That's good advice Nick: thanks.  I hadn't really thought about that.  I'm someone who likes railways rather than someone who knows lots about them so that's the sort of thing that didn't occur to me.  I'l put i on the 'to do' list.   

I echo everything Nick says.  You can run anything you like, it's your railway or railroad.  But it may be an idea to say something along the lines of

70% British
30% Other.

It will give you a direction you can work towards.

Andy
UK

Hi Iain

Any updates?  Have you decided what you are going to model, or which system you'd like to use?

Andy
UK

Thanks for all of your help everyone.  I have now made some decisions:

- I'm going to use Peco track
- I'm going to use Cobalt turnout motors
- I'm going to use insulfrog points.

I'm going to buy the above online and then look more locally for the wires etc.  I'm also going to get a DCC controller when I've saved up some more money.  Is there anything else I need?  I'm pretty sure there is but I'm not sure what it is.

Thanks,

Iain

Quote from: fudduk on November 05, 2017, 01:27:57 PM
- I'm going to use insulfrog points.

Can I ask why?  If you're going to the expense of Cobalt point motors (which have a built in polarity switch I believe) why stop short of using live frog points?  Much better for slow running, and simple enough to wire in. The basic principle is isolate both rails of the V and add a frog wire.

The reason that I was going to go for insulfrog was because I watched a video saying that if you were inexperienced, then the insulfrog points were much simpler.  I haven't ordered anything yet though so I'm open to advice on either the points or the motor.

Quote from: fudduk on November 05, 2017, 03:54:54 PM
The reason that I was going to go for insulfrog was because I watched a video saying that if you were inexperienced, then the insulfrog points were much simpler.

"much simpler" - no, not really. Live frogs are not complicated to deal with once you understand the principles. There are a more few situations where you can get away without isolating rail joiners (IRJs) if you use insulfrog, but if you're thinking of going DCC then you'll most likely need to fit IRJs in the same places that you would for electrofrog points because of the need for power feeds to the track beyond the point.   You'll need to try and avoid back-feeding power through the frog to the point blades.

You don't even *have* to use a frog dropper wire and polarity change-over with electrofrog, but it's better than simply relying on point blade contact.

The benefits of better running - especially for small short-wheelbase locos - should outweigh any perceived complications.    Once you have a layout diagram drawn up, there are plenty of folk on here who can advise best placement of power feeds and IRJs etc. if you're not sure.

Okay Nick.  Thanks.  I'll take your advice on that and get electrofrog points.

I have to agree that if you are going to the time and trouble of point motors, then you ought to give electrofrog a go.  Use them the same as you would with the insulfrog, but when it comes to laying the points, make sure you have plastic fishplates on the two inside tracks, and normal fishplates on the two outside tracks, where the two tracks split off.

You can see on Youtube more about this.  Your locos will run more smoothly through electrofrog points, but the problem is that as they have been installed on your layout, they get dirt on the blades, and it takes a lot more effort to keep them clean for smooth running, especially with DCC.

But, that's way down the road at this stage!  Don't let anything I said put you off.  There are remedies for most problems, and you only have us guys at the other end of your computer if you still need help or advice! 

Andy
UK

Thanks Andy.  I designed my layout with Peco ST-5, ST-6 and SL-395 points in the layout.  From a quick look online, it looks like there aren't electrofrog equivalents.  Is it a case of re-designing the layout with different points rather than slotting the new points into the existing layout?

Quote from: texhorse on November 05, 2017, 04:16:25 PM
... the problem is that as they have been installed on your layout, they get dirt on the blades, and it takes a lot more effort to keep them clean for smooth running, especially with DCC.

Same problem applies to insulfrog points in that respect, however with DCC you have the advantage of constant full voltage to the track (whereas with DC it's the low voltage slow running which suffers when dirt is present).

To be honest, dirt build up depends on the environment in which the layout resides.  I've just re-assembled my exhibition layout after exactly a year in storage in its "coffins" in a garage, and all it's needed is a light burnish of the fiddleyard tracks which were left exposed. The main layout trackwork is still shiny, so has not been cleaned at all and is running just fine on good old DC.  My pointwork is all live frog with polarity switches for the frog, hence I very rarely see any actual problems with point blade dirt.

There isnt a electro frog equivalent of the ST-5 and 6 as these are set track points and are best avoided if possible as not all stock likes running though set track points.

Quote from: fudduk on November 05, 2017, 04:20:03 PM
I designed my layout with Peco ST-5, ST-6 and SL-395 points in the layout.

Ah... so you've used the Setrack points out of necessity (space constraints)?  In that case you don't have much choice.    On the other hand, if you do have space for larger radius points then it's always best to use the largest you can (and then of course go electrofrog!)

To be honest, I'm doing all of my research before spending any money.  I had a trackplan that I was happy with but I can easily throw it out of the window and start again.  All I'm committed to is my 5'x3' baseboard.

Quote from: fudduk on November 05, 2017, 04:34:16 PM
I had a trackplan that I was happy with but I can easily throw it out of the window and start again.

The last thing any of us would want to do is discourage you from your efforts!   Most stock will get through ST points ok.  I have them in my fiddleyard (purely for space-saving).  They've been in place for 22 years. It's true that a couple of my longest steam locos struggle slightly through them, but otherwise they've done the job. I wish they were electrofrog though.

I've read that some folk have had real problems with some of the latest British N models through ST points.  I run European N where it's pretty much given that manufacturers need to support 9 inch radius (and even tighter!) because of the existing customer base.   I ran a Dapol Britannia on my layout yesterday, and found I needed to modify and lengthen the coupling between loco and tender to guarantee it ran round 9" curves.   The next time I need to build a fiddleyard I'll go for minimum 12" radius and electrofrog points.