acrylic paints and enamel varnish

Browning 9mm · January 04, 2026, 09:15:57 AM

a question about mixing acrylics and enamels.
my usual method is acrylic primer, my choice is Hycote, then Humbrol acrylic rattle cans, then camo and detail with a brush again in either Humbrol or Tamyia acrylics, then a coat of humbrol acrylic gloss or satin varnish, transpers then matt varnish.
I have, due to my own fault, run out of satin varnish, but I do have a couple of cans of Humbrol enamel satin varnish.

could I use that over the acrylics to seal for transfers,
and,
could I then use acrylic matt varnish to seal the transfers, or would I need to use enamel.
regards
alan

Newportnobby · January 04, 2026, 09:39:48 AM

Must admit I've never mixed the two as I've read of 'weird' effects so I'll be interested in any responses. Good question, Alan.

thebrighton · January 04, 2026, 11:48:15 AM

I have never had an issue with enamel over acrylic but have had numerous catastrophes with acrylic over enamel and now never combine that way round.
Also being slightly colder/damper than I thought has resulted in clouding of acrylic spray varnish but has never happened with enamel despite how cold it may be in the garage.

Bob G · January 04, 2026, 11:54:43 AM

To keep warm in winter, I once sprayed enamel varnish onto a model in our downstairs cloakroom. It also coated the plastic toilet seat, leaving a crinkle pattern. I have never told my wife how that happened, but she knows about the incident with the malachite green aerosol on the patio...

Will have to go back to the garage scenario, I think.

Bob G

Browning 9mm · January 04, 2026, 12:40:16 PM

Quote from: thebrighton on January 04, 2026, 11:48:15 AMI have never had an issue with enamel over acrylic but have had numerous catastrophes with acrylic over enamel and now never combine that way round.
Also being slightly colder/damper than I thought has resulted in clouding of acrylic spray varnish but has never happened with enamel despite how cold it may be in the garage.

so if I use the enamel satin to provide a base for the transfers, then use enamel matt to seal them. many thanks.
I to have found acrylic varnish to be very susepable to cold / damp.

thebrighton · January 04, 2026, 01:31:23 PM

Quote from: Browning 9mm on January 04, 2026, 12:40:16 PMso if I use the enamel satin to provide a base for the transfers, then use enamel matt to seal them. many thanks.
I to have found acrylic varnish to be very susepable to cold / damp.

For years now to provide a base for transfers I have used Johnsons Klear. It's an old bottle before the formula was changed but seem to recall the new stuff also works. I've just passed below half way in the bottle but it should still outlast me

RailGooner · January 04, 2026, 04:51:15 PM

Quote from: Browning 9mm on January 04, 2026, 12:40:16 PMso if I use the enamel satin to provide a base for the transfers...

FBR use gloss before and after decals, then satin/matt as required for desired final finish.

Bazza · January 04, 2026, 05:40:09 PM

I use Johnsons Klear to provide a gloss finish, painted on by brush, before applying transfers/decals. Then, when dry, I seal them with aerosol applied acrylic matt varnish. With the Klear being acrylic based you're not mixing mediums and getting problems. Just make sure the humidity and temperature is okay - which I believe applies to all mediums including enamel.

ntpntpntp · January 04, 2026, 09:04:55 PM

Gloss varnish undercoat (rather than satin) before applying decals, then matt or satin over the top depending on the final finish I want.

I use Microscale varnishes and decal setting solutions. Their varnish seems to be happy over enamel or acrylic.

Browning 9mm · January 05, 2026, 10:01:58 AM

Quote from: thebrighton on January 04, 2026, 01:31:23 PM
Quote from: Browning 9mm on January 04, 2026, 12:40:16 PMso if I use the enamel satin to provide a base for the transfers, then use enamel matt to seal them. many thanks.
I to have found acrylic varnish to be very susepable to cold / damp.

For years now to provide a base for transfers I have used Johnsons Klear. It's an old bottle before the formula was changed but seem to recall the new stuff also works. I've just passed below half way in the bottle but it should still outlast me

I was first introduced to this years ago by Chris, of Old Warren TMD fame, a name from the past, but he did warn me about the change to the formula of the product. mind you, I ran out of the old stuff years ago, but have never tried the new stuff myself.

Browning 9mm · January 05, 2026, 10:06:11 AM

many thanks for all the replies, I have decided to try to source some stin and gloss from other sellers, my usual one on ebay seems to be waiting for a Humbrol delivery, but I mat sacrifice an old model for trials with the enamels. basically what I have to hand, but the models will go to one side awaiting either a delivery of what I know will work, or the results of trials on the sacrifical lamb.

regards
alan

EtchedPixels · January 05, 2026, 12:11:59 PM

Quote from: Bob G on January 04, 2026, 11:54:43 AMWill have to go back to the garage scenario, I think.

Insulation backed plasterboard and breathable insulation between battens. Wonderful stuff

Cols · January 13, 2026, 09:59:30 PM

I have been a modeller ever since I was 9 - I'm 79 now...

I've been a member of the International Plastic Modellers Society since 1987, and I've made my fair share of modelling blunders, and through bitter experience I have learnt never to apply acrylic over enamel. When aircraft modelling, I usually use either Hannants Xtracolor or Xtracrylix paint - both are gloss paints which removes the need for a pre-decal coat of gloss varnish: (for railway models I have always used Phoenix Precision Enamels - and their varnishes). 24 hours after applying decals I then apply the varnish appropriate to the finish that I need, and I'll use the paint manufacturer's varnish. Of course, I always prime before painting, though I'll never use a rattle can, being an airbrush user for the past 45 years. I have nothing against rattle cans, except that I think that they're so darned inaccurate! By the way, I would always apply decals over a glossy, not satin, varnish. I make no distinction between modelling aircraft and modelling N-Gauge rolling stock when it comes to painting and decalling techniques. For decal setting/softening, I stick with MicroSet and MicroSol - been using them for over 50 years!

On the subject of Johnson's Klear, I haven't yet tried the "new" formula, as I laid in a goodly stock of the original formula when I heard that it was going to be replaced! However, I have heard good reports of the new version.

Doc Pye · January 14, 2026, 07:38:20 PM

As others have said, it really does depend on the paint types and their reactions with one another. Some acrylic paints really react badly with chemical solvent based ones, and the paint will blister, discolor, etc. So you really just need to do your research, learn from others mistakes, so you don't make them, and then do some test. Get yourself some material similar to what you are priming, like plasticard, paint it with your chosen acrylic and then spray your chosen solvent based varnish.

If you go on YouTube you will find loads of such vids. So just do your homework.