how best to get a Gloucester twin unit?

mr magnolia · December 11, 2011, 11:50:54 PM

I appreciate that I can't spell, and I will fix that title soon, but meantime, I'm holding off buying a Farish 101 or 108 as I really want a decent DMU representative of 1958/59 Edinburgh/waverley route, and that means a gloucester twin DMU

But how do I best get one? Buy one of the rtrs and bodge it? Or wait for the secret model that hasn't been released?
Thanks in advance.
Edit- spelling!

Newportnobby · December 12, 2011, 08:34:56 AM

Dunno the answer to the question, but the spelling is spot on

mr magnolia · December 12, 2011, 09:33:00 AM

I had to look it up twice! Tricky place....

Newportnobby · December 12, 2011, 05:18:24 PM

Quote from: mr magnolia on December 12, 2011, 09:33:00 AM
I had to look it up twice! Tricky place....

Not to be confused with a Gloster Meteor

EtchedPixels · December 12, 2011, 06:41:58 PM

I think it will indeed be be a bodgit job. I'm not aware of any class 100 even in kit form.

So either a pair of Farish mark 1 coaches, custom ends and something like a 101 DMU chassis or perhaps the old printed side Farish 101 might be easiest as you can then get the sides done as vinyls by Electra or similar.

Partly the choice is going to depend on the profile - were they flat sided like the 101s or curved like the Mark 1 coaches etc ?

mr magnolia · December 13, 2011, 02:08:03 PM

hmm, thanks mr pixels. I think I may steer clear of bodgits meantime, until confidence and practice allow a good bodgit to be tackled!

Zunnan · December 13, 2011, 02:47:07 PM

Their tumbleholm is unlike both Mk1 stock and the class 101, it looks more akin to that of the LMS Staniers, but even then something seems a bit off. The best bet may be to use the Mike Howarth 57ft clear bodyshells and have vinyls printed up for the sides, at least that way the length will be right (57'6", so 57' body plus 1mm for cab end to be added) and the profile should be fairly close to the mark.

EtchedPixels · December 13, 2011, 04:16:25 PM

Quote from: Zunnan on December 13, 2011, 02:47:07 PM
Their tumbleholm is unlike both Mk1 stock and the class 101, it looks more akin to that of the LMS Staniers, but even then something seems a bit off. The best bet may be to use the Mike Howarth 57ft clear bodyshells and have vinyls printed up for the sides, at least that way the length will be right (57'6", so 57' body plus 1mm for cab end to be added) and the profile should be fairly close to the mark.

Howarth bodyshells are 60' in 2mm (so about 59' in N) but that's a good idea, and the Howarth ones saw up quite nicely to shorter lengths.

Still leaves the noses but thats the kind of thing that can be produced by playing around with card, plasticard, or other materials until something works.

GlenEglise · December 07, 2020, 05:12:03 PM

Quote from: EtchedPixels on December 12, 2011, 06:41:58 PM
I think it will indeed be be a bodgit job. I'm not aware of any class 100 even in kit form.

So either a pair of Farish mark 1 coaches, custom ends and something like a 101 DMU chassis or perhaps the old printed side Farish 101 might be easiest as you can then get the sides done as vinyls by Electra or similar.

Partly the choice is going to depend on the profile - were they flat sided like the 101s or curved like the Mark 1 coaches etc ?

Bodies now available on Recreation 21 Shapeways shop. Class 100; Class 109; Class 120 & Class 126.

http://www.rue-d-etropal.com/3D-printing/3d_printed_sg-trains2-br.htm

GE

NGS-PO · December 07, 2020, 05:49:02 PM

As mentioned elsewhere I asked R d T to produce these for me and I have a Gloucester set on order so will report back on impressions when it arrives.

I am intending on using a 122/121 chassis (powered and Dummy) for powered and non-powered chassis....

Best

Scott.

GlenEglise · December 08, 2020, 12:49:37 AM

Quote from: NGS-PO on December 07, 2020, 05:49:02 PM
As mentioned elsewhere I asked R d T to produce these for me and I have a Gloucester set on order so will report back on impressions when it arrives.

I am intending on using a 122/121 chassis (powered and Dummy) for powered and non-powered chassis....

Best

Scott.

Hi Scott, I was about to order a Class 100 and had asked Simon about an appropriate chassis. He couldn't reliably say but suggested a that someone obtaining the Class 100 may have suggested a Tomytec 27 but I looked that up!

Certainly didn't seem likely!

I'll await your report on using the 122/121 combination and go from there.

Please keep the thread updated.

Regards,

GE

Steven B · December 08, 2020, 08:48:04 AM

You might struggle with a class 121/122 chassis for the Gloucester class 100 units.

Dapol's class 121/122 are 63' long, whilst the Class 100 is 57' 6" over the body shell.

The Farish 101 or 108 would be a better starting point.

Steven B.

NGS-PO · December 08, 2020, 09:14:38 AM

Yes but the underframe and power unit of the 121/122 appears more accurate, the 100 and the 121/122 appearing largely identical. My plan was to do a cut and shut to reduce the length and to make it work as well as possible.

BUt I haven't investigated further than a general idea, so it may be that the best solutuon is a ~~combination of the two.~~

Best

Scott.

Scratch all of that, the 121/122s are for a different project. My own wires were crossed. Steven you are correct, and that's why I have a supply of donor 101s.

As you were.

Best

Scott.

NGS-PO · December 08, 2020, 10:07:18 AM

Arrived this morning:

I will give them a was and a clean this evening and a shot of primer and see how bad teh stratification is.

Best

Scott.

GlenEglise · December 08, 2020, 02:28:30 PM

Quote from: NGS-PO on December 08, 2020, 09:14:38 AM

Scratch all of that, the 121/122s are for a different project. My own wires were crossed. Steven you are correct, and that's why I have a supply of donor 101s.

As you were.

Best

Scott.

Just as well I held off then! I did look up the sizes and was convinced it must be 101's by Farish.

I don't need 121's or 122's laying around.

GE