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Author Topic: Bachmann Farish Diesel Railcar sound install  (Read 416 times)

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Offline Caz

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Bachmann Farish Diesel Railcar sound install
« on: February 08, 2019, 06:38:13 PM »
Graham Farish Railcar Sound Install


WARNING Ė this install will invalidate any guarantee you may have so you do it at your own risk.

First job is to separate the chassis from the body, this is quite easy, just flare the underside centre of the plastic body and the chassis will drop out.

Take photos as you take it apart so you can easily see how it goes back together again afterwards.

You need to completely strip the chassis into its component parts as you have to cut the chassis with a saw and the swarf will damaged the motor etc.  You will need to unscrew the 2 small screws that wire the motor to the chassis, the screws are very small so take care, you need both of them and the eyelets later.  Hereís the chassis separated by removing the 3 body screws, be careful you donít lose them. 
 



Remove the areas shown in this photo, be very careful you donít overdo it and weaken the chassis too much. Both halves of the casting need removal.
 



Below is a half chassis to show detail.  A small saw was used to remove the material, it is very hard to cut (son in law to the rescue).
 



The completed removal
 
 




 

To feed the decoder wires through to the top of the chassis it is necessary to cut a groove either side of the chassis.  This groove is in exactly the same place where the black wires connected the motor to the chassis, see picture below for detail.


 

I then painted the cut area with black acrylic paint to insulate it a bit.

I removed the eyelets from the original motor wires and soldered them onto the much shortened red and black decoder wires and using the original screws screwed them to the chassis as that is the power feed from the track.

The rest of the wires I split into 3 bunches, the purple speaker wires donít need feeding through to the top, thatís one bunch, the other 2 bunches I just halved and put half up one side and the other half up the other side and used Kapton tape to insulate and hold them in place in the groove.

Hereís the wires fed through to the top.
 



I removed the roof to facilitate running light installation but if you are not fitting lights then you can leave it in place.  To remove the roof (it is glued on) you need a sharp scalpel and slide it between the roof and body to cut the 4 pins that hold the roof to the body.  I painted the underside of the roof near the lights black to stop light bleed
Hereís a picture after removal. 
 



If you are not doing a light install then you just need to connect right motor wire to the orange wire and the left motor wire to the grey wire. (Might have a word with John at Youchoos whether it's safe to glue the metal side of the speaker to the chassis)

Hereís the underside completed.  Iíve used Kapton tape loosely applied to the metal side of the speaker to insulate from any accidental rail touches whilst re-railing etc.



 
Hereís the top view all wired up (this also has the lighting wires so is a little more complicated).  You can see the miniature 3 pin connectors I installed for the lights to easily enable body removal.


 

Running Lights install.

I fitted both forward running and reverse running lights at both ends. 

Using a small No70 drill, drill through where the lights will be, they are already moulded in, you just need to drill them out.  I used the original light positions of the forward running white light on the roof and the rear running red light in the centre of the nose.

Once youíve drilled the holes you need to paint black acrylic paint on the insides to prevent light bleed (paint more than shown in the picture, I added more paint after the picture was taken).

I used 603 LEDís for all 4 lights and wired using fine enamelled copper wire soldered to their pads.  The red rear running lights were glued (quick drying gel glue) in place first, the wires fed up through the cut out in the roof and to the centre well.  I also carefully glued these wires to the windscreen behind the printed-on glazing bars to hide the wire.

The front lights also used enamelled copper wire and were glued centrally about 2mm behind the roof nose. This is to clear the curved moulding as it is too low at the very front behind the drilled lamp hole.



 
Using a multimeter I checked the LED polarities and linked the LED common wires (positive) together and then soldered a 10k SMD resistor to the resultant single wire with the other wire on the SMD going to the central well.  Did this on both ends (another 10k SMD resistor used) so I ended up with 2 lots of 3 wires.

The common positive from all 4 LEDs goes to the decoder blue wire via the SMD resistors.
The front (loco front) white LED and the loco rear red LED were wired to the white (F0f) wire. 
For reverse running, the rear white LED and the front red LED were wired to the yellow (F0r) wire.

If you want complete separate control of all four lights then you need to use the green and brown wires as this will give individual control of each light.

I have some miniature 3 pin connectors and I used 2 of the sockets back to back with the blue, white and yellow wires wired to their respective pins (common positive blue in the centre in case of reversal).  I then wired each ends lamp to the matching miniature plug so that if necessary I can removed the body from chassis by just unplugging the lighting wires. (Ensure you leave enough slack in the connecting wires)

To be safe I used Kapton tape again to insulate and hold wires in place.

One tested and working, glue the white roof back on making sure youíve painted the underside black to stop light bleed.

The lights should show through as is but I added a small piece of fibre optic glued into each hole to help project the light forward.

Forward running light illuminated



Rear running light illuminated.


 
 

Hereís the video of the Railcar on Claywell.




And here's the video on the test bed showing some of the sounds available.




Offline dannyboy

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Re: Bachmann Farish Diesel Railcar sound install
« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2019, 06:45:48 PM »
That is a brilliant put together 'how to' Caz, but you are a much braver woman than I am - not taking into account that I am a bloke, if you see what I mean  ;)
David.
I used to be indecisive - now I'm not - I don't think.
If a friend seems distant, catch up with him.

Online Bealman

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Re: Bachmann Farish Diesel Railcar sound install
« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2019, 07:11:20 PM »
Absolutely brilliant. As I said somewhere else Caz, you're certainly back in style - totally on top of your game.  :beers:
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

 

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