Just saw this video and while it's not trains or N gauge specifically, I'm wondering if the technique might be something that's adaptable to N Gauge.
The way the transfers are applied looks like it would really suit small scale detail.

https://youtu.be/2V9nH6IcXaw?si=kYI4_4kyXimEFtNV

I have often wondered about applying the principles of potato or woodblock printing for white transfers, or as the base for other colour transfers to aid depth of colour.
Never thought of nail varnish, might be useful, thanks for posting.

Cheers 

Alan

So it's basically homebrew tampo printing.  Interesting but you obviously have to create suitable plates with the desired artwork. Photo-etching maybe?

I will show this to my son as he does a lot of Warhammer and similar figure and vehicle painting. 

I'm fortunate to have an old ALPS Microdry printer for my homebrew white, metallic, CMYK decals.  It's just about hanging on to life with its accompanying WindowsME PC for the driver

I used Rotring technical drawing pens, nib sizes typically 0.1mm to 0.5mm, not cheap - Amazon set of 3with accessories £63.49.

Quote from: ntpntpntp on September 10, 2025, 02:36:30 PMSo it's basically homebrew tampo printing.  Interesting but you obviously have to create suitable plates with the desired artwork. Photo-etching maybe?

Photo etching doesn't in my experience work well. You need something that actually glues to the surface or capillary action ruins your efforts. For bigger stuff vinyl cutters work but not really tiny.

@EtchedPixels   but it looks like the plates used in the video are laser or photo half-etched? Photo etching seems to do a decent job of things like loco nameplates.   Not sure why you need to glue to the surface, tampo printing doesn't work that way.  I've seen it in action at the Fleischmann factory 20 years ago.

It works if you make a 'stamp' out of metal but then the stamp is very bad at carrying paint onto a model. It doesn't work if you make a stencil and paint over it. Tampo printing uses materials that are good at carrying the ink evenly over onto the model.

Now whether you could 3d print any of the materials good at carrying paint I don't know.

He uses a soft silicone tool to transfer the paint from the plate to the model.   I think it came with the artwork plates he's using, but no doubt something similar can be obtained.

Quote from: ntpntpntp on September 10, 2025, 06:41:17 PMHe uses a soft silicone tool to transfer the paint from the plate to the model.  I think it came with the artwork plates he's using, but no doubt something similar can be obtained.

I think it's a standard nail art tool

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005905280214.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.21ef1802C08Sar

Will be here in 11 days, nail varnish from a shop with self checkout methinks.......

Going back to the video, the silicone must be acetone proof for cleaning?

Alan

For the 'decal' sheets, a 3D printed sheet with the images raised on them would probably work. Assuming the hardened resin doesn't react with the nail varnish.

I would doubt the nail varish would react with the 3d print (but I do not know what is in nail varnish, so it is just a guess). I would be more concerned it would tend to stick to that rather than the silicone.

But these things are peanuts; got to be worth experimenting. I can see the silicone thing on Amazon too.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09FDQ4796/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A100VPR3ZTAWLS&th=1

I will have a go when/if I get the chance.

Quote from: F2Andy on September 12, 2025, 11:29:22 AMI would doubt the nail varish would react with the 3d print (but I do not know what is in nail varnish, so it is just a guess). I would be more concerned it would tend to stick to that rather than the silicone.

Yup, might need a coating layer of something once printed.