baseboard material

Started by saddler, January 20, 2013, 09:14:41 PM

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saddler

okay, i have a rough plan where i'm heading with the track but should i use MDF or chipboard? overall the layout must remain light enough to be carried away up 2 flights of stairs, i will be adding supports underneath, mainly to give me enough clearance for point motors, any and all advice is welcome, also is 6mm too thin?

EtchedPixels

Quote from: saddler on January 20, 2013, 09:14:41 PM
okay, i have a rough plan where i'm heading with the track but should i use MDF or chipboard? overall the layout must remain light enough to be carried away up 2 flights of stairs, i will be adding supports underneath, mainly to give me enough clearance for point motors, any and all advice is welcome, also is 6mm too thin?

If you want it to be light then the answer is neither.MDF is heavy and chipboard sags horribly over time. Obviously to an extent it depends how big the layout sections are. You can't wave a large layout around even if light. It's just too cumbersome and covered in delicate bits for you to smash against the edges of stuff !


The traditional recipe for a lightweight baseboard was plywood with framing, then lot then properly varnished and glued. A lot of people now are using plywood with laser cut plywood framing or using plywood and insulation foam sandwiches. You can do it with hardboard and framing if framed carefully and at a sensible spacing but ply is generally considered the better choice.

Alan
"Knowledge has no value or use for the solitary owner: to be enjoyed it must be communicated" -- Charles Pratt, 1st Earl Camden

Caz

Go with EP there, plywood for a strong and light baseboard, I used 10mm for mine, easy to work with and once glued up very strong.   :thumbsup:
Caz
layout here
Claywell, High Hackton & Bampney Intro
Hackton info
Bampney info

Sprintex

Plywood ideally, 6mm will be fine as long as it's braced about every foot.

MDF as a second choice. Yes it's heavier, and if you're planning on pinning your track down be prepared for many bent pins and bruised fingers ;) It is cheaper though usually. Again 6mm braced every foot or so will be OK.

Chipboard - avoid at all costs!!

As already mentioned whatever you use you will need to give it all a couple of coats of varnish to seal it against moisture and potential warping  :thumbsup:


Paul

daveg

Ditto re choosing ply.

I went for 9mm + 2x1 framework. My 72x30 is just light enough for me to carry on my own.

Plenty of varnish as suggested by EP and make sure you do both sides and the frame to seal the timber from damp.

Dave G

saddler

thanks guys, ply it is for me, as its my first layout i'll be keeping it small 42"x30" or so and maybe move onto something larger in time  ;)

d-a-n

Bought an Ikea table top from the area where the busted furniture and spare doors is for £12. Cheaper than anything, rigid and no messy woodwork! Take a peek at the green VIKA AMON table tops...

Sprintex

Take a peek inside it and you'll find there's not much to fix things to  ;)

They are of hollow honeycomb construction apart from at the very edges, so if you're thinking of fixing point motors to it you're probably going to have problems . . .


Paul

d-a-n

The table top I've used is solid all the way through.

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