Moving from OO.

Started by Markn, January 13, 2016, 09:00:32 PM

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Markn

Hello.
I'm considering moving from OO to N mainly due to size constraints. I have 7'x4' with additional 2'x1' connecting to a 2'6 x 6'10 making an odd looking n shape. I can build the layout I want. I'm considering using Kato Unitrack as I'm impressed by the inbuilt point motors and the ready ballasted look. I'm going to take the opportunity to model a Japanese town. What are Kato products like for quality?  The layout will most likely be DC. Are Kato points electrofrog or insilfrog?  Thanks for your help.

Newportnobby

Hi Mark, and welcome to the wonderful world of N gauge :wave:
Sounds like you have plenty of space to model in but I hope you can reach all areas as 7' x 4' could be a bit of a reach!
Not being a Kato user I'll leave those questions to others with more experience but there are plenty on the forum who use it.

port perran

Welcome Matk.
Like Newport Nobby, I'm not a Kato man but plenty on here are and will undoubtedly provide lots of help.
I'm sure I'll get used to cream first soon.

dannyboy

Hi Mark and welcome. My current 4' x 2' coffee table layout is Peco track. However, my next layout - already in the planning stages - will be Kato. I have bought some track and points and, having had a quick play test, I am convinced I am doing the right thing. Plus, there are plenty of forumites who give it the  :thumbsup:. There are lots of posts concerning Kato - have a read of them. Good luck with your layout. David.
David.
I used to be indecisive - now I'm not - I don't think.
If a friend seems distant, catch up with them.

Bealman

G'day from Australia, Mark, and welcome to the NGF!  :thumbsup:
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

GeeBee

Hi Mark the #4 points and the Wye points are route selectable ie insul or electro by moving 2 small screws on the underside of the point I think the #6 points are insul frog.
hope this helps
Graham

DELETED

#6
Very quickly...

What are Kato products like for quality?  The layout will most likely be DC. Are Kato points electrofrog or insilfrog?

-I'd personally recommmend DCC these days
-Quality, nothing to complain about for track anyway apart from I think the joiners / fishplates can be 'naff.  I dont have any locos but read good reviews about them
-Insulfrog / live.  Well the No 6's I have are effectively elecctrofrog / metal frog as is the double crossover.  Something put me off about the No 4 points so I never ordered any yet.  Spec's I've seen  say electrofrog (or metal frog anyway) -but looks more like black plastic whenever I see it in pics.  Either way you can fit them like Peco points, with plastic joiners instead of metal ones on the inner diverging rails

...Check out Mike Fifer on here / youtube for some good Kato hints and tips :thumbsup:

Chris Morris

You can of course use Kato track to model a UK layout. I had a Kato Euromed train for a while and was well impressed with quality and performance.

I am firmly in the DC camp but my brother is DCC so I am familiar with both. For me (and I used to work in IT) DCC seems to be harder to use than DC  although you do get continuous lights and the possibility of sound with DCC. If lights and sound are important then DCC is the way to go but if not I would stick with DC.  I accept that I may well have a biased point of view but when I go to exhibitions the DC layouts seem to run ok while the DCC layouts often feature a confused looking operator pressing lots of buttons on the handset. And it is really annoying spending the whole day exhibiting next to a layout with loads of sound equipped locos.
Working doesn't seem to be the perfect thing for me so I'll continue to play.
Steve Marriott / Ronnie Lane

Railwaygun

look here for info. re KAto Track. there are a lot of enthusiastic proponents on this Forum - search Kto to find the threads.

Start here:

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?board=131.0

Kato #4 points can be electrofrog / power switching. they are configured using 2 screws on the back. see Thread above for instructions.

it is almost 100% reliaable, point switching is easy ( 2 wires + kato Switch),nad it is great for DCC.

Nick R
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Markn

 :hellosign:

Thanks for the advice, it's much appreciated.  The access across the 4ft isn't too bad as I've got access up with both sides albeit a bit of a squeeze. 
I've had a mixed fortunes with DCC on my current OO layout.  I love what DCC can do lights, sounds and the ability to drive the loco rather than the track but it has been a struggle to chip some OO models even when they've been DCC ready.  I've used a Gauagemaster Prodigy Advance 2 but I guess I haven't been that impressed by it.  It was the same with a ESU eCos I tried.

