Rail joining trouble

[Wolfie]

Ok I'm tentatively putting some rails together using little metal fishplates. However I can't get the damn things to stay joined.

When I pick up the opposite end to add a new rail,the previous one just drops off again.

No doubt I'm doing it wrong, what's the accepted method please.

[Bealman]

Sounds like you're not sliding it on far enough. Is it flexible track?

But whatever, beware the dreaded fish plate  embedded in the finger trick!

[Platy767]

@Wolfie

Sorry for my silly question, but you are using PECO SL-300 (Code 80) or SL-300F (Code 55) flextrack with PECO SL-310 rail joiners, are you?

If laying a curve, try and preform the curve and cut to approximate length, remove the last sleeper and push the joiner on until it goes on halfway of its length.

If joining straight, still cut the last sleeper off so the rail joiner can slide on half way.

Use new rail joiners.

Mark

[PLD]

The more common problem is getting them on in the first place (too tight), rather than them coming off (too loose) so first thing is to confirm what type of track (brand, rail size/code, settrack or Flexi) and that you are using the matching joiners...

[Newportnobby]

If all the above has been checked and you're using the correct joiners, if the problem still exists then crimp the half on the rail slightly with pliers, being careful not to deform the bit that slides onto the next piece of track

[Wolfie]

Thanks lads. Yes using a combination of Setrack curves and Streamline flexi straights. Code 80.

I wasn't aware that the rail joiners were specific so I'll check that at the weekend (I work away from home during the week)

Removing the end sleeper sounds like a good move. Won't it look a bit odd?

[Newportnobby]

Set track and Streamline are both code 80 and the joiners on set track are usually a s*d to remove so it sounds like you need to remove the first sleeper on your flexitrack to give the joiner summat to join onto!

[Platy767]

@Wolfie

Grab a packet of SL-308F fill sleepers. Fit them into the gaps, as required, before fixing/ballasting track in place.




Mark

[Firstone18]

Thanks lads. Yes using a combination of Setrack curves and Streamline flexi straights. Code 80.

I wasn't aware that the rail joiners were specific so I'll check that at the weekend (I work away from home during the week)

Removing the end sleeper sounds like a good move. Won't it look a bit odd?

I use the removed sleeper with the chairs cut off and slide it under the space between the ends of the two tracks. Once ballasted it is difficult to see there's no chairs on it. HTH.

[Bealman]

Yes, no need to buy extra ones. Just use the ones you've cut off

[chrism]

Thanks lads. Yes using a combination of Setrack curves and Streamline flexi straights. Code 80.

I wasn't aware that the rail joiners were specific so I'll check that at the weekend (I work away from home during the week)

Removing the end sleeper sounds like a good move. Won't it look a bit odd?

I use the removed sleeper with the chairs cut off and slide it under the space between the ends of the two tracks. Once ballasted it is difficult to see there's no chairs on it. HTH.

Alternatively, cut the sleeper into three, cutting between the chairs, then put the middle bit in diagonally (to get it to fit in) before straightening it up and gluing it in place. Then glue the two ends in place.

[Platy767]

I use the removed sleeper with the chairs cut off and slide it under the space between the ends of the two tracks. Once ballasted it is difficult to see there's no chairs on it. HTH.

I suppose that will work with code 80 where the rail sits on top of the plastic. The only time I used code 80 flex the rail popped out of the chairs really easily, especially when it wasn't meant to.
I usually destroy sleepers when removing from code 55, so I use the replacement ones.
Mark

[zwilnik]

It's also worth making yourself a fishplate pusher.

I stuck a spare bit of code 80 rail in a pin vice, screwed the metal bit from inside a terminal block onto it as a stopper and filed the end ever so slightly so it's easy to put a rail joiner on it loosely.

You can then use it to push fit a fishplate directly to your rail without worrying about them getting embedded under your fingernails.



My other version was basically the same except I jammed the rail into a chunk of balsa wood and taped it to make the handle

[Newportnobby]

Similar to the above
https://tinyurl.com/eftvbfer

[ntpntpntp]

Very unusual for new fishplates to be too loose and fall off - they're usually a good tight fit (and need to be to ensure electrical conductivity).   To fit them I use my faithful old snipe-nose pliers I've had since the 70s, just grip the end and push on. Never a problem.


It sounds to me like you're trying to do this on curved flexi track and the fishplates are being pushed back off when the track straightens out in between cutting and fitting?  Try and use some pins or heavy weights to retain the shape while you lay the track around the curve.     I must admit since I changed to using code 55 back in the early 90s I've found that flexi track retains its shape much better than code 80.