Peco Code 55

[PaulCheffus]

My problem with this method is that you have to cut sleepers out as well for the rail joiners (cos of the rail being buried in the sleepers) It doesn't work as effectively as when using normal flexi track. With normal flexi track, all of the sleepers are still connected to one another and they help keep the rails in at the correct shape. Once you cut a sleeper out for the rail joiners (code 55 streamline), the sleepers become detached and have no purpose other than cosmetic value.

Does that make sense?

Rob

Rob

Hi

If you measure correctly then you can place the railjoiner between sleepers only needing to remove the webbing at the location of the railjoiner and as the two railjoiners are off set by the overlap all the sleepers are still held correctly.

Cheers

Paul

[rg1]

My problem with this method is that you have to cut sleepers out as well for the rail joiners (cos of the rail being buried in the sleepers) It doesn't work as effectively as when using normal flexi track. With normal flexi track, all of the sleepers are still connected to one another and they help keep the rails in at the correct shape. Once you cut a sleeper out for the rail joiners (code 55 streamline), the sleepers become detached and have no purpose other than cosmetic value.

Does that make sense?

Rob

Rob

Hi

If you measure correctly then you can place the railjoiner between sleepers only needing to remove the webbing at the location of the railjoiner and as the two railjoiners are off set by the overlap all the sleepers are still held correctly.

Cheers

Paul

Not sure what you mean. The rail is set in the groove of the sleepers. How could you cut enough of that away to insert rail joiners?

[PaulCheffus]

Not sure what you mean. The rail is set in the groove of the sleepers. How could you cut enough of that away to insert rail joiners?

Hi

I'll check mine tonight and let you know as it is a few years since I did it.

Cheers

Paul

[PaulCheffus]

Hi

Just goes to show how the memory fades. You are correct I had removed one sleeper at each position for the rail joiner but kept the rest of the sleep base intact by using a pair of pliers to twist the sleeper away from the rail after first cutting thought the web either side.

I would take a photo but I'm not sure how well it would show as it has all been painted by not yet ballasted.

Cheers

Paul

[chris carter]

I building a four track helix which need 3 metres per loop X4  and so a lot of joins. I remove a sleeper at each end, i glue my track to pre laid cork which is 22mm wide 1.6mm high. once the first piece is dry i do all the cutting to make sure the rail will be a perfect fit, i then make sure i use tight fitting peco fish plates (some recently have been sloppy) i then add the extra 2 dummy sleepers join the tracks, re align the dummy sleepers to the correct spacing, and then push in the last inch or so of a track setta template being the 18  inch radi. I then put a spring clamp over the join, finish laying the rest of that piece ie clamping it to the cork and let it all dry.I find my curves have been perfect and you would find it hard to find the track joints at all. I cannot stand seeing gaps where there are no sleepers or large self tappers holding track. My method takes time but to date i have laid nearly 60 metres and twenty sets of points all electrofrog code 55 all using the cobalts from DCC concepts.

[scruff]

The dummy sleepers that Peco sell are a boon for disguising the location of joins and they have the cutout to sit correctly under the track.

Mark