:thankyousign:

Mark.   

Sprintex

Quote from: Chris m on January 14, 2016, 10:49:17 AM
If lights and sound are important then DCC is the way to go but if not I would stick with DC. 

You're missing one very BIG and important point of DCC, the one that made my decision to come back to model railways! The ability to select a loco and drive it anywhere on the layout without fiddling with section switches, cab control or isolating sections ;)

QuoteAnd it is really annoying spending the whole day exhibiting next to a layout with loads of sound equipped locos.

Don't blame DCC, blame the idiot operator that has the sound volume turned up too high! ::)


Paul

Chris Morris

Quote from: Sprintex on January 15, 2016, 09:06:49 AM
Quote from: Chris m on January 14, 2016, 10:49:17 AM
If lights and sound are important then DCC is the way to go but if not I would stick with DC. 

You're missing one very BIG and important point of DCC, the one that made my decision to come back to model railways! The ability to select a loco and drive it anywhere on the layout without fiddling with section switches, cab control or isolating sections ;)

On my railways (I have 3) I merely change the points (which you have to do whether DC or DCC) and the desired train runs without any bothersome pressing numbers to select the correct loco first. Its down to individual choice. I know many find DCC is great but I find DC is best for most circumstances.
Working doesn't seem to be the perfect thing for me so I'll continue to play.
Steve Marriott / Ronnie Lane

DesertHound

Mark

Welcome to the forum, you will find many helpful hobbyists here who will be more Han willing to lend a hand.

Well, I'm firmly in the DC camp (Poole Farish fanatic - that's pre-DCC days) so can't really help there. As for Kato track, well I can thoroughly recommend it. It can be weathered to look more realistic (I haven't bothered, since I'm happy with it the way it is and I'm not after the most realistic railway ever) but do remember it is sectional track, and as such you won't be able to get those "natural curves" you can get with Peco flexitrack.not a problem for me, but just something to consider.

I read that #4 points can give issues to Farish kettles (perhaps just the older ones), again something to think about if you're modelling steam. I only have #6 points and am very happy with them.

I only have one Kato train, it's a suburban commuter. They do look a little "plasticky" on close inspection, but have fantastic detail, lights, a smoother than smooth motor and run like a dream. Again, that's a recommendation if you're considering them.

Do keep us up to date with your progress.

Kindest

Daniel
Visit www.thefarishshed.com for all things Poole Farish and have the confidence to look under the bonnet of your locos!

railsquid

Quote from: Markn on January 13, 2016, 09:00:32 PM
Hello.
I'm considering moving from OO to N mainly due to size constraints. I have 7'x4' with additional 2'x1' connecting to a 2'6 x 6'10 making an odd looking n shape. I can build the layout I want. I'm considering using Kato Unitrack as I'm impressed by the inbuilt point motors and the ready ballasted look. I'm going to take the opportunity to model a Japanese town. What are Kato products like for quality? 
In general, Kato products are very well-made and excellent value for money. The motive power units don't seem to suffer from the kinds of problems which are frequently reported with Grafar and Dapol, and my collection includes a bunch of 2nd hand purchases of sometimes dubious origin, all of which Just Work™.

The downside is that DCC isn't widespread in Japan, so you won't find any pre-installed DCC sockets; I believe some models are marketed as "DCC-friendly" where replacement DCC-enabled circuit boards are available, but (partly due to acquiring vast amounts of inexpensive, DCC-incompatible Japanese motive power) I'm DC only.

Do also check out the Japan-specific JNS Forum.

Quote from: DesertHound on January 15, 2016, 09:53:04 PM
I only have one Kato train, it's a suburban commuter. They do look a little "plasticky" on close inspection, but have fantastic detail, lights, a smoother than smooth motor and run like a dream. Again, that's a recommendation if you're considering them.
Out of curiosity, which model do you have? I would say many current British models have (even) better detailing and finish, albeit at twice or more the price, but on the whole Kato are excellent value for money and better equipped (apart from the DCC issue) - for example all non-powered coaches come with electrical pickups for lightbars as standard.

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