Unitrack user here.

Kato offers two ways to power their track, as others have stated. There's the plug-in option that connects to certain pieces of 62mm straight track, and feeders with Unijoiners on the end that let you pop out the ones on track pieces and add them wherever. I prefer the joiners as I can have feeders anywhere, and I feel like on a permanent layout the track-connecting feeders might come loose, though I have used tape to hold them in.

If you're running a longer layout you may be interested in a 3-Way connector, though Kato also makes 5-way connectors now. Just remember to keep your track pieces facing the same direction if you're using the feeder tracks, or at least keep the wire colors on the same sides of the rail (blue on one side, white on the other) to prevent shorts. I was using the 3-way connectors on my layout before opting to use Wago lever nuts and Atlas 16 gauge wire to wire my layout for DCC. The Kato feeders are 24 gauge (smaller) wire.

All right boys: let's do this!

I want the USA of course all the way, but wouldn't mind seeing your boys got off that 60-year "schneid" and take it all.

I'm at Tottenham fan so let's go Harry even though you left me years ago. 

Quote from: port perran on Yesterday at 08:27:32 PMHere's a band from 1973 who I doubt you've heard of.
I certainly hadn't.
Worth doing a little check on them on Wickapedia.
Only ever one album but it's interesting :

Put Sandy Denny on vocals and this track could be early 70s Fairport Convention.

Whoa. That's obscure. 

Here's a band from 1973 who I doubt you've heard of.
I certainly hadn't.
Worth doing a little check on them on Wickapedia.
Only ever one album but it's interesting :

Put Sandy Denny on vocals and this track could be early 70s Fairport Convention.

Kato #4 points have screws on the bottom that let you set them power routing or non power routing. For a chain of sidings you can set the straight direction of all but the last one not power routing and the curved power routing. That way you only have a single blade contact to worry about per siding. You will need to sort out those last two sidings with an isolator but the rest will just work.

It's also possible to take #4 points apart and clean them internally if you've got gunk in one, but they should if properly adjusted be very reliable given how the power is switched.

Thank you all for your replies     

I mainly follow rule one, but I do Kind of want to be fairly correct with train formations 

I'm still undecided about the crimson / cream stove r van but I'm fairly sure I have a Siphon G somewhere 

All best wishes

Kevin

 

Thanks for the replies.

The piece sitable is the powered rail joint=er as shown in the second link.

As some members, from whom I have asked for advice previously, may know I have had power connection problems in my stock yard due to using point blade contact.

Tha layout and stockyard splits in two halves with IRJs connecting the two, so I had a thought of using the Kato RJs as easy to disconnect/connect and applying power to all the loops by this means using switches.
They seem quite expensive though so I may try soldering wires to the standard Kato RJs which are less expensive.

Maurice C.

I use the 62mm power feed track piece for my Unitrack test oval, but it's powered by a Bachmann train set controller

I think that the post is referring to a power input track. Yes, there is a small piece of track which accepts a plug from a Kato SX controller, as in the post above.

The easy way is with a 62 mm power feeder track: https://traintrax.co.uk/20041-62mm-feeder-track-p-281.html

The more complicated way is with powered "uni-joiners": https://traintrax.co.uk/24818-terminal-unijoiner-p-326.html