Quote from: steadfast on Yesterday at 08:28:12 AMRTR models are not varnished in the factory. They are painted, then tampo printed with the livery details.

Thinners can remove the tampo printing (handy for renumbering or rebranding) so I always seal with a coat of varnish before weathering.

Oil paints and enamels are very different beasts. Both use an oil based carrier, but they behave in different ways - I recommended some research into oil paint weathering via Google and YouTube if this is something that you want to try. The beauty of oils is their slow drying time and the ability to blend them nicely.

Enamels can be used for weathering too, as can acrylics but each have pros and cons and different ways of working. Again, YouTube and Google well worth a look, especially some of the foreign and non railway modelling. The aircraft and military modellers do some amazing techniques.

I've just found this as a good starting point explaining about washes.
https://youtu.be/hYHF8xKj1Ug?si=JwdvIqWoIYLFbADj

Jo

I dont get it, would i use enamel thinner on oil paints or only on enamel paints?.

Quote from: Ensign Elliott on July 24, 2024, 06:21:24 PMI do quite a bit of weathering, for myself and commissions for customers and generally don't tend to use any varnish at all.

I generally use a mix of airbrushed acrylics, enamel streaking products and panel liners applied by brush and the various powders here and there to finish off. I find the matt airbrushed paint usually provides a good enough "key" for any powders to adhere too. As long as the model isn't handled continually or roughly, I've never felt the need for varnish over the top. Any varnish often tends to alter the finished colour of the paint or powders.

The exception is on full resprays, re-lining or renumbering projects where thin a coat of gloss varnish initially applied will help the decal adhere to the model. A coat of satin or matt varnish once the decal has been applied will then help to reduce the chance of the decal peeling or rubbing off due to handling.

So do you weather over factory finish?, also what do you use for panel lining a wash? and what kind of paint.

Yep, G'day from Australia, mate, and welcome to the NGF! 

Was it a Kato #4 point?

Drifting off topic, welcome to the forum, John.
How about a post in the 'Introduction' section to tell us what you're up to in N?

As a recent newcomer to model railways and specifically n gauge, I bought a Sonic prairie from Rails to compliment a Dapol 57xx pannier. The prairie runs very well on kato track but had  an issue on one turnout, constantly derailing. I modified the turnout and it now runs through ok. The pannier on the other hand stuttered and hesitated continually despite running in. I spoke to Rails and they advised me to return it so they could check it out. I received a tested replacement within a week which runs properly. I know this post doesn't resolve any of the issues others have had, but so far, my limited experience of Rails' service has been a positive one.

I don't think there is any right or wrong with this.

I have weathered my own stuff using a mixture of oilbrushers and powders, with some dry brushing of acrylics.

I give them all a couple of sprays of either Humbrol Matt or Army Painter Matt varnish depending on what I have in, once the Oilbrushers have a few days to dry.

As others have said, if you are not going to touch the model much, then it is fine not varnish, however as my layout is small, stock does get moved around a bit more, so it adds protection.

I have never varnished any buildings I have done on the layout as they don't get touched.

RTR models are not varnished in the factory. They are painted, then tampo printed with the livery details.

Thinners can remove the tampo printing (handy for renumbering or rebranding) so I always seal with a coat of varnish before weathering.

Oil paints and enamels are very different beasts. Both use an oil based carrier, but they behave in different ways - I recommended some research into oil paint weathering via Google and YouTube if this is something that you want to try. The beauty of oils is their slow drying time and the ability to blend them nicely.

Enamels can be used for weathering too, as can acrylics but each have pros and cons and different ways of working. Again, YouTube and Google well worth a look, especially some of the foreign and non railway modelling. The aircraft and military modellers do some amazing techniques.

I've just found this as a good starting point explaining about washes.
https://youtu.be/hYHF8xKj1Ug?si=JwdvIqWoIYLFbADj

Jo

As the three couples approached the grand double main entrance doors of the Great Hall, the sounds of merriment and music grew louder. Two footmen, resplendent in their Trevelver livery, bowed slightly and swung the doors open, allowing the group to make their entrance.

The Great Hall was a vision of Yuletide splendour. Garlands of holly and ivy adorned the ancient stone walls, their deep green punctuated by the bright red of winter berries. Enormous Christmas trees, their boughs heavy with ornaments and tinsel, stood sentinel at each end. Hundreds of candles in red and gold lanterns and Atlantean and Bohemian crystal chandeliers bathed the room in a warm, golden glow, their light reflecting off the polished dance floor.

As they stepped into the hall, a momentary lull fell over the gathered guests. Heads turned, conversations paused, and appreciative glances were cast their way.

Sylvia and Jeremy led the procession, her crimson Givenchy gown a striking contrast to his impeccable black dinner jacket. They moved with the easy grace of longtime dancers, perfectly in step with one another.

Behind them, Eli and Giles followed. Eli's midnight blue silk gown shimmered as she moved, her striking bob catching the light. Giles, ever the gentleman, kept a protective hand at the small of her back.

Amanda and Andy brought up the rear, her Balenciaga creation of seafoam green organza seeming to float around her. Andy's hazel eyes never left her, his admiration clear for all to see.

As they reached the area of parquet flooring designated as the dance floor, Lord and Lady Trevelver appeared before them, a knowing smile playing on Lady Penelope's lips.

"Ah, there you are, my dears", she said, her voice carrying just the right note of innocence. "I trust you found the conservatory... illuminating?"

The couples exchanged quick glances, a mixture of amusement and mild embarrassment crossing their features.

"Indeed, Lady Trevelver", Jeremy replied smoothly. "Your collection of rare orchids is truly breathtaking."

"How delightful", Lady Trevelver responded, her dark eyes twinkling. "Now then, I believe the orchestra is about to begin a waltz. Shall we?" Her husband, by her side, nodded. Lady Isadora and Sir George Widgeon III remained seated at the High Table on the dais, still looking a little breathless.

With that, the four couples dispersed onto the dance floor, seamlessly rejoining the festivities. As they twirled and glided across the polished wood, the other guests noticed the extra spring in their steps, the added warmth in their smiles, and the lingering glances they shared with their partners.

The night was young, the music was enchanting, and the magic of the Trevelver Christmas Ball was in full swing.

Quote from: ntpntpntp on July 24, 2024, 12:27:46 PMWhat method of weathering - airbrushed paint and washes, or weathering powders?

Personally I prefer weathering powders over the top of the factory finish, and I don't varnish over the top in case I wish to remove or re-work the weathering at a later date.

Wash and powder, and oil paint ( i think ). No airbrush.

Im bit confused. Enamel paints and oil paints are the same thing right? or wrong?. Also when it comes to thinners for streaking and possibly making washes, what kind of thinner should be used, do you use the same thinner for oil and enamel?, and ami right you make washes with the thinner and paint? because i only have experience making washes with acrylic medium.


Thank you.