Again thanks for the help

The DCC chip is definitely the culprit after testing with another working DCC chip (from the class 58 that I managed to botch soldering on while trying to replace the motor - if anyone wants a bodyshell and bogies let me know!)

I don't want to fry another chip. In the attached image when I was gently pressing the loco to the track I got a low voltage shock from the metal block in "circle 3". Wonder if there is some frayed wiring that has shorted the chip, but i thought there were some built in protections against shorts with expensive chips like ESU Loko?

The chip clips just underneath the soundboard (? the large black board marked N20-PCB Rear) but there definitely is a hard soldered wire, not quite the one advised by Revolution. The brown wire runs from the main board of the chip (hard soldered) to the speaker (hard soldered).

I could probably hold my hands steady enough (with a couple of Glenmorangies) to solder that but am I a barking up the wrong tree/what replacement chip is now compatible given the age of the loco /should I just give up and send for repair - if so are Rapido the only reccomended option?

Again thanks to all for the patient replies and suggestions

Is this a stray wire strand or loose wire?

Quote from: ntpntpntp on Yesterday at 07:50:16 PMIs this a stray wire strand or loose wire?

Thanks for the input - I'm not sure the fault lies there. There are three red wired soldered connections to that PCB including the one in your blow up picture. I checked the working front driving car and it has the same set-up and the loco worked with a new DCC chip!

It's just a 6-pin interface. I assume that's what you've found?



You've a few options. The original sound project was done by Legomanbiffo - he still sells the sound project on 6-pin decoders here: https://www.dckits-devideos.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=221_251_229&product_id=1409

It won't be the same decoder, as the Loksound V4 Micro they used is now obsolete. You'll need to email them to request a single replacement, as they sell as pairs by default. They're very responsive.

You could also get the decoder repaired, I forget who the current agent for ESU is, but that may only be £35 or so.

Or you could stick a pair of silent 6-pin decoders in, and not have sound. I'd do both power cars or you'll have a horrible mismatch.

The only soldered connections should be from the decoder to the speaker. No soldering needed on the decoder (or the PCB), so installation isn't quite as daunting as it may seem.

njee20

yes 6 pin interface

as always that is super helpful!!

much appreciated

And, FWIW, I've had the body off one of my sound equipped ones for the first time.
Mine also has a single blue wire not connected to anything by the decoder, like item 1 in your photos.

Regards,

John P

Yes, you can see it in mine too. It's the common return, because you could just chop the 6-pin plug off and hardwire it. The 6-pin plug uses one pin as a common return.