Kato unitrack

Started by mojo, Yesterday at 01:13:30 PM

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Bealman, Bigmac and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

mojo

Does this system have a rail joiner with elecric connection?
If not how is power connected to track?
M.

Jim Easterbrook

The easy way is with a 62 mm power feeder track: https://traintrax.co.uk/20041-62mm-feeder-track-p-281.html

The more complicated way is with powered "uni-joiners": https://traintrax.co.uk/24818-terminal-unijoiner-p-326.html
Jim Easterbrook
"I'm an engineer, not an artist!"
"Amoro, emptio, utiliso!"
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Bealman

#2
I think that the post is referring to a power input track. Yes, there is a small piece of track which accepts a plug from a Kato SX controller, as in the post above.
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

Newportnobby

#3
I use the 62mm power feed track piece for my Unitrack test oval, but it's powered by a Bachmann train set controller

mojo

Thanks for the replies.

The piece sitable is the powered rail joint=er as shown in the second link.

As some members, from whom I have asked for advice previously, may know I have had power connection problems in my stock yard due to using point blade contact.

Tha layout and stockyard splits in two halves with IRJs connecting the two, so I had a thought of using the Kato RJs as easy to disconnect/connect and applying power to all the loops by this means using switches.
They seem quite expensive though so I may try soldering wires to the standard Kato RJs which are less expensive.

Maurice C.

EtchedPixels

Kato #4 points have screws on the bottom that let you set them power routing or non power routing. For a chain of sidings you can set the straight direction of all but the last one not power routing and the curved power routing. That way you only have a single blade contact to worry about per siding. You will need to sort out those last two sidings with an isolator but the rest will just work.

It's also possible to take #4 points apart and clean them internally if you've got gunk in one, but they should if properly adjusted be very reliable given how the power is switched.
"Knowledge has no value or use for the solitary owner: to be enjoyed it must be communicated" -- Charles Pratt, 1st Earl Camden

Jeff_W

Unitrack user here.

Kato offers two ways to power their track, as others have stated. There's the plug-in option that connects to certain pieces of 62mm straight track, and feeders with Unijoiners on the end that let you pop out the ones on track pieces and add them wherever. I prefer the joiners as I can have feeders anywhere, and I feel like on a permanent layout the track-connecting feeders might come loose, though I have used tape to hold them in.

If you're running a longer layout you may be interested in a 3-Way connector, though Kato also makes 5-way connectors now. Just remember to keep your track pieces facing the same direction if you're using the feeder tracks, or at least keep the wire colors on the same sides of the rail (blue on one side, white on the other) to prevent shorts. I was using the 3-way connectors on my layout before opting to use Wago lever nuts and Atlas 16 gauge wire to wire my layout for DCC. The Kato feeders are 24 gauge (smaller) wire.


mojo

I have not explained my problem correctly so will have another go!

The stockyard is all Peco track with 8 loops.
The 12' long layout is split into 2 boards.
At the moment the loops are connected at the board joint by Peco IRJs but in the event of having to separate and rejoin the two halves I anticipate having the devil of a job trying to connect the tracks.
I have used Kato rail joiners to connect/disconnect track with a small cassette when removing steam locos to return to the other end of the train and they are easy to use for this operation.
All the loops are currently powered from the ends via point blade contact which does cause some problems.
The idea was to replace the centre IRLs with powered Kato joiners and individual switches.
This would hopefully improve the separation and rejoining of the boards and improve power supply to the track.

Thanks for all the replies.

Maurice

ntpntpntp

#8
You mention IRJs - so you need an isolation gap at the joints?

Rather than using rail joiners at baseboard joints, I would suggest you ensure the boards themselves have accurate alignment dowels and you secure the rail ends (soldering to brass screws or to copper-clad board are two common methods).  Then run a multi-way plug and socket for electrical connection.  Having no physical rail join means you can mix and match rail profiles, run across at acute angles etc.


This has been my method since the 1970s, it works perfectly for my exhibition layouts which obviously get assembled and dismantled frequently :)



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