Disalusioned about my locos

[Geoff]

I am getting a little fed up with my Loco's for not running as they should.

GF Class 101 Brilliant runner
GF Class 4F Brilliant runner
GF Class 24 Brilliant runner
GF Class 42 runs well in reverse but the other way it struggles
GF Class 08 sticks a little
GF Class 66 runs ok on long sweeping bends does not like tight bends
GF J39 hates all points jumps off every one and stutters worst buy
D Class A4 Noisy Runner but up to now fine
D Class 58 Brilliant Runner
D Pannier Tank at first it was struggling then I had a fiddle runs fine until it decides to jump the rails for no apparant reason also seems to have a swagger.

As you see I am only have 10 Loco's at this present time and I am wondering wether to invest in more loco's, realistically I want to have 8 units running at once but certain Loco's do not let me achieve that either by jumping points that will be the J39 or coming off the rails pannier tank after it gets a sway on.

I love this hobby but for the money we have to pay for Loco's I do not think we are getting value for money, out of all my Loco's only 4 are brilliant and for some reason that is keeping my money in my pocket, I want to have a 100% of brilliant running Loco's.

I doubt if I am alone on this issue.

[Northman]

May I suggest you look at Union Mills engines?  I have a brilliant J39 with DCC fitted by Wickness.

They may not be the most detailed in the world but they run very well - as others will testify in many posts on the forum. 

[mr bachmann]

As I model USA , I switched over to Kato for the same reason , even Atlas get the dreaded split gears .

[EtchedPixels]

The J39 sounds like the wheels are not gauged properly - I would return it as faulty goods if so.

Is the 66 derailing on sharp bends or slowing/stalling. In the latter case it may just want a spot of lubrication.

I'd agree on the swagger possibly being misgauged wheels on the pannier or possibly wonky ones. If it was originally ok then the wheels are round so it's probably fixable unlike some of the early Dapol locos.

How does the 42 "struggle"  ?

[Geoff]

The J39 sounds like the wheels are not gauged properly - I would return it as faulty goods if so.

Is the 66 derailing on sharp bends or slowing/stalling. In the latter case it may just want a spot of lubrication.

I'd agree on the swagger possibly being misgauged wheels on the pannier or possibly wonky ones. If it was originally ok then the wheels are round so it's probably fixable unlike some of the early Dapol locos.

How does the 42 "struggle"  ?

The D66 is my oldest and yes its lubricated, not to much and I am going to have a further look at it.

The Pannier swagger the front set of wheels you can move from side to side and the centre and the rear seem to be set maybe this is the cause.

Ah the class 42 runs brilliant in reverse lol but in the forward motion it stutters like its losing power the motor is going ok but the unit is not keeping up with it.
I posted about the Class 42 and Dr Al said strip it down its probably the main drive cog slipping, I do not think I have the ability to strip it so might have to go for repair.

[Dr Al]

The Pannier swagger the front set of wheels you can move from side to side and the centre and the rear seem to be set maybe this is the cause.

I would reckon that one of the wheelsets is a "tooth out" in terms of the gearing relative to the other wheels. The Dapol Panniers have squared axle ends, so the quartering is unlikely to be the issue as it's usually accurate.

Cheers,
Alan

[Dr Al]

GF Class 08 sticks a little

Check all pickups are touching wheel backs (it's common that some may not be).

GF Class 66 runs ok on long sweeping bends does not like tight bends

How tight is tight? 12" radius? 9" radius? less? If it's <9" then you can't expect anything else. If it's 12" or more then check the trackwork for bumps and kinks and flatness (particularly along the inside edges fo the rails where the flanges run)

GF J39 hates all points jumps off every one and stutters worst buy

I'd think this could be trackwork, given that you say others come off on turnouts. In terms of pickup, check that the loco drawbar wires are making good contact with the pegs to transmit power from loco to tender.

D Class A4 Noisy Runner but up to now fine

Needs the worm bearings oiled to quieten - common problem.

