Quote from: Tdm on April 07, 2015, 09:12:14 PM
Oh and by the way - I shall probably come in for criticsmn for saying this - but you don't necessarily need a "fiddle yard" if you want continuous running - I don't have one - just lots of sidings.

I agree - I tend to think that fiddle yards are a bit of a fiddle and that everything should be done on the main layout...

FW, I suggest you visit a few model railway shows - there are bound to be a few coming up in your part of the south coast. You will get an idea of the sort of things other people have done and get a few ideas. And talk to people - you should get a sensible answer to even the most basic questions because we were all beginners once.

Go for it and have fun!

Chris

Agree with pretty much all the above ... my thoughts though :

• The controller is a very personal piece of kit ... some like the general type as seen in your starter kit; others that resemble complex TV remotes; others again that are akin to a video game controller.  Best thing to do is get to a decent DCC seller (almost certainly not your local shop !  They will sell you what's best for them, not for you !) maybe at a large Show, and play with the various types.  See what you like, and as importantly what you do not like.  Then start looking at the different ones in the style you find best for you.
• If you like the rolling stock in that starter set - ask some retailers if they'll split the set & sell you those parts.  Some will faint in shock at you daring to ask, others will quote you a decent price (such as the lads in Hereford Models).  For the date range you're interested in, as commented you need to look at BR Late Crest stuff; plenty around.
• As far as track is concerned - pretty much Peco all the way.  You can get their Starter set in Code 80, or you can go into more fine-scale with their Code 55 (better choice of points, etc).  Or you can build your own in Code 40.  But I can't really recommend the GraFar track ... while better than Hornby do in OO, it's still not as good as Peco !

Hope the above is of help ...

Mike

Personally, I think that the choice of track type is the most important decision in starting out (besides DC or DCC). Locos and wagons can be bought and sold and the controller can be upgraded, but once a track type is selected then it is a nuisance to change if it proves to not be optimal. Set track is easiest for the beginner for testing out layout designs  either using track planning software or physically laying out the track.

I've never seen it, but Kato is supposed to be great stuff. The advantage of code 80 Peco set track is that it mates directly with their flex track. In building a small tester layout, it might be instructive to incorporate a few sections of flex to see what it can do. Flex is more difficult to use on tight curves, but on bigger layouts with larger radius curves it comes into its own. As pointed out by Mike, the Peco route also allows additional options for finescale track (code 55), insulfrog vs electrofrog, and points radii. Maybe getting too confusing, but I think it is worth the effort to ensure you get the best track type to begin with.

Good luck
Webbo

Quote from: Fireman Wallie on April 06, 2015, 07:40:15 PM

I have seen this advertised... 

Graham Farish  Countryside Coal Digital Train Set £ 169.95 dcc 3 Which includes a digital controller http://www.bachmann.co.uk/image_box.php?image=images1/farish/370-080.jpg&cat_no=370-080&info=0&width=650&height=459

And feel that it could be the ideal starter for me

A good start to get the feet wet.
Simple controller but still good enough to allow one to become familiar with DCC.  Nice usable track pack.
If you later decide to shift to other track types, this track starter pack would make an excellent test track to trouble-shoot and run-in locos.

CFJ

Quote from: Fireman Wallie on April 07, 2015, 08:30:16 PM
Hiya all,
Ma


I still reckon I want to start small and get comfortable with it and then either add to, or start again using what I already have.


I think for my first attempt....

With regard to era, I think I want to go with 1955-1965
A Town in rural middle England with a station and a goods yard.

I envisage ending up with 3 Steam locos (2 mainline and 1 shunter) and 2 Deisel (I mainline and 1 shunter)

Maybe the Graham Farish 370-070 Cornish Riviera set might fit your need better as it's in Era for you ... but still is a basic 'get you started' DCC set ?

Thanks to all of you for your help (Its really needed  )..

Well..... one thing is now definitely sorted!!

The era is.... 1953-1963

My wife returned from helping out at a local charity shop with this little beauty for me...

A 1953 Jowett Javelin 

Sadly I will have to do most of my buying online as my disability makes going to shows etc. more grief than fun, which makes all your help really appreciated

FW

There is a gaugemaste DCC controller in the For sale section on the forum.

Coupled with an Osbornes Kato set and you are off!

http://tinyurl.com/mthlk4t

Read the Kato track section and get a good view of its benefits - Iv.'e got  200' in my loft so I just like it!

It's great for beginners and very forgiving to relaying, unlike Peco!

Quote from: Fireman Wallie on April 08, 2015, 03:52:16 PM

Thanks to all of you for your help (Its really needed  )..

