Re-numbering Farish/Dapol diesels

[Mr PJ]

Hello,

Apologies in advance if its on another thread. Has anyone any recommendations regarding re-numbering loco's without doing a full re-paint? How easily will the old printing come off?

I wish to renumber a couple of Dapol 26's, a Farish 24, plus a few Farish 47's. 47403 will become 47469 (I think Fox transfers do the plates), 47612, will probably be 47642 (also needs the intercity logo replacing with "Scotrail"), and 47535 will become 47614, which is the only Scottish 47 that you can choose for this particular model, a slight extension of the black window surrounds is required too.

Oh, yes 20063 probably needs to become something a bit more Scottish (how about 20020?).

Cheers,
Paul

[mk1gtstu]

Yes it can be done, you can scrape away at the numbers with a fibreglass pen or something similar, I use an old small blunt screwdriver do it but you have to be very careful not to damage the paint underneath & take your time. My various projects thread is here if its of any interest to you 
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=11276.0

cheers, Stu.

[Dr Al]

47612, will probably be 47642 (also needs the intercity logo replacing with "Scotrail")

Ah! Snap....well almost....I've done 47643 in Scotrail.





I used a very small amount of T-cut on a cotton bud and gently worked off the Intercity branding and the number. This left a polished area for the new transfer, and once applied the whole loco was satin varnished (windows masked).

Care should be taken - I think the paint got fairly thin on mine and not much more rubbing would have started to cause some noticable marks - as it is it came out rather well!

Cheers,
Alan

[Mr PJ]

Very nice model of 47643, Al, looks just like the prototype. Can this be done on an N gauge model too?   But I like the name "Strathisla", plus 642 did get black headcode panels (albeit later than the period I model, cop out I know) which will save a bit of painting round the headcode box in yellow and the fawn brown colour.

[Dr Al]

Very nice model of 47643, Al, looks just like the prototype. Can this be done on an N gauge model too?   But I like the name "Strathisla", plus 642 did get black headcode panels (albeit later than the period I model, cop out I know) which will save a bit of painting round the headcode box in yellow and the fawn brown colour.

'643 is a cop out - not named which meant I could do it quick without having to source plates - only reason I chose it!!

Cheers,
Alan

[Mr PJ]

Not a cop out at all Alan, 643 a good example to model, remember it sitting at Inverness many a year, but it survived somehow (mainly because it was too far away to make it worthwhile the scrappies to collect it, and couldn't be cut on site in Milburn yard). When it arrived at Bo'ness at least 3 cylinders were full of rainwater!

Will have a go at 642 first though, mainly because its nice to have a namer, and a model of a loco no longer with us.

[Mr PJ]

Yes it can be done, you can scrape away at the numbers with a fibreglass pen or something similar, I use an old small blunt screwdriver do it but you have to be very careful not to damage the paint underneath & take your time. My various projects thread is here if its of any interest to you 
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=11276.0

cheers, Stu.

Thanks very much Stu. I'm half way through looking through your projects, some great work. A lot of the models you can't tell they are N gauge other than the couplers! I don't have an air brush, so will have to hand brush varnish on.
In note the problems with the numbers on Farish models being larger than the transfers, rather annoying. Looking at my model of 47612, the numbers do indeed look too big. Actually they look about the size that Eastfield used to apply to its loco's! (usually on the bodyside rather than the cabs, just to be different)
I don't know whether the same applies to 47535? A bit of a nuisance having to remove all the numbers!

I can see it being a possible problem removing the numbers on pre-weathered models too, I have bought a couple 20063 and the 25 (I think the quality of weathering is quite good on these). I think the weathering will come off as you try and remove the numbers.
 
Thanks,
Paul

[Dr Al]

A bit of a nuisance having to remove all the numbers!

It is, but it's always best practice, even if the sizes are the same - decals never ever ever quite match the manufacturer printed numbers (either is size, style or colour tone), so it tends to make a renumber much more noticeable as such - replacing the full number makes them look more uniform generally.

Cheers,
Alan

[mk1gtstu]

Yes it can be done, you can scrape away at the numbers with a fibreglass pen or something similar, I use an old small blunt screwdriver do it but you have to be very careful not to damage the paint underneath & take your time. My various projects thread is here if its of any interest to you 
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=11276.0

cheers, Stu.

Thanks very much Stu. I'm half way through looking through your projects, some great work. A lot of the models you can't tell they are N gauge other than the couplers! I don't have an air brush, so will have to hand brush varnish on.
In note the problems with the numbers on Farish models being larger than the transfers, rather annoying. Looking at my model of 47612, the numbers do indeed look too big. Actually they look about the size that Eastfield used to apply to its loco's! (usually on the bodyside rather than the cabs, just to be different)
I don't know whether the same applies to 47535? A bit of a nuisance having to remove all the numbers!

I can see it being a possible problem removing the numbers on pre-weathered models too, I have bought a couple 20063 and the 25 (I think the quality of weathering is quite good on these). I think the weathering will come off as you try and remove the numbers.
 
Thanks,
Paul

Yes I always remove all the numbers now having been caught out early on by the different size numbers on the transfer sheets!
I've converted a 47612 to 47406 'Rail Riders' using Shawplan etch plates, weathered it, pipes etc at one end & fitted a driver in the cab.


Also converted 47535 to 47458, again weathered & detailed it


Finally some pics of my class 20, also did the weathering on this. I have 20063 as well but not touched the weathering on it, if anything it looks a bit overdone next to this one..



cheers, Stu.

[Dr Al]

What airbrush do you use, Stu?

Cheers,
Alan

[MJKERR]

47535 will become 47614, which is the only Scottish 47 that you can choose for this particular model, a slight extension of the black window surrounds is required too

The BR large logo is actually in the wrong position, but hardly noticeable
For the digits, use the smaller Class 37 or Class 26

I too plan to convert my 47535 to 47614, but I will be removing all details and then replacing them

[mk1gtstu]

What airbrush do you use, Stu?

Cheers,
Alan

Just a cheap one I bought off ebay with the compressor as a kit, I've been using it for over a year or so now. It works well enough & pleased with the results I'm getting but thinking of investing in a better one sometime soon

cheers, Stu.

[Dr Al]

Interesting, thanks Stu - I doubt mine could produce the fine mist that you seem to effortlessly get with your weathering. Any tips?

Cheers,
Alan

[mk1gtstu]

what make airbrush are you using? When I'm using mine I just pull the trigger back a tiny bit to let small amounts of paint out & hold the gun quite far away from the model & make several passes over it, I find that way it gives that fine mist effect..

cheers, Stu.

[Dr Al]

what make airbrush are you using? When I'm using mine I just pull the trigger back a tiny bit to let small amounts of paint out & hold the gun quite far away from the model & make several passes over it, I find that way it gives that fine mist effect..

cheers, Stu.

I have one of these Stu:

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/BD-183k-Professional-Double-Action-Airbrush--with-needles-nozzles--1687.html

Do you know what nozzle/needle size you use? I'm tempted to replace one of mine or buy extras, so knowing what ones are best for this would be intersting info to have.

Cheers,
Alan