice but I shall avoid it. (You can find that here http://imgur.com/TiZHzqS )

My first train is is the DB Class E41, BR 141 262-6 by Arnold in a beautiful cream and blue, really nice looking. It's not quite the DB Class 103 E 03 (look at me using train names!) in cream and red I was hovering over on eBay, nor E44 that peaked my interest in the German stuff but it's got a lovely shape to it. The carriage picked up today is a DB one, the box says Fleischmann 8163 K, not sure what the translates to (I still no nothing about carriages or rolling stock other than travelling on merseyrail  ) but its in that nice cream and red colour way and it has lots of square windows. There was a cheaper one with a brighter silver roof and much larger windows but that bright silver roof really turned me off. Sadly the loco won't arrive for another week or so as the guy hasn't posted yet and its 2nd class. There was a Class 103 in the store today but £75 seems like too much at the moment.

I do need to track down some matching carriages for my loco though, that would be nice.

So with the unitrack, what DC controller am I best looking at getting? I assumed I could just use the channel 10 on the Bachmann controller like it says on their tutorial.

Unitrack starter sets include a PSU with appropriate connectors for the track. TRainTrax and Osbornes are good sources.

If you decide to move on, the PSU could be reused with code 55 or the sets have a good resale value.

http://www.traintrax.co.uk/starter-sets-gauge-c-10.html?osCsid=msaq4cuket1n0irr870b2n9nr6

http://www.traintrax.co.uk/unitrack-gauge-unitrack-track-sets-c-28_1.html

[Newportnobby]

Failing that, many retailers sell the Farish DC unit which has been split from a train set. They are actually very good although have no separate outputs for accessories. They just power the track and do it well.
Just to explain -
DCC ready means the loco will have a blanking plate so it runs on DC. Once you have run it in to make sure it's OK with DC then you can remove the blanking plate and insert the chip of your choice.
DCC fitted means the loco comes with chip already fitted and this can be run in using DCC, although I believe some chips allow running under DC and DCC.
There - that's displayed the sum total of my knowledge of DCC and I dare say even that's wrong somewhere

[louder]

I only know them in their E numbers due to wikipedia, I don't know what their numbers mean yet. I have no be honest. I am not a train person. I am learning about them as I go. I've found a few helpful websites but often I just browse the models, find one I like the look of, check the year and find out more info that way. I've always thought trains were interesting and I live very close to Chester station meaning I've grown up around them. My grandfather was a mechanic and I remember him building wind up kits of what I think were G scale trains.

I don't think I will ever be amazing knowledgable with trains but I know what I like so that is a start! The main issue is don't speak German, a little Dutch and Mandarin so I guess it's time to learn German!

Would a controller like this work with the Kato track? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roco-10788-240v-12v-DC-Controller-adaptor-Hornby-R8250-alternative-NEW-UNBOXED-/292040102158?hash=item43fef2510e:g:DLQAAOSwa~BYTR6n

The basic oval with the controller http://www.traintrax.co.uk/20850-basic-oval-with-kato-controller-p-396.html is certainly something I am going to pick up. It does mean I don't need to chip the train straight away either. I have decided I will get the model store to do it, seeing as it is my only train at the moment I would hate to ruin it. I am currently looking at a few none runners on eBay of more modern trains so I can take them apart and see what makes them tick. I am looking for modern none runners as then there should be more documentation and they are more likely to have a single problem, rather than a few.

Thats a very cool 'fiddle yard', perhaps not the best name for that!

I am programmer by trade (at least that is part of my job) so I am quite intrigued by the DCC side of automation but that is much, much further down the line for me.

[Bealman]

Sounds like you're getting a pretty strong handle on the hobby, louder. 

[BlythPower]

The carriage picked up today is a DB one, the box says Fleischmann 8163 K, not sure what the translates to (I still no nothing about carriages or rolling stock other than travelling on merseyrail  ) but its in that nice cream and red colour way and it has lots of square windows. There was a cheaper one with a brighter silver roof and much larger windows but that bright silver roof really turned me off.

The 8163K is a 1st Grossraumwagen (open coach in the UK parlance). I've found this database to be useful for looking model numbers, etc:
http://www.spur-n-datenbank.de/index.php

The search doesn't seem to work so use the menu on the left. 

[louder]

I am really enjoying it. I am quite excited to get building really. There is a lot to learn and I know I will never know it all but I am enjoying trying. Everyone here is very helpful and encouraging. My other hobbies are rather different from this so it's nice to have such a supportive community.

I think I am going to pick up http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roco-10788-240v-12v-DC-Controller-adaptor-Hornby-R8250-alternative-NEW-UNBOXED-/292040102158?hash=item43fef2510e:g:DLQAAOSwa~BYTR6n

and

http://www.traintrax.co.uk/20865-outer-oval-track-master-p-266.html for my testing.

[ntpntpntp]

I am currently looking at a few none runners on eBay of more modern trains so I can take them apart and see what makes them tick. I am looking for modern none runners as then there should be more documentation and they are more likely to have a single problem, rather than a few.

On the other hand, if you investigate bargain Minitrix, Arnold or Fleischmann models from say the 70s & 80s they are simpler and easier to dismantle and work on if you want to learn.    A bit like older cars are easier to service without electronics etc. all over them!  Spares aren't necessarily a big problem, it depends on what's needed. Many of the models from that age are still good reliable runners just maybe lacking in a little fine detail.

One of my favourite old models is the Arnold ET420 multiple unit, I've got about a dozen of them and I still regularly run models made over 30 years ago on my exhibition layout even though the latest models have been completely re-tooled.

Here's one of mine that dates from the late 70s