I may have a play around with a new layout next weekend and see what I can come up with.

All of this advice is invaluable.  Thank you.  I would have had quite a few problems if I hadn't had it.

Cheers.

I would suggest either Peco code 55 finescale flexitrack with small electrofrog points (SLE391/2) or code 80 streamline flexitrack with medium electrofrog points (no smaller ones in code 80).
Code 80 connects perfectly to set track as set track is also code 80.

Quote from: ntpntpntp on November 05, 2017, 04:46:58 PM
Most stock will get through ST points ok.
I've read that some folk have had real problems with some of the latest British N models through ST points.

Experience tells me the larger UK steam locos and maybe even some large UK diesels won't like set track points. These are just my models though and, as each loco is handmade, some other folks may have no problems with theirs. Conversely, many small wheelbase locos will stall on the plastic frog of set track points.

I started my journey with zero knowledge about a year ago, and am for sure no expert but can share my novice observations learnt along the way so far.

Firstly, I spent a long time in the planning phase, reading pretty much anything and everything I could find, and tweaking endless layout plans using SCARM. I had an objective of squeezing as much operational interest as I could in a 6' x 3' space. On the whole, it was time well spent, and I fell it saved me time and effort overall, but there does come a time when you have to start building and trying things out in order to progress.

I decided to go the MERG route for the hardware to control the layout, ( www.merg.co.uk ) and I found the two large pdf's that can be found on their web page invaluable. These run to many 100's of pages and  cover many aspects of the electrical and wiring considerations when planning and building a layout.

I use DCC and  followed the general rule of one power tap per section of track - not relying on the joiners to conduct the power - and have found I have a reliable set up in that respect as a result. I used PECO flexitrack throughout.

With regards to point motors - I use the Cobalt IP motors too - they work fine and have been reliable, but a word of warning - they are quite noisy  ( at least mine are ) so if you think that may worry you, find a layout that uses them and have a listen before committing to buy ( or buy one first just to try it ).

I agree with the advice that is better to use larger radius points if you can - I have a mix of small and large radius points on mine - I use the small ones due to small space constraint. My modelling era is 70's so I have all diesel/dmu units which will run over the sharper radius points - but my recent purchase of a steam loco struggles on some of the sharper radius points - I am sure they are fine if perfectly laid down, but the steam loco is more sensitive to any slight poor layout when using the sharper points.

I use insulfrog everywhere and have no issues - although I would if I used a short wheelbase loco such as a shunter ( I have a diesel class20 which is pretty short and that is fine )

After 12 months, I have a layout which is now fully signalled with 3 aspect signals, and trains running automatically using the (free) JMRI software.
I am just starting to build station platforms, start track ballasting and some sort of attempt at the overall scenery.

It never fails to amaze may how "I will just spend a couple of minutes tinkering" becomes a whole evening's session.

That's really useful daversmth.  Thank you.

I must admit that I'm stuck now:  I've got a 5' x 3' baseboard.  Like daversmth, I want to create as much interest as I can in that space and I like the look of this type of layout https://www.scarm.info/layouts/track_plans.php?ltp=102 (I must stress that I'm not as knowledgeable as you guys are.  At the risk of being a philistine, I'm not too worried about authenticity or an era.  I want to make something that 'looks good.')

I'm taking the advice not to use ST points but I'm now back to square one with regard to the layout, despite making a lot of progress with understanding wiring.

I'm now planning to use flexitrack but I don't understand what's compatible with it (points etc).  I'm also not sure what my maximum radius should be. 

I'm finding that every time I think I'm pretty much there, I find something else that sets me back.  I'm happy to either design my own layout or just use an existing one but the last thing that I want is to buy all of the track and then find that I need to chuck it all out and start again.

Thanks, as always, for your help everyone.  You've all saved me a lot of wasted time, wasted money and stress.

Quote from: fudduk on November 20, 2017, 07:46:50 PM
I'm now planning to use flexitrack but I don't understand what's compatible with it (points etc).  I'm also not sure what my maximum radius should be. 

"maximum radius" is whatever you can fit within your available baseboard space, and of course with flexi track you can create whatever radius you want, with smooth "transition curves" rather than going directly from straight track into curves.  As a minimum radius, these days people suggest don't go all the way down to 9" as some modern locos and stock struggle, even though it always used to be the deFacto standard minimum. Anyway, models look better on larger radius so always use the largest you can accommodate.

As far as what's compatible with flexitrack, well any other track and points which are the same rail code (eg. code 80) can be joined to it.  It's usually best to stick to a single manufacturer, eg. Peco, just to avoid changes in style of track.

Can I recommend these :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/N-gauge-tracksetta/112642927560?hash=item1a3a0aabc8:g:b-oAAOSwbtNaDJgC

Tracksettas are great for getting curves nicely laid in Flexitrack.  I went for years without investing in any, and my layouts were always a bit "rough and ready".  The above offers 9" radius, and 12" radius.  You put them on the inside of your flexitrack and lay the track with them in place.  Your curves will be nice and smooth.

I always use them now.

Andy
UK

Thanks for that both of you. 

Sorry ntpntpntp, the 'maximum radius' was an error on my part: I meant minimum.  You answered my question anyway, so thank you.

I can see the logic in using those Andy.  I'll see how I get on. 

Not sure if this helps, but my layout is 6' x 3' , 73 x 38 inches to be precise, and I have been posting progress at
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=34463.msg400365#msg400365

It really does, thanks daversmth.  I've bookmarked it and will check back regularly for tips.  Thank you.

Have you considered using Kato Unitrack? It has many supporters here.

It is ideal for a first layout - bulletproof, it just works, and if you are not happy with layout, rip it apart and start again! It can be linked to flexitrack if you want.

Points have metal frogs so slow running is fine.

Starter kits are readily available From NGF supporters, s/h track is a good buy, and if you decide that you want Peco, it has a good resale value ( unlike s/h Peco track!)

It can be sceniced and easily used for a permanent layout.

There is an extensive thread of advice and information here

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?board=131.0

Thanks railwaygun.  I'll check it out.

I second what Railwaygun says  (Can you tell that I am one of the supporters). My first, (small), layout was done using Peco track, my current, (much bigger), layout is being done with Kato track and, using a fine tooth saw, you can make your own flexible track, (sort of  ). Bob Fifer - www.fiferhobby.com - has some excellent tutorials on using Kato track.

I agree with other posts that DCC Concepts Cobalt point motors are the way to go. Also the DCC Concepts website has loads of advice and "how to" pages. I have followed much of their advice with satisfying results.

From the advice given on here and from looking around online, maybe Kato is the way to go.  The only thing is that I'd gotten my head around how to ballast Peco track but when I've looked at videos online, it seems that the advice is different for Kato.  Is that correct?

Also, are there any track sections of Kato that should be avoided like I was advised to avoid set-track points on Peco?

Thank you

Hi there, Kato does not need ballasting although you can try and make it look more realistic. Kato points have there own motors which I believe are very good, so no need for Cobalts. On my own layout I am using Peco code 55 finescale track, on my first layout I used code 80. I find code 55 easier to use and you have more choice of points, I also use Cobalt motors with the livee frog connected to one of the switches, mine are so quiet I have to look to check if the point has changed. Its all personel choice, whichever way you choose there is lots of advice on here.