Quote from: ntpntpntp on January 25, 2024, 09:40:12 AMI have used ferrules on occasion, but often my box of ferrules has vanished when I need them!

Aha, you have a tools/materials store just like mine 

Trouble is, I find that if I have a tidy up my chances of finding what I want decrease even more.

@Grassyfield  no problem to leave a bit of bare wire as long as it doesn't touch another wire.  foam and wood  are insulators (generally.  If they get very wet that can cause problems)

Nah it's not touching any thing just the foam of the trackbed and tiny bit of the wood of the baseboard. I have to wait till tomorrow to order my Decoder then im finally going to hopefully see my class 26 running!!!!!  


Thanks Buddy!!!!

Quote from: emjaybee on January 25, 2024, 09:17:32 AMI'd cut any bootlace ferrules off, remake with bare strand. They suffer the same problem as tinned ends, they have a propensity to work loose over time.

I find it easier to capture all the strands of a multi-strand wire in a bootlace ferrule than doing capturing all the strands under the screw of a terminal block - particularly when installing under a baseboard.

The added volume of the ferrule also helps fill the void within the terminal block (which should be as full as possible).

Ferrules are also handy if you're likely to need to remove the wire from the terminal block on a semi-regular basis as they're more robust than a twist of wire which eventually will get crushed and mangled.

I've used all three methods without major problems (other than needing to tighten screw terminals occasionally).


Steven B

If it's a dcc layout then avoid using screw terminals completely for dcc signal wiring.  Ideally, solder droppers directly to the bus wire. If you need to use terminal strips then solder tag strips are best - and it sounds like you are happy with soldering.  If you want to avoid soldering and must use terminal strips then Wago connectors are much better than screw terminals (and easier).

Every screw terminal joint adds to the impedance of the wiring and it will get worse over time. As the copper compresses the connection becomes looser and the copper will oxidize causing the impedance to increase further. It's only a small difference but if you're starting from scratch then every little bit of good practice can contribute to high quality problem free dcc wiring in the future.

Quote from: Steven B on January 25, 2024, 11:55:30 AM

Quote from: emjaybee on January 25, 2024, 09:17:32 AMI'd cut any bootlace ferrules off, remake with bare strand. They suffer the same problem as tinned ends, they have a propensity to work loose over time.

I find it easier to capture all the strands of a multi-strand wire in a bootlace ferrule than doing capturing all the strands under the screw of a terminal block - particularly when installing under a baseboard.

In industrial control panels, we use bootlace ferrules or other type of crimp-on ends, but they are terminated in proper terminals (not choc-block), that have self-locking mechanisms to stop the screw working loose.

Terminals with spring contacts (whether just sprung or lever-locked) are good for maintaining contact pressure, without having to worry about "creep". Indeed, they are the required way to install mains wiring, where a junction box will be inaccessible in the future and maintenance will not be possible.