Hello all, and after many years of no contact. As I said all that time long ago when I joined(years!!!) I'm a lapsed modeller. Last proper layout was 1993, but a couple of years ago I put down some test track and points and ran a few trains and loco's. Hmmm..... despite being firmly boxed and stored safely things don't seem to be working like they did 30 years ago. As you may guess most of my loco's are old Graham Farish all the way back to 1970's!! It's made me think I may be better off getting rid (not my Peco Jubilee!) and starting again, maybe also points and track of which I have a lot of. At my age (75)I will probably go DC so is it worth me reconsidering and getting the loco's repaired? I also thought of ready built baseboard, track and electrics, is the cost worth it? Size would be about 6x5x6/7 U shape approx and 2 foot wide. I have a fair amount of buildings ands scenic materials, would these be also out of date?

I'd say go to a few exhibitions and have a look at what's there, what's the same, what's new. Start with TINGS on 10/11 September if you can.

Those old locomotives may just need a bit of lubrication and running in ... but you'll probably need to clean the wheels a bit too. Dirty wheels make for poor running. I have an excellent little minitric device which just rests on the track and transmits power up to two long brass brushes. Apply power, hold the locomotive in place, and the wheels rotate against the bristles giving them a good clean.

Then make sure your track is meticulously clean. Don't use a track rubber ... use a solvent fluid such as meths or lighter fuel. Allply it liberally to the track with cotton buds (you'll be amazed how much gunk comes up, even after just one running session) and run your locomotives while the track's still moist with the stuff. It'll transfer to the wheels and help to keep them clean too. This is how we used to do it with teh Norwich club's big 4-track roundy roundy exhibition layout back in the early 90s, and the locos of the vintage you are referring to ran superbly as a result.

Modern controllers have come on apace too ... but they're designed with the modern locomotives in mind, For older locomotives you can't beat a good old H&M Duette (if you can get your hands on one) or a Gaugemaster E.

Best of luck with it, and welcome back to the fold!


p.s. 30 year old locomotives is nothing ... I'm happily running some 50+ year old locomotives.

Be warned that quite a few current production (steam) locos are fitted with traction tyres and they won't like either the Minitrix (abrasive) wheel cleaner or the fluid used for track cleaning.

After a gap of 15 years, like you I started again. I had 10 locos and all but one worked (a warship with a broken front end). The others were all Farish and were purchased in the 1980s. The track was/is Peco.

I re-used the track, but after advice on here, I upgraded one circuit to a 3rd radius curves.

I have sold on most of the locos (on Ebay , to finance brand new models) to upgrade to models that were not around in the 1980s. My remaining Farish locos have been restored to full working order by Dr Al of this forum.

The biggest problem that I have encountered is Dapol steam locos. I am your age group and I have issues with the drive shaft and the connecting cables that join the tender to the loco - that are very sensitive and break/disconnect quite easily. Others on here will disagree with the Dapol issue, but this is my experience with arthritic hands.

I re-used all of the old Kestrel and Peco buildings. The layout is on a standard internal door.

The best advice is to ask on here for help- there are a number of knowledgable persons  who will very readily give sound advice.

Regards


Geoff

I guess much depends on what you're happy with. I have many locos from those Poole times such as the 8F, 94xx, Castle and class 47s. They all run quite well but just can't compare to more recent models of the same class (OK - I'm comparing a 64xx with the 94xx). The only real casualties from my 1970s stock are 2 x class 101 DMUs which really are a bag of nails.
It doesn't prevent me giving these old relics a good run out at times but I do prefer more detailed models.
My track has been re-used over 35 years or more and still works just fine (Peco code 55).
I'm an old DC relic too as I don't want anything more.

Don't be in too much of a hurry to write off your old Farish locos. I was in the same situation as you - came back to the hobby after a gap of more than 20 years, and I was surprised how well some of my old locos ran after a good clean. I only have a couple of total refuseniks which will require more work when I have time. Don't forget also that they had superb pulling power, much better than some of today's light plastic-bodied products.

