Hello,


After reading a bit around this forum, I decided to join up so I could get some questions answered and generally see if my research I've done in preparing for a new layout in N scale is correct or at least "good" research (items used, DCC system etc).

Backstory: I'm an American, but I've been absolutely fascinated with British railways for a very long time. I was fortunate to visit the UK twice in the past few years and decided on my last visit that I was going to model it in N scale. A few Graham Farish models were bought whilst I was in the UK in 2013, and a few more ordered in 2014. I've finally gotten around to planning out a small n scale layout out of some old IKEA tables my wife "retired" so I can finally let them run in a proper setting. (LNER B1 BR Black, LNER Peppercorn A1 BR Green, BR Standard 5MT BR Black and Class 08 Green, with a few goods wagons, BR maroon Stanier coaches and Mk 1 coaches also in maroon).

Here are my questions regarding my research:

I've decided to go with Digitrax DCC (and decoders) for my locos. I know I'll have to convert the 08, but the others should be DCC Ready. I plan on purchasing the Zephyr Starter Set. I think that'll get me going. That's a good starting point, right? Do any of you guys have experience with Digitrax systems and Decoders? I've seen pretty positive remarks on them.

I'm also going to be using Peco Electrofrog switches. I've read many different suggestions on wiring them, however, I think I'll be using Seep PM-1 motors  and power the frog via them instead of isolating the frog from the rest of the switch. I've seen in more than a few places that some swear you *have* to do that and others that say you *don't have* to do that. I plan on using DC control for the switches over DCC. I might eventually transfer them over, but for now, I like the idea of having a "manual" signalman since it'll fit the era I'm working in.

It seems Peco Code 80 and Code 55 will work together, but the Code 55 will need some height adjustment, are there any other pitfalls to having a mixed system or is it recommended that you use all of one or all of the other? I know aesthetically the answer would be use one or the other, no mix, but still...

I'm not worried about the electrical side of things, I work in electronic automation, so that side of things is quite straight forward.

I've also decided that since I'm using two different old retired dinner tables that I'm going to keep it "modular" I don't have the most space and if I had to pack it up, I'd like to be able to do that. Are there any recommendations on retrofitting the tables or with the track itself to help facilitate that?

I'm doing my best to plan out exactly what I'll need as far as equipment, track, electronic needs etc before i go purchase so I don't end up getting stuff I don't need or not enough of other things. Additionally, what's the most useful tool you can think of that doing this would be difficult. I would like to think that would be a dremel and a soldering iron, but I'm sure there are others I can't think of...

Thank you!

-Drew

As you are here in the US Tortoise point motors are a better bet than Seeps.
They use a motor rather than a solenoid and are readily available here.

Code 55 looks better than Code 80 and many people here have used both in a single layout.

DCC controllers are a subjective thing. My personal taste says that US products look 'clunky' and I prefer European designs, I have a Z21.

You'll probably need a set of Jewelers screwdrivers and a drill. Also a fine tip soldering iron fior when you need to add wired decoders to models.

Regards,

John P

Hi Drew, and welcome to the forum

I'll leave the DCC stuff to others as I'm an old DC fartdinosaur.
The preferred point motor seems to be either Seep, Cobalt or Tortoise. Each have their good and bad aspects.
Trackwise I'd stick with one format, and my preferred track is Peco code 55, especially as they do a small electrofrog point which, being 12" radius, I find everything passes through with no issues. In code 80 there is no small point unless you go for set track and I'd avoid that like the plague.
Kato Unitrack is also worth considering due to its simplicity. The deep ballast base can be easily disguised.
As for tools, an adjustable temperature soldering station is pretty much a must. For track laying the ones I use most are Xuron track cutters and tracksettas to ensure constant curves and straights.

Hope this helps a little

Hello there

One thing I do find useful, when laying track, which I guess a few others do too, is a small hand mirror; like a lady may have in her handbag...
It lets you see all sorts of kinks and dog-legs your normal eye seem to overlook

Hi Drew and welcome aboard,

I am another DC runner, so cannot help you there but one item I would recommend is a re-railer. It makes getting your stock onto your track so much easier.

