Fiddle Yard Cassette help needed

Started by Geoff, May 10, 2014, 08:22:27 AM

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Geoff

I am wanting to make up a Cassette Fiddle Yard with approx 6 tracks, I need to make the fiddle yard 800mm long, but I need it to be smooth flowing and lock at each track I pick to use, is there anyone who can advise me into how to go about it, I model in Kato track but I do not mind if the fiddle yard is Peco Based.

Many thanks for any help.
Geoff

bridgiesimon

I use cassette storage on both of my exhibitiopn layouts and find them very easy to use.

A few tips -
I have access to a powered planer but I would advise buying your strips ensuring they are all the same thickness.
I use peco track soldered to copper clad at each end to ensure the rail ends do not move around and stay aligned.
I use a simple paddle like connector to feed power to the cassette rather than plugs/sockets/buldog clips etc this is soldered to the copper clad on the approach track and then rests on the copper clad of the cassette helping to hold it in place but also transfers the power.
Add sides to the cassettes to stop stuff falling off while being moved.
Ensure that the track is laid exactly central on each cassette then they can be turned.
I have also found that gravity and friction is enough to stop them moving around when in use.

Using cassettes means that you are unlimited with how many trains you can store.

I can take some piccies and post later if you want, no problem at all!

Best wishes
Simon

Geoff


Quote from: bridgiesimon on May 10, 2014, 09:33:04 AM
I use cassette storage on both of my exhibitiopn layouts and find them very easy to use.

A few tips -
I have access to a powered planer but I would advise buying your strips ensuring they are all the same thickness.
I use peco track soldered to copper clad at each end to ensure the rail ends do not move around and stay aligned.
I use a simple paddle like connector to feed power to the cassette rather than plugs/sockets/buldog clips etc this is soldered to the copper clad on the approach track and then rests on the copper clad of the cassette helping to hold it in place but also transfers the power.
Add sides to the cassettes to stop stuff falling off while being moved.
Ensure that the track is laid exactly central on each cassette then they can be turned.
I have also found that gravity and friction is enough to stop them moving around when in use.

Using cassettes means that you are unlimited with how many trains you can store.

I can take some piccies and post later if you want, no problem at all!

Best wishes
Simon

Thanks for that Simon, yes please if you can post a couple of pictures that would be helpful.
Geoff

NeilWhite


Geoff

I find your message a bit confusing. Are you talking about cassettes - a number of separate bits of mounted track which can individually be offered up to the entrance to the layout, or a traverser - a number of tracks mounted together on a base which can be slid or rolled backwards and forwards to line one track at a time with the entrance?

Neil

Geoff

Quote from: NeilWhite on May 10, 2014, 09:51:37 AM

Geoff

I find your message a bit confusing. Are you talking about cassettes - a number of separate bits of mounted track which can individually be offered up to the entrance to the layout, or a traverser - a number of tracks mounted together on a base which can be slid or rolled backwards and forwards to line one track at a time with the entrance?

Neil

Hi Neil I am confused what I actually need I need something not to wide but easy to change over consists, a fiddle yard or cassette will be on my desk leaving me enough room to do modelling I have seen cassettes but never known how they were put together, and I was thinking about a traverser but it might take up much needed room.
Geoff

bridgiesimon

Ok here goes for some piccies, hopefully!!

Starters -
here is the storage shelf unit that bolts on to my N gauge exhibition layout so the unused cassettes of stock do not take up much space. I also have an extension shelf unit that bolts on to the front of this to extend space for 10 shelf spaces, usually 12 trains for a show.



The other piccies here are taken on my Hobbiton End narrow gauge layout as it is not painted black so easier to photograph.

On the approach track, raised to match the cassettes, you can see here that the rails are soldered to the copper clad and the paddle contacts are also clearly visible. On this layout I have 2 tracks leading to the layout so have a wood strp between them that the cassettes locate against.



Here are a couple of the cassettes from Polpendra, obviously their length is as you need, I have sopme for full length rakes, some for shorter trains and a few short ones for locomotives or railcars.



Close up of the end of a cassette, please do not look too hard at my soldering, not my strongest point!



Finally a piccie of the cassette in place showing how easily it fits and aligns.



I really hope this helps either to decide on the best way to set up your storage or during construction.

Any more info needs, please ask.

Best wishes
Simon

Malc

A really good set of pictures Simon, but just to clarify, what aligns the cassettes to the outgoing track? Is it just done by eye or is there some sort of latch?
The years have been good to me, it was the weekends that did the damage.

bridgiesimon

On Polpendra alignment is by the cassette being against the back of the storage board. On hobbiton end, the are jist placed tight against the wooden beam along between the positions. Hence inportance that track is cenytal on wooden strips.
hope this makes sense

best wishes
simon

Malc

Thanks Simon. I can now see the thin wooden strip aligned between the roads. I think I'll have a bash at doing it. The wipers look like an easy way of getting power to the cassette.
The years have been good to me, it was the weekends that did the damage.

Geoff

Yep I like that idea so when I am fully set up I shall be making them cassettes then that will leave me ample room for modelling.

Thank you Simon
Geoff

Dorsetmike

I used some plastic trunking from a , - get the 25mm wide one, the 22mm is not quite wide enough for cylinders on some steamers. it comes in 1M lengths which will take a 5 or 6 coach train plus loco  (depends on coach and loco length)

"Wipers" similar to Simon's but can be vertical or horizontal
Cheers MIKE
[smg id=6583]


How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost!

Newportnobby

Quote from: Malc on May 10, 2014, 04:19:15 PM
Thanks Simon. I can now see the thin wooden strip aligned between the roads. I think I'll have a bash at doing it. The wipers look like an easy way of getting power to the cassette.

Malc - (like the new pic, by the way) I have often seen cassettes made of 'L' shaped aluminium spaced for N gauge track such that no track is actually involved. The aluminium is simply screwed to a piece of wood and end pieces slotted in when the need to turn the cassette occurs.
Simples :thumbsup:

Malc

Thanks Mick (about the photo) I too have seen those aluminium angle cassettes, but I'm not sure how accurate they would be for N gauge. Different locos are different widths, especially some of my US locos and the class O8, so I think alignment would be difficult. I think Mike's idea of plastic trunking and flexi track might be the best. I need to build my new layout before I can experiment.
The years have been good to me, it was the weekends that did the damage.

bridgiesimon

for the first batch of cassettes I made, I used some strip wood from a DIY place, the strips were 40mm wide by 4mm thick and I cut them to length, fitted the copper clad and track then added thin strips to the sides. seemed really easy to do, some Aluminium is made from odd stuff, I bought some and it wouldn't conduct electricity!! Also some is curved on the edges rather than having a square edge needed for the wheels to run on. At least we already know the wheele run on track.

Anyway, just a few thoughts.

Best wishes
Simon

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