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Author Topic: My new locomotive works...  (Read 60185 times)

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Online Stevie DC

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #660 on: July 10, 2019, 05:49:43 PM »
A little bit more work as seen the black outer lining painted onto the tender with a fine brush. Also, I obtained and installed the missing cab interior and added the nameplates to the locomotive - Spearmint is officially the new identity now. I've also started to paint the BR green corridor connector I got to match the tender but now photos of this yet I'm afraid.


Offline kirky

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #661 on: July 11, 2019, 09:33:17 AM »
 Steve, your work is so good,  :wonderfulmodelling: I think I might be turning into a kettle fan.  :'(

Northallerton will make its next public appearance at the LINCOLN MODEL RAILWAY CLUB ANNUAL EXHIBITION Feb 29th -1st Mar 2020



Layout: Northallerton: http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=1671.msg16930#msg16930

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Online Stevie DC

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #662 on: July 11, 2019, 10:09:51 AM »
Steve, your work is so good,  :wonderfulmodelling: I think I might be turning into a kettle fan.  :'(

Thanks Kirky. Just to be clear, the loco end is Dapol's work, I'm just trying to match it with the tender. However, I will be finishing the painting/lining of the wheels and have painted out the electric warning panels from the running plate.

As for you turning into a kettle fan...  >:D Mwahahahahaha!  >:D >:D :angel:
« Last Edit: July 11, 2019, 10:10:57 AM by Stevie DC (formerly Atso) »

Offline kirky

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #663 on: July 11, 2019, 04:59:38 PM »
As for you turning into a kettle fan...  >:D Mwahahahahaha!  >:D >:D :angel:

Therapy needed
 :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37:
Northallerton will make its next public appearance at the LINCOLN MODEL RAILWAY CLUB ANNUAL EXHIBITION Feb 29th -1st Mar 2020



Layout: Northallerton: http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=1671.msg16930#msg16930

www.northallertonngauge.co.uk

Cleveland Model Railway club website: www.clevelandmrc.club

Online Stevie DC

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #664 on: July 11, 2019, 06:16:36 PM »
Therapy needed
 :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37: :Class37:

Hahahahaha!  :laughabovepost: :laughabovepost:

 :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado: :A1Tornado:

Online Stevie DC

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #665 on: July 11, 2019, 07:01:52 PM »
The next stage for the tender is to make up the decals for the triple white/black/white lining. If you look at Ian Rathbone's method, he puts the outer lines directly onto the model using a bow pen and, once dry, brush paints in the center black line. I've never had much success with this method, as trying to keep the distance between the two lines is a skill that I don't possess.

Therefore, I've borrowed Tim Watson's solution for boiler bands. This method involves spraying a clear decal sheet in the colour of the outer lines and then using the bow pen to rule in the center line. Once everything is dry, you line a ruler up against the edge of the center line and cut out using a fresh curved scalpel blade. The taper of the blade results in the edge being slight off of the edge of the ruler, which results in a thin outer line being left. There is a bit of a knack to getting this right but it is far easier than Ian's method in N gauge.

First of all, the clear decal sheet.



Microscale decals are really thin and give a nice finish when placed on the model; Some of the printer compatible decal sheets are quite thick by comparison. I think that I purchased these sheets (two in the packet) from Hobby Holidays at Ally Pally. The sheets are A5ish in size and last quite a long time for N gauge/2mm work.



A section of the sheet has been cut out and sprayed with the outer line colour (Humbrol enamel gloss white with some black added). You can really see the grey tinge in this photo, but once placed on the model it'll look white. This is another of Ian's techniques and it really does give a better impression of scale than using white.

Once the decal paper has dried, I'll rule in the center black lines, providing plenty to allow for wastage/mistakes. The corners will be carefully brush painted in directly onto the tender once the decal has set in place.

This is the method I used for the triple boiler/tender lining C1 Atlantic shown on the previous page.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2019, 07:04:14 PM by Stevie DC (formerly Atso) »

Online Stevie DC

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #666 on: July 14, 2019, 12:39:15 AM »
I've lined out the decal sheet and hope to be adding the inner panel lining to Spearmint's tender tomorrow or Monday.



I've added a spare corridor connection (from DCC Supplies) to the tender now, but I've yet to add the handrails to it. The tin of Humbrol shows just how small the tender is as well as the grey colour I've created to represent white lining. From memory 14 drops of gloss black were added to the white to create this colour. Once it is applied to the model, it looks white but doesn't glare out at you.

I'm been looking for the next locomotive to finish. As I'd really like to tackle another apple green loco, I dug around and found this in my unfinished projects drawer.



This locomotive will become B2 "Sir Sam Fay". Originally, I was going to build three of these, but the customer pulled out and, having set my own layout firmly in the 1930's period, it wasn't an appropriate locomotive to model (Sir Sam had gone back to the GC section by then). However, I have since found records that Sir Sam was still a visitor to the GN section, hauling Saturday excursion trains. As I plan to model a tourist car set (one day!), this is a good enough reason for me to go back to this project.

