I'm a total novice and don't really know where to start with wiring DCC.

[fudduk]

That's really useful to know Chris, thanks.  I didn't realise that they had their own motors. 

[dannyboy]

As Chris says, Kato is ready ballasted but it can be disguised a bit if required - buy a bag of Kato ballast to glue at the sides so that the ballasting is not quite so uniform, a bit of that green stuff and the edge of the Kato track can be totally transformed, (once you have decided on a permanent layout!). You could always put a bit of a wash on the ballast to alter the colour a bit. Also, as Chris says, the points have a built in motor. I power all my Kato points from a separate 12v supply, via a 'centering' miniature DPDT switch. Works brilliantly. 
@fudduk

[ntpntpntp]

I power all my Kato points from a separate 12v supply, via a 'centering' miniature DPDT switch.

Worth adding, the Kato point motors work using  reversible DC (2 wires) not the usual 3-wire system used with twin coil solenoids.

It's perfectly reasonable to keep your points under good old DC control when the track is running DCC, but if you did decide you wanted to bring the points under DCC control then remember to choose point/accessory decoders that are designed for the Kato DC system not solenoids.   There are a few out there, for example I've used NCE SwitchKat decoders with my LGB point motors which work on the same principle.

[fudduk]

Thanks both for your advice. I'll let you know how I get on. 

[Railwaygun]

there is info on DCC control of kato points here

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=25575.msg477209#msg477209