Well..... one thing is now definitely sorted!!

The era is.... 1953-1963

My wife returned from helping out at a local charity shop with this little beauty for me...

A 1953 Jowett Javelin 

Sadly I will have to do most of my buying online as my disability makes going to shows etc. more grief than fun, which makes all your help really appreciated

FW

Good choice on era - you can put a foot into both the worlds of late steam and early diesel. The 1953 Javelin should not stop you from running trains from the 1980's or 2000's though. Here in Canberra there is still the occasional 1960s Chevrolet and E-type on the streets to this day.

With respect to choice of starting gear, I suggest that you pick and choose whatever locos and rolling stock suites you best. There is a huge choice available from online stores. In the bad old days of OO, Triang and Hornby Dublo couplers (and the early track) were totally incompatible with one another. Nowadays in British N scale, locos and rolling stock of the various makes all couple together and will run on virtually any kind of track with any sort of controller (once DC or DCC is specified). If your choice of starting equipment all comes together in a set, well and good as there might be a bit of money to be saved. However, the different makes of track are not generally compatible with one another. You may save some money initially with a set, but if it means that you must continue with a track type that does not suite, then this may be a false saving.

Webbo

Hi all...

A couple of members have suggested `Kato` over `Peco` track, is Kato generally considered the better/best 

Like its been kindly suggested its best to get things right from the outset

FW

I wouldn't necessarily say it's the best but for a newcomer to N gauge layouts I would always recommend it as it's simple 'plug 'n' play' so is easy to dismantle. The biggest benefit is the points contain all the necessary motors so, although they seem expensive, they do take the puzzle out of wiring.

Quote from: Fireman Wallie on April 10, 2015, 10:35:36 AM
A couple of members have suggested `Kato` over `Peco` track, is Kato generally considered the better/best 

Not better. Different.

Kato Unitrack is modular set-piece track with built in ballast, power supply pieces, and where relevant, point motors. Everything is easy to wire thanks to built-in sockets. It's durable, easy to re-use, and the Unitrack joiners are very strong and reliable.

On the downside it doesn't look terribly realistic out of the box. Weathering helps a lot, and adding ballast if you want to (I do both). But even with this, it's still not nearly so realistic as, say, Code 55 Peco track.

So it's apples and oranges really. With Unitrack you get a reliable track system that needs minimal electric skills and, once you factor in the point motors, is pretty decent value. With Peco Streamline you get flexitrack for smoother curves, and your choice of how to ballast it, resulting in a more natural look. But Peco Streamline requires more careful assembly and wiring.

I like them both. I used Unitrack on my West Country layout and have re-used most of the track on my current layout (yet to be named). But I used Streamline on the Nuclear layout. Both systems have their pluses and minuses, and neither is definitively superior.

Cheers, NeMo

I think there was a post on here about problems with one of the Kato points but then there was a very clear and concise post on how to cure the problem perhaps you can find it in the search button .
My late mate had Kato and said it was very easy to change the track round if he wanted a change but he did have a problem with one loco that wouldn't go through one of the points  I can't remember what type of point it was, I Personaly prefer Peco streamline.
Bob

Quote from: Bob Tidbury on April 10, 2015, 11:08:57 AM
I think there was a post on here about problems with one of the Kato points but then there was a very clear and concise post on how to cure the problem perhaps you can find it in the search button .

Probably the #4 points, which derail some locomotives because the moving rails don't fit as snugly against the fixed rails as they should. Filing little notches into the fixed rails can help.

Quote from: Bob Tidbury on April 10, 2015, 11:08:57 AM
I Personaly prefer Peco streamline.

Nicely put. Choosing one instead of the other is about what you're after from your track. As a system for getting miniature toy trains to run reliably around ovals, Unitrack is better. As a material for creating realistic models of railways, Streamline points and flexitrack are better. If you're skilled and careful, you can get Streamline track working very reliably even after ballasting (which is usually where things go wrong). If you're creative, you can get Unitrack looking surprisingly realistic (look at Lofthole for example).

So it really comes down to what you want the track to bring to the table (reliability vs. appearance) and what you're prepared to do yourself (scenic sleight of hand vs. track laying and electrical engineering). Each modeller will have their own strengths, and that's how you objectively choose between Unitrack vs. Streamline.

Cheers, NeMo

Well said NeMo

In a nutshell, choice of track at least between flex and set track is really a personal one dependent on ambitions for the layout, modelling skills, as well as intangibles (aesthetics etc.). Other makers of flex and set track are possibilities also, but with both Peco and Kato one can rely on their reliability and quality of manufacture.

Webbo