HTH,
Alan

[Geoff]

Well I use Kato track and they are flat to the base all other Loco's do not seem to have a problem the only part of the track that has an incline is the Branch Line and that has just been installed, the J39 goes across the straight section of the points OK but it just will not go onto the slip on 186 or 124 points at first I thought it was the the plastic parts that hang low but that is not the case, then Iexamined the join between the engine and the tender and that could be a problem I have just checked the turn on the 4F and the turning radious is more than on the J39, so just wondering is there a longer joining bar you can to eliviate this?

The A4 I can live with I did check and there seems to be plenty of grease in there but I am allways sceptical how far I can strip anything down as I do not want to lose any small screws or parts.

The Class 66 does seem a little tight on its bogies so I will try and see if I can do anything there.

Ok the J39 will not run smooth from start to about 40 mph scale speed seems jumpy but when upto speed it seems fine, same when slowing to a stop.

The Pannier when going forward the engine is smooth except for the wobble, but when in reverse there is like a grinding noise like someting is not right.

[MJKERR]

I am still suffering split gears
I suspect it is more to do with storage and house conditions
The temperature in my house varies considerably, moved all my models to a room where the temperature is constant, but it made no difference!

This year I have had two failures, that is consistent with previous years

[Roy L S]

Well I use Kato track and they are flat to the base all other Loco's do not seem to have a problem the only part of the track that has an incline is the Branch Line and that has just been installed, the J39 goes across the straight section of the points OK but it just will not go onto the slip on 186 or 124 points at first I thought it was the the plastic parts that hang low but that is not the case, then Iexamined the join between the engine and the tender and that could be a problem I have just checked the turn on the 4F and the turning radious is more than on the J39, so just wondering is there a longer joining bar you can to eliviate this?

Ok the J39 will not run smooth from start to about 40 mph scale speed seems jumpy but when upto speed it seems fine, same when slowing to a stop.

I can't speak with any experience of KATO track so have no idea if that is any part of the issue.

What I can say is that I have several Farish J39s and all run fine and crawl quite acceptably if not quite as well as the new coreless motored locos. The problem does sound like pickups. The tender is unlikely to be the problem (4 wheels pick up there) but to see if it is the loco simply lift the tender from the track with power applied - does the tender drive still run? If not the most likely problem is the power transfer sprung wires underneath the drwbar, they need to be carefully tweaked to make firmer contact with the half round stubs that spring on to (they take the power from loco through drawbar to tender.

My J39s do not especially like being routed through the converging route of a 9 inch radius Peco Settrack point straight off of a curve but aside from that as long as track is properly laid with no bumps or kinks they are absolutely fine.

Quite likely not in your case from what you say, but I fear a lot of the time people blame the loco when the fault lies in poorly planned or laid trackwork or an expectation that a loco will go through a curve it was never designed to.

Regards

Roy

[johnlambert]

I am getting a little fed up with my Loco's for not running as they should.

That's a pity, it is very frustrating when that happens but it looks like you've got some of the same or similar locos to me.  If you don't mind I'll share my experiences.

GF Class 101 Brilliant runner - I've got one too and four 108s, which are mechanically identical.  As you say, they run brilliantly.  I'd say it is well worth buying another if you want more DMUs.

GF Class 4F Brilliant runner - I've got one that runs brilliantly but the first one I bought had to go back as the wire on the tender drawbar wasn't making contact with the loco.  I'd be tempted by another.

GF Class 24 Brilliant runner - I've got a class 25, which I think is the same underneath.  I'd happily buy another 25 or a 24.

GF Class 42 runs well in reverse but the other way it struggles - I've got 4, all run great, I think you've just been unlucky with yours.  I'd certainly have another if I needed any more of this class.

GF Class 08 sticks a little - I've had four of these, one makes a very faint click when running in one direction but not serious enough to warrant investigation or return.  Otherwise I think the new style Farish 08 is another good loco.

