New to N Scale and Have a few General Questions Based on My Research

[daveg]

I'm not sure I'd want to solder all the track joins. There's a small but certain risk of expansion and contraction due to temperature changes. It'd also make life a bit more difficult should you want or need to change a section of track for any reason.

Peco do a series of Tracksetta metal templates:

http://www.ehattons.com/stocklist/1000407/1000589/1000783/0/Peco_Products_N_Gauge_Tools/prodlist.aspx

Helping you to keep control of flex track is this bit of kit:

http://www.ehattons.com/59776/Proses_FT_N_01_N_gauge_flexible_track_holder/StockDetail.aspx

I've never used it but it does look like that 3rd hand you sometimes find you are short of!

HTH

Dave G

[JimF]

Dave, I agree, a few gaps should be left for any such changes. However, most expansion and contraction occurs with the base boards, which prevention (or minimizing effects) should be dealt with during construction, and given consideration as to where the layout is housed. It takes a huge amount of heat or cold to have any effect on the plastic and metal of the actual track.

The last N layout I built, that got to the track all being down, painted, ballasted and wired, was based on 2 hollow core doors with 1" insulation foam on top. It traveled from Florida to North Carolina in a large mover's van, sat in said truck for almost a week in high heat, then was stored in a slightly damp basement for a few months before I had a room upstairs to place it. Once dusted off, and rails cleaned, trains ran without any issues.

Drew, yes of course, the soldering I mentioned was for the final step of track installation. Using either the Peco templates or the points themselves if you have them, will work.

The layout I mentioned above was a variation on a N scale layout built by one of Model Railroader's editors, David Popp, The Naugatuck Valley RR.

I first drew out the trackplan in pencil on the sheets of brown wrapping paper, taped to the board surface. My wife had a roll of the stuff. I had already modified and ballasted my points, so I measured and then pinned the points in place, then drew a center line to connect them. For large curves, I just determined what radius I needed, then found a center point for the curve, and used a cheap wood yardstick. Drilled a hole at one end, used a small nail or brad pushed through and into the foam. Drilled another hole at my radius point, big enough to have a pencil point through it.

When I had the whole plan drawn out, and adjusted to it all flowed as I wanted, I used a small pointed tool to punch along the pencil lines, through the paper and into the foam. Removed the paper and then just connected the holes (dots?) in the foam.

It did take some time to do all the above, but I wanted to get it as correct as possible, so as to not have to mess with any major issues at a later point.

Oh, and when you do get to the soldering step, if you need to solder 2 (or more) pieces of flex, do so with them straight, on a table or the floor. You will have to remove a few sleepers at the joint, to allow the rail to slide, but you can shave off the details on the removed ones and slide them back in place after the track is down.

Hope the above is of some help.

Jim

[Webbo]

I have a different opinion about soldering rail than Jim. I think you should bend the flex on both sides of the join into curves similar to where they will eventually be when the track is laid. Cut the longer rail on both track ends, connect up the two tracks with fishplates, and then solder the joins. The position of the join on both rails might shift somewhat when the track is put into its eventual position, but at least the joins will be approximately opposite one another. Clear as mud?

Webbo 

[Mito]

I have a different opinion about soldering rail than Jim. I think you should bend the flex on both sides of the join into curves similar to where they will eventually be when the track is laid. Cut the longer rail on both track ends, connect up the two tracks with fishplates, and then solder the joins. The position of the join on both rails might shift somewhat when the track is put into its eventual position, but at least the joins will be approximately opposite one another. Clear as mud?

Webbo

I read somewhere that if you solder track on a curve to stagger the joints by a few centimeters so that the rail supports the opposite rail. Getting a bit muddier I think!

[Webbo]

Makes sense Mito. A possible downside would be that you'd have to remove more sleepers around the join. I can see that offsetting the rail joins may be more advantageous on tight bends where the kinking forces would be higher than on more gradual curves (and on joining flex on bends without soldering).

Webbo

[47033]

Great advice from John. I buy all my track from Hattons, they have great prices, great customer service and you also save 20% off the prices because they deduct the VAT (tax).

Shipping is also very, very reasonable. I usually have them ship Royal Mail insured but For flexible track I go with DHL, it's oversize and can only go DHL but is still very reasonable.

Hattons allow you to choose the method of shipping and quote you the cost prior to checkout in the shopping cart. Absolutely fantastic, it's all there upfront. One other thing is their inventory level is very accurate, unlike some other vendors. Their website and ordering system is about the best I've come across.

Jamie

[Drewthegreat87]

Great advice from John. I buy all my track from Hattons, they have great prices, great customer service and you also save 20% off the prices because they deduct the VAT (tax).

Shipping is also very, very reasonable. I usually have them ship Royal Mail insured but For flexible track I go with DHL, it's oversize and can only go DHL but is still very reasonable.

Hattons allow you to choose the method of shipping and quote you the cost prior to checkout in the shopping cart. Absolutely fantastic, it's all there upfront. One other thing is their inventory level is very accurate, unlike some other vendors. Their website and ordering system is about the best I've come across.

Jamie

Yeah, you really can't beat the not paying VAT on stuff! I have ordered from them and will probably continue to for rolling stock and items which aren't easily acquired over here in the US. Really awesome shop!

[Jon898]

Joints on flex curves was discussed earlier this year here: http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=31168.msg355317#msg355317

Jon