!!

Not Registered?

Welcome!  Please register to view all of the new posts and forum boards - some of which are hidden to guests.  After registering and gaining 10 posts you will be able to sell and buy items on our N'porium.

If you have any problems registering, then please check your spam filter before emailing us.  Hotmail users seem to find their emails in the Junk folder.


Thanks for reading,
The NGF Staff.

Author Topic: Fitting DCC to Union Mills 2F  (Read 410 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Izzy

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 393
  • Country: gb
  • Gender: Male
    • Awards
Re: Fitting DCC to Union Mills 2F
« Reply #15 on: December 02, 2019, 07:32:03 PM »
 If moving the position of the black wire from the loco has improved things then maybe it's wires are broken internally and gives intermittent power supply?

Izzy

Offline doug22150

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 141
  • Country: gb
    • Awards
Re: Fitting DCC to Union Mills 2F
« Reply #16 on: December 02, 2019, 07:55:54 PM »
Thanks Izzy, I think that's a possibility.  I've just been running the loco. again and it's still not 100%. It seems to deteriorate with time spent running. Either that or the connection of the black to the decoder may be defective. The other remaining puzzle is still why it's so much noisier in reverse.

Online Snowwolflair

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • N Gauge Society Number: 25174
  • 2mm Association Number: 4194
  • Posts: 3327
  • Country: gb
  • Gender: Male
    • Awards
Re: Fitting DCC to Union Mills 2F
« Reply #17 on: December 02, 2019, 07:59:13 PM »
Thanks Izzy, I think that's a possibility.  I've just been running the loco. again and it's still not 100%. It seems to deteriorate with time spent running. Either that or the connection of the black to the decoder may be defective. The other remaining puzzle is still why it's so much noisier in reverse.

How does it run in DC by comparison.

Either deteriorating commutator or deteriorating out put bridge on DCC chip.  Possibly one leading to the other.  Get it running sweet in dc before trying DCC.
« Last Edit: December 02, 2019, 08:23:45 PM by Snowwolflair »

Online Dr Al

  • Trade Count: (+52)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 5100
  • Country: gb
  • Gender: Male
    • Awards
Re: Fitting DCC to Union Mills 2F
« Reply #18 on: December 02, 2019, 10:55:06 PM »
I'd look at cleaning out properly the flat bearing surfaces on the loco that the axles run on. Your description implies symptoms that may indicate these are dirty.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

“We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces.” – Dr. Carl Sagan

Offline doug22150

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 141
  • Country: gb
    • Awards
Re: Fitting DCC to Union Mills 2F
« Reply #19 on: December 02, 2019, 11:22:45 PM »
Thanks again for helpful comments.  I did thoroughly clean the bearing surface (again!) earlier today but have just heard from Colin at Union Mills who tells me that, on rare occasions, there can be corrosion problems with the splines connecting axles to wheels.  He recommends the use of silver conductive paint in this situation.  That's definitely the case with one driving wheelset - I tested again with a multi-meter this evening and there's no conductivity again on the rear driving wheelset.

That's not the only problem though, I think.  After running the loco. for about half an hour, the intermittent stopping recurred.  I think that I will try re-connecting the black loco. to decoder lead (again) tomorrow.  The loco. did run reasonably under DC.

Offline doug22150

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 141
  • Country: gb
    • Awards
Re: Fitting DCC to Union Mills 2F
« Reply #20 on: December 03, 2019, 04:56:36 PM »
Success!  The intermittent running appears to have been solely down to poor pick-up from the rearmost loco. driving wheels!  I have actually ordered a complete replacement tender chassis and motor from the incredibly helpful Colin at Union Mills. However, having spoken to Colin, I just thought that I would try fitting half of a Farish tender pick-up set to the trailing driving wheels.  It was incredibly easy - just a matter of cutting a the top contact set from BR Lines for a Farish tender in half an inserting it between the loco. base plate and chassis before tightening up the screws.  Tested with a multi-meter revealed 100% current transfer from all loco. drivers.  I then put the loco. back on the track and it now reliably (if still noisily in reverse) moves at speed step 10 and will maintain uninterrupted progress over the whole of my layout!

I have also noted that care needs to be taken in shortening the tender-loco. connecting wire if re-using it rather than the black decoder wire (which is too thin to be held in place by the tender top when replaced on the chassis).  The original wire is both thick and stiff: if shortened into a tight bend it can tend to pull the tender over to one side, resulting in the "live" side of the tender wheelsets tending to partially lose contact with the rails, again interrupting progress.  That is presumably why the locos. come from Union Mills with this wire in a very prominent loop!

 

Please Support Us!
December Goal: £60.00
Due Date: Dec 31
Total Receipts: £25.00
Below Goal: £35.00
Site Currency: GBP
42% 
December Donations


Advertise Here
anything