Cheers John.

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=3280.0
Look at this for a different track option. If you are going for a smaller layout it's worth considering as you are starting from scratch. As for tools, yes a soldering iron and a set of small tools like fine screwdrivers, pliers. Here you can pick up a set in a Chinese shop cheaply and as you progress upgrade them to better quality.
Good luck with your project and keep on asking questions here and of course 

Hi Drew, welcome . ! An  American doing Brit n gauge is quite unusual ,
there are other US  geezers on the forum.any queries
about the quirky uk rail  system and modelling fire away !

G'day from Australia, Drew, and welcome to the NGF! 

Peco track is the choice of most British modellers, although Kato has a growing following. Starting from scratch, I would go with Code 55. Of course, depending on how far you want to take the hobby, you could start with Code 40! Be aware though that the points (or switches, as you call them where you live) have to be assembled.

Once again, welcome aboard. 

Thank you all for your responses and kind welcoming! I really very much appreciate the suggestions and input on my plans!

It seems to me that Code 55 is the way to go as far as track is concerned. Definitely will have to get some small glasses level/jewelry level screwdrivers. I had to pick up a small kit to repair a broken solder point in my Class 08 diesel, but I'll definitely need more variety!

I'll do my best to not make a complete wreck of my interpretation of the UK (specifically early 1960s British Railways). I'm sure I'll definitely be reaching out for opinion and clarification of prototypical operations and design elements, but the overall idea is that this will be a fictional route, I've nominally planned for a double track loop, with a station area with a branch bay platform with a small branch line that runs to one end of the layout and terminates. I'll add goods sidings wherever it seems to fit, but I think I'm going for a junction station to rural setting for the branch and mainline. The greatest difficulty I can see is getting my hands on UK scenery and other items that might not always be available online. I'm already thinking I'll have to scratch build an awful lot of different stuff, but I think can do it, just need loads of photographs!

@Agrippa: Yeah, I know that not many Americans would jump at UK Railways, but I've always loved how unique they are compared to the rest of the world and their history is fantastic! I also grew up surrounded in one way or another with UK railway items. One of the first real train sets my family had when I was very little was a OO/HO gauge Cornish Rivera Express set which came with a GWR Castle Class loco, and four Hawksworth (I think) coaches. I still have the set to this day. I just hope I'll be able to the UK justice in my replication of it for my layout without offending anyone!   

Drew

I think the only reason one might consider Peco code 80 over Peco code 55 is that the former connects directly to Peco set track. Peco 55 has points and flex track, but no set track components. Making joins on tightish curves (i.e. 20" radius or less) with flex track is a bit tricky as the joins tend to kink. The solution is to solder the track pieces together. If you are comfortable with a soldering iron, then code 55 has no disadvantages compared to 80, and also has the advantages that is more robust as part of the track is set into the sleeper base and it looks better too.

Webbo

Many modellers of my ilk model the early British scene, me included.

You've come to the right place!

We have at least 4 members in the US modelling UK outline.
'N-Gauge-US' is in North Carolina as is 'Mustermark', while 'Chetcombe' is in Philadelphia and '47033' is in Virginia.*
I would imagine Chetcombe's layout will be the more interesting for you due to the era being modelled.

*Apologies to anyone else I may have missed.

  and welcome
As I am italian I've also been fascinated with British Railways and now I'm brit modeller....as DCC user, after tested on my layout Arnold Central 86210' ' Roco Lokmaus and Lenz set 90, I decided to switch to Z21 central (black)....
Greetings from Italy

Marco

Personally I use digitrax controllers and chips in my farish and dapol locos, although I would recommend looking towards the tc electronics chips for 08 and 04 shutters although a dz126 can be shoe horned in. And questions feel free to reply or message.

Before you start buying track, check out places like Hattons in the UK.
In my experience its cheaper to buy track in bulk from them and have it delivered, than buying it in the US.

Regards,

John P