I recently got a BachFar SECR N Class, and was delighted to find it had come with some head code disks. However; while I want to use them, I don't want to glue them in place, since then I can only run it with that type of train.

I was therefore thinking of getting some black-tac and using that to hold them in place and have them be removable so I can run any configuration I'd like.

But I have an issue with this idea, that being; I have no idea how adhesive black-tac actually is. I know it's far stronger than blu-tac, but by how much?

My main worry is that I could accidentally rip the lamp irons off the loco.

I'd suggest a tiny blob of copydex or tacky-wax rather than black-tac.

Quote from: ntpntpntp on July 09, 2022, 02:09:05 PM
I'd suggest a tiny blob of copydex or tacky-wax rather than black-tac.

What are, umm, what are those? I've never heard of either of those things...

Copydex is a rubber/latex based glue, been around for many decades.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Copydex-Bottle-Adhesive-125-ml/dp/B0001OZIFW

Tacky-Wax I've not used personally, but I know modellers use it for various non-permanent purposes

https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/tacky-wax

Quote from: ntpntpntp on July 09, 2022, 03:36:03 PM
Copydex is a rubber/latex based glue, been around for many decades.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Copydex-Bottle-Adhesive-125-ml/dp/B0001OZIFW

Tacky-Wax I've not used personally, but I know modellers use it for various non-permanent purposes

https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/tacky-wax

Thank you for thee explanations. I don't think I'll be using either of those though...

I don't want to use glue, since I'f want to be able to move them around. And Tacky-Wax needing to be removed with warm water isn't filling me with confidence, since it'd mean I'd be regularly pouring water over metal and delicate electronics. I don't want to damange my loco's mechisim with rust or electrical shorts.

Though, I thank you for the suggestions!

I'm going to see if I can do it with some regular blu-tac.

Copydex would be fine, and I'm sure Tacky-Wax isn't that permanent. I know people use both of those substances on couplings to increase grip without being a permanent joint. 

You'd only be using a tiny little blob applied with a cocktail stick, certainly no need to immerse anything in water to remove it.

How about Pritt "the non-sticky sticky stuff!" ?

https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/pritt-stick-22g/p/1793440

Blu-tac leaves a residue, I know this from using it for posters as a teen in the 1970s, and for office posters rather more recently

White tack is stickier, doesn't  suffer from brewer's droop, and is  a much better product than blue tack.

A tiny bit will suffice

As I happened to have some left-over from tree making, I'm using a small spot of Woodland Scenics Hob-e-Tac on the back of all my lamps - as it stays sticky, even when cured. Would work for headcode disks, too.

Another vote for Hob-e-Tac, I also use it on couplings that won't stay together.

I've never been able to get Tacky Wax to work, I don't know whether I have an old tub of it but it certainly isn't tacky at all.