I will grab a photo and upload it here
Bart

I have seen this material used for a layout.  Worked out fairly well, but apart from the expense it was very noisy when the trains ran over it.  It seems to amplify the sound.

Personally, I use MDF and haven't had any problems, despite everyone telling I would have, but I do seal it with Shellac.

The main reason I use MDF it is reasonably plentiful in my neighborhood  and cheap.  I change my mind so many times cheap becomes very relevant.

I also use aluminium frames as I have no facilities to any timber cutting.

Kind regards

Geoff

This looks extremely promising, especially for portable layouts. I've had a good look at the link (thanks Bill) - is it similar to that foam board which has a sort of card covering that I have seen used on several American layouts in the press?
Similar, but without the 'card' covering. Foamular is also very popular in US, which is where I came across it.
it was very noisy when the trains ran over it.  It seems to amplify the sound.
Geoff, I don't have a noise issue. Is your mate putting it on top of some form of solid base board?
Cheers, Bill.

Bill

No, there is no board underneath just supported on a frame as one would do normally with a ply or MDF surface.

Articles in the American model press seem to allude to a noise problem as well, and a recent article in the Railway Modeller where someone created a replica of the David Jenkinson's Garsdale Road using similar material.

I think there are issues about attaching point motors like Tortoises although some people have come up with some innovative ideas.  There would be any trouble attaching Peco point motors as these attach to the points, that is of course if you are using Peco points!

Lastly, some it has been raised in the model press about the toxicity of the material should it come in contact with heat or fire.

Bart should know the answer.

Kind regards

Geoff

Having run locos and trains on it I have found it not loud at all as it is a dense material used in sound/heat insulation and us blue in colour. We have installed 3mm cork on top though. The size of the sheet is big something like 8 by 4 and is 1 inch thick but I will check
Bart

Don't get me wrong.  I think it has very good possibilities and have seriously considered using it myself.  In fact, it would be very good with aluminum frames as you could some below track scenery.

However, it has its limitations as does ply and MDF.

Kind regards

Geoff

Quote from: Chatty on July 24, 2014, 12:56:34 PM
There would be any trouble attaching Peco point motors as these attach to the points, that is of course if you are using Peco points!

Lastly, some it has been raised in the model press about the toxicity of the material should it come in contact with heat or fire.

Regarding the Peco point motors attached directly to the point, I have never had any success with that, for some reason... I must be doing something wrong 'cos I just can't get them to throw when I attach them that way. I've always had to mount them with screws beneath the plywood baseboard.

Fire hazard... considering the number of layouts out there around the world that use polystyrene for scenery (mine included) I'd say a wee bit more in the form of a baseboard probably won't make an awful lot of diff! 

Lastly, some it has been raised in the model press about the toxicity of the material should it come in contact with heat or fire.
I've never heard this. It is used in a wide variety of home, commercial and industrial applications, so assume that it is no better or worse than anything else. I know a lot of the US modellers use it, and they are possibly far more "aware" of hazards than most of us, due to the constant nagging of US regulators.
Anyway, I rate the stuff as pretty great to work with.
Yes, I did have trouble mounting the tortoise motors I use, but some planning will negate that issue next time. What I would do would be to cut the board to a reasonable depth from underneath and glue some ply into place so that the motors can be screwed to the ply. You would still maintain the surface of the foam board and have a ply deck maybe 1/2" underneath.
Cheers, Bill.

FYI, this appeared today on N scale net. I have not had a chance to check it out.
For Australian forum members - foam board now at Bunnings
Bunnings is now stocking insulation foam board (this is the foam board that you can cut, saw, sand). In Bunnings at Castle Hill yesterday they had shortish lengths - at least a metre in length, perhaps a metre and a half, and in depths of 25 and 50mm. The 50mm pieces are $20.
Cheers, Bill.

Quote from: ozzie Bill. on August 01, 2014, 12:13:26 PM
FYI, this appeared today on N scale net. I have not had a chance to check it out.
For Australian forum members - foam board now at Bunnings
Bunnings is now stocking insulation foam board (this is the foam board that you can cut, saw, sand). In Bunnings at Castle Hill yesterday they had shortish lengths - at least a metre in length, perhaps a metre and a half, and in depths of 25 and 50mm. The 50mm pieces are $20.
Cheers, Bill.

Thanks for this info. Will check it out. 

I am sure that foamular is cheaper than the bunnings offering. you should be able to find their local dealer/distributor from their website. cheers, Bill.