Friends,

I couldn't find anything directly connected so I'll ask?

Using Peco First radius Setrack, are there any steam locomotives that will not negotiate the curvature?

I will HAVE to replace my doorway crossing bridge with curved track and straights at the joins because loco's cross one way but not the other with the trackwork at an angle!

Regards, Peter

A lot of modern Farish steam locos say in the instructions that the minimum radius is 10.5 inches (first radius set track is 9 inches IIRC).

Cheers, Mike

Quote from: red_death on October 12, 2015, 05:04:00 PM
A lot of modern Farish steam locos say in the instructions that the minimum radius is 10.5 inches (first radius set track is 9 inches IIRC).

Cheers, Mike

Unfortunately I haven't got any Farish steam locos but it is something I will consider if and when purchasing at a later date!

Any known models that you can quote?

Peter.

Steam engines are not really my kettle (groan) of fish, but things like the Royal Scot/Jubilee etc and anything more recent (and large eg I suspect a Duchess) I think has specified 10.5 inch minimum radius. Having said which just because Farish specify that does not always mean that locos won't go round tighter curves.

Cheers, Mike

In my experience the following struggle with 1st radius curves:

Dapol GWR Hall
Dapol GWR Grange
Dapol GWR 45xx prarie
Dapol LNER A3

Graham Farish Coronation (when running tender first)
Graham Farish Hall - final run with large bogie wheels (when running forwards).

If I think of or find any others I'll let you know.

Add the Dapol 28xx to that list too. I sent mine back for a refund when it struggled on 2nd radius, let alone 1st. Dapol have since said at shows that their locos aren't really suitable for less than 10" Radius curves, although they still have yet to put that on the boxes.

I don't think I have any Farish steamers which will not go round 9" (1st radius) curves. This includes the latest Duchess which, as I said in my review of it, will go round but looks somewhat sheepish doing it
Dapol are a different matter and, although some others may have had success, these are my 'no-no' ones:-

Britannia
A4
9F
28xx

Even my Q1s struggle.

My Dapol Ivatt 2-6-2T, 45xx and 14xx give me no problems

Hope this helps, Peter

Quote from: Zwilnik on October 12, 2015, 07:17:28 PM
Add the Dapol 28xx to that list too. I sent mine back for a refund when it struggled on 2nd radius, let alone 1st. Dapol have since said at shows that their locos aren't really suitable for less than 10" Radius curves, although they still have yet to put that on the boxes.

Interesting, my Dapol 28XX seems to cope fine with 1st radius curves.

Quote from: johnlambert on October 12, 2015, 08:08:38 PM

Quote from: Zwilnik on October 12, 2015, 07:17:28 PM
Add the Dapol 28xx to that list too. I sent mine back for a refund when it struggled on 2nd radius, let alone 1st. Dapol have since said at shows that their locos aren't really suitable for less than 10" Radius curves, although they still have yet to put that on the boxes.

Interesting, my Dapol 28XX seems to cope fine with 1st radius curves.

That's part of the fun of the Dapol steamers. My Hall fell off on any left hand curve but handled 9" radius right turns happily. One driving wheel was slightly tilted on its axle and the usual issue of the wires to the tender getting caught on one side. After a lot of fettling, it can do at least a few circuits without de-railing, but a lot of the issues are essentially poor mechanical design.

If you type a specific farish steam engine into google (for example "farish J39") you should see a link to a PDF on the Bachmann website, which is the instructions you get in the box. For both of my farish locos it gives me the recommended minimum curve radius. I know its not a list but its useful if you had anything specific in mind. Also some will go round curves smaller than the recommended minimum, but in the case of my J39 its not pretty to watch.

I've found far greater issues with set track points than with 1st radius track.

Quote from: Kris on October 14, 2015, 07:30:25 AM
I've found far greater issues with set track points than with 1st radius track.

thank you for your reply but I had not intended using Setrack points at all only the 1st radius curves due to lack of space.

Peter.

Hi,   I have three of the new Farish Duchesses and together with my other Farish steam locomotives, they all go round my 1st. radius curves.
Regards, Ken.

I'm starting to worry about buying a new steam locomotive!

All of the above posts are informative, if somewhat contradictory. The way I interpret them is that you can probably get away with tight curves on flat baseboard, but Peter is talking about baseboard joins here.

Quote from: Bealman on October 14, 2015, 09:18:34 AM
I'm starting to worry about buying a new steam locomotive!

All of the above posts are informative, if somewhat contradictory. The way I interpret them is that you can probably get away with tight curves on flat baseboard, but Peter is talking about baseboard joins here.

Sorry misinterpretation, either that or I didn't give sufficient initial information?

I tried having oblique joins across the doorway connecting bridge and found that my locomotives would run perfectly in one direction but not the opposite!  (MY layout is NON prototypical, I just like running trains)  This was due to the sharp ends of the track catching any wheel traversing against them.

My predicament is then that I have insufficient space on one end of the bridge to accommodate one outer track at 12" inch radius plus another inside, therefore I HAVE to utilise a 9" radius or have a track nestling up to the sleepers or even interlacing sleepers with the 12" inch radius which would look most odd!  (I am using Setrack because my configuring of curves by eye is rubbish and I am not going to buy any tracksetta gauges merely for a one-off use)

What I HAVE HAD to do is use some short straight Setrack sections either side of the joint (For their inherent rigidity) but this is impossible on one side of the bridge due to lack of space.  Therefore the track crosses the gap and immediately enters a curve to get it round onto the main baseboard.

It could be argued that I should decrease the width of the bridge and I agree that that would be easier BUT I still have to get my bulk between the ends of the tracks and losing 2-3 inches either side would compromise my safe passage! 

(Before anyone says anything I have lost 23 Kgs in the last 6 months and my waistline is reduced but not as much as would be regarded as slim!)

That in a nutshell is why I am plundering with the 1st radius track and the possibility of using it to solving my problerm but it does appear that more problems are arising because of my wishes!!!

Peter.