D Pannier Tank at first it was struggling then I had a fiddle runs fine until it decides to jump the rails for no apparant reason also seems to have a swagger. - I've got four now (bought a new one yesterday), never had a problem with any of them and would happily buy more. 

D Class A4 Noisy Runner but up to now fine - Not got an A4 but my Dapol A3 was a big disappointment, very noisy and likes to derail for no reason.  Put me off Dapol 4-6-2 steam locos.

I've no experience of these locos.
GF Class 66 runs ok on long sweeping bends does not like tight bends
GF J39 hates all points jumps off every one and stutters worst buy
D Class 58 Brilliant Runner

As you see I am only have 10 Loco's at this present time and I am wondering wether to invest in more loco's, realistically I want to have 8 units running at once but certain Loco's do not let me achieve that either by jumping points that will be the J39 or coming off the rails pannier tank after it gets a sway on.

I love this hobby but for the money we have to pay for Loco's I do not think we are getting value for money, out of all my Loco's only 4 are brilliant and for some reason that is keeping my money in my pocket, I want to have a 100% of brilliant running Loco's.

I doubt if I am alone on this issue.

It is perfectly reasonable to want all your locos to run as well as they can.  You haven't said how you bought your locos (online or in person, new or second hand) but if you're not happy and assuming you bought from a retailer you should be returning any faulty locos for exchange or refund (sorry, I'm sure you know that but it seems to bear repeating).

From the list of things you currently own I'm not sure if there's a theme to your collection but if you're looking at buying some more locos the following would be my recommendations:

DMU - Dapol Class 121/122 - I've got several and never had a problem, smooth and sweet running plus they would compliment your 101.
Diesel - Dapol class 22 - I've got 2 and, again, they're smooth and sweet running as well as being a nicely detailed model.
Steam - Graham Farish Ivatt 2MT 2-6-0 or BR Standard 5MT 4-6-0 - My 2MT runs like a Swiss watch and the 5MT is pretty much as good.

[Dr Al]

Well I use Kato track

There are known problems with Kato track, some particular turnouts (sorry, I don't know which as I use Peco - but has been discussed on here a lot), so it may be the track.

Cheers,
Alan

[austinbob]

It is perfectly reasonable to want all your locos to run as well as they can.  You haven't said how you bought your locos (online or in person, new or second hand) but if you're not happy and assuming you bought from a retailer you should be returning any faulty locos for exchange or refund (sorry, I'm sure you know that but it seems to bear repeating).

Trouble is John there are many people who would rather 'fettle' their locos to get them working rather than send them back as not fit for purpose - like most people would do for any other product they buy. I really don't understand why N gaugers accept dodgy locos but wouldn't accept other dodgy products. However, I'm sure that the fact that many locos don't get sent back makes the manufacturers complacent as they think customers will accept inferior products.

[Dr Al]

I really don't understand why N gaugers accept dodgy locos but wouldn't accept other dodgy products.

It's simple - if I see that it's something I can fix immediately then I would do so - if I send it back I'll risk getting another the same, have the time and hassle of having to go out and post it back (and have to make sure I get that returned from retailer) again and again. This takes time (and money).

It's far easier just to put right in most cases. Life's too short. Given that most of the locos I have are modified, painted or detailed in some way, their warranty is soon void anyway.

I will post generally the problems on forums that are known to be watched by Bachmann, so the feedback is coming across.

Cheers,
Alan

[Dr Al]

The A4 I can live with I did check and there seems to be plenty of grease in there but I am allways sceptical how far I can strip anything down as I do not want to lose any small screws or parts.

Unfortunately, it's not easy to lubricate the worm bearings on the A4 - you can't really get the body off (well, you can, but since most of the valve gear is attached to, much of this needs to be removed from its wheel connections to allow the body to be removed.). If you have a long syringe you can get in there by removing just the baseplate and poking through the intermediate gearing up to the worm - a bit hit and miss though.

Cheers,
Alan