Quote from: PGN on August 21, 2022, 12:48:58 PM
For older locomotives you can't beat a good old H&M Duette (if you can get your hands on one)

If you want one, I've got one sitting in a cupboard! Still in good working order. Yours for the price of postage.

Cheers,

Chris

Not sure how to reply to individual reply-ers. but to Papyrus yes please to his kind offer of a H&M Duette.
Tell me your postage price and preferred method of payment. Also you'll need my address, FB message perhaps?
Thank you once again, top geezer!!

Quote from: brakevan on August 21, 2022, 05:05:46 PM
Not sure how to reply to individual reply-ers. but to Papyrus yes please to his kind offer of a H&M Duette.
Tell me your postage price and preferred method of payment. Also you'll need my address, FB message perhaps?
Thank you once again, top geezer!!

No need to go elsewhere to send a message, you can do it right here.

At the bottom of Papyrus' details on the left of his post is a row of icons - the right-hand one, looks like a speech bubble, will open a page to send him a personal message.

If your old locos worked ok all that time ago and they've just been stored, they can work just as well again with a little maintenance.  Wheel cleaning, *maybe* a tiny pinhead drop of lubricant but only if they really need it. Never over-lubricate models.  In fact you may find after a long time in storage previous lube may have spread to and contaminated the motor commutator and brushes - makes for a very recognisable smell when you try and run the model

30 years is not old, it's only 1990s after all.  As a Continental N modeller I still regularly run models made in the 70s onwards, though I would say they were better engineered than typical Farish of the time.   

Keep hold of your Peco Jubilee and look after it. Don't overload it and it will still serve you well. You can't get the motors anymore (and those Rivarossi motors have a reputation for melting the commutator if abused), but things like traction tyres are no problem. Watch out for the tender underframe plastic cracking.

Yes some models maybe have been superceded by more modern equivalents, with finer details etc. but not always better haulage power compared to the old solid metal bodies locos.

Definitely clean the track.   Contrary to what some will say, I would suggest use a traditional track rubber to burnish the tarnished rails if they've been stored for years. More effective than using liquids etc.  (Just don't press hard as that's how you get loose particles left behind).

I'm a fan of the Minitrix wheel cleaner and have used them since the 70s.  It's simple to use and effective, again don't press at all hard just turn up the power enough to turn the loco wheels and gently rest and rub the loco back and forth. Unless you've got diesels or electric locos in your fleet I doubt you'll have many with traction tyres other than the Jubilee, and that particular loco doesn't work with the Minitrix cleaner anyway due to its split pickups.

Whilst that is a kind offer by @Papyrus  to get you going I wouldn't consider the old H&M Duette as a suitable controller in the long term. It'll run your locos but:  a) the Half-Wave setting is far too rough on small motors and makes them run noisily so stick to Full Wave; b) stick to the High Resistance setting as Low Resistance won't give you enough control (it simply bypasses part of the resistance mat behind the knob). The overload cutout is tuned too high to protect small motors properly.   The Duette and related H&M controllers were designed for larger scale models (OO and O) of the 1960s which drew more current.  I still have the cases of my old H&Ms but fitted more modern Gaugemaster controller electronics back in the 1990s.

some hints:

Bath Rubbers ( Amazon et al) are less prone to shed bits on the track.

use a 9v PP3 battery to test the locos - a squirt of contact cleaner / Brake cleaner spray  can shift dirt..no more oil per loco than the amount that will fill the gap between 2 cogwheel teeth!

invest in a modern controller - Any Gaugemaster will do - this one is good value ( discounted at most good retailers)

https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/magento/model-railways/gaugemaster-controls-brand5/gaugemaster-gmc-combi.html


Don't use Relco-type track cleaners - pitted track and wheels, and bad for DCC locos.

you can find details of local clubs and shows here:

https://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/events

if all else fails - ask - all N Gauge knowledge is here ( on NGF) and nothing is too trivial to ask ( also use search box at top of page )

Best wishes

Nick