The loco body is 3D printed while the chassis is an adapted Farish Jubilee. The tender body is a Union Mills product and the chassis is a custom built unit (using some of the Jubilee drive parts) by my friend Hans Starman of N-Stars. This little unit is quite incredible and has been proven to be able to haul twelve Minitrix MK1 coaches up a 1 in 19 gradient!

Something else I'd like to get back to is this...



The body is for P2 Large Chicken :) 'O The North. I must have done this body eight months to a year ago but ran into problems with the intended A2 donor chassis. Farish stretched the wheelbase slightly to get as close to correct 6'2 diameter wheels as possible. While this works well for the A2, adding an additional set of driving wheels up front pushes the coupled wheels way too far forward. Having created this locomotive using actual works drawings, I didn't want to stretch the length, and so it has sat in a box up to now.

My new plan is to attempt to scratch build a powered chassis and fit it with spare Farish B1 wheels. These are slightly undersize at a scale 5'10 but, having seen Tim Watson's awesome 2mm Finescale P2, which uses scale 5'10 wheels, I think that it is a good compromise. Tim has kindly offered to teach me how to build the chassis but this is very much a long term project - before anyone asks, this one will be a complete one off.

Edit: One more photo showing the P2's roof detail.

« Last Edit: July 14, 2019, 12:44:22 AM by Stevie DC (formerly Atso) »

Online Snowwolflair

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #667 on: July 14, 2019, 12:44:47 AM »
I have contemplated a 3D printed chassis for a P2, lost wax cast in brass.

Online Stevie DC

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #668 on: July 14, 2019, 01:14:26 AM »
I have contemplated a 3D printed chassis for a P2, lost wax cast in brass.

I've messed around with this in the past. I found that the 3d printed/lost wax method is an expensive process which does not guarantee an accurate enough chassis for use with coupling rods. However, this does appear to be a viable solution for small four wheel diesel locomotives; there are several examples about. However, I did manage, after several attempts/revisions to 3D print the chassis blocks for my free running J3s on my Photon. The wheels run in bearings but it took a lot of fettling to sort out the various issues and warping and isn't something I'd try again. Once I sort out the tenders and drives, I'll probably revisit the chassis and remake them in a more appropriate material.

For the P2 I'm either going to etch the whole thing (and fill the voids with lead) or call in a favour with one of my 2mm contacts and have the chassis block milled - either method will be far cheaper and more accurate than the lost wax process. I understand from previous discussions with Colin that Union Mills locomotives have their basic chassis cast first and then the axle/gear positions are milled after for the same reason. I also have a cunning plan to convert the Farish B1 wheels to split axle pickup, I just need access to a lathe. For simplicity, I'll likely use an adapted/modified Dapol A3 tender but will use a loco mounted coreless motor, as their is plenty of room for lead weight in the loco.

Online Snowwolflair

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #669 on: July 14, 2019, 08:35:42 AM »
I have contemplated a 3D printed chassis for a P2, lost wax cast in brass.

I've messed around with this in the past. I found that the 3d printed/lost wax method is an expensive process which does not guarantee an accurate enough chassis for use with coupling rods. However, this does appear to be a viable solution for small four wheel diesel locomotives; there are several examples about. However, I did manage, after several attempts/revisions to 3D print the chassis blocks for my free running J3s on my Photon. The wheels run in bearings but it took a lot of fettling to sort out the various issues and warping and isn't something I'd try again. Once I sort out the tenders and drives, I'll probably revisit the chassis and remake them in a more appropriate material.

For the P2 I'm either going to etch the whole thing (and fill the voids with lead) or call in a favour with one of my 2mm contacts and have the chassis block milled - either method will be far cheaper and more accurate than the lost wax process. I understand from previous discussions with Colin that Union Mills locomotives have their basic chassis cast first and then the axle/gear positions are milled after for the same reason. I also have a cunning plan to convert the Farish B1 wheels to split axle pickup, I just need access to a lathe. For simplicity, I'll likely use an adapted/modified Dapol A3 tender but will use a loco mounted coreless motor, as their is plenty of room for lead weight in the loco.


I will be very interested in hearing how you get on with the P2 chassis  :pmsign:

Offline Train Waiting

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #670 on: July 14, 2019, 09:10:58 AM »

I'm been looking for the next locomotive to finish. As I'd really like to tackle another apple green loco, I dug around and found this in my unfinished projects drawer.



This locomotive will become B2 "Sir Sam Fay".

Sir Sam Fay looks absolutely excellent, Steve.  I have often wondered if Union Mills might produce this class of locomotive.

With best wishes.

John
'Why does the Disney Castle work so well?  Because it borrows from reality without ever slipping into it.'

(Acknowledgement: John Goodall Esq, Architectural Editor, 'Country Life'.)

The Table-Top Railway is an attempt to create, in British 'N' gauge,  a 'semi-scenic' railway in the old-fashioned style, reminiscent of the layouts of the 1920s to the 1950s.

For the made-up background to the railway and list of characters, please see here: https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=38281.msg607991#msg607991

Online Stevie DC

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #671 on: July 14, 2019, 11:15:33 AM »
Sir Sam Fay looks absolutely excellent, Steve.  I have often wondered if Union Mills might produce this class of locomotive.

Thanks John. Personally, I hope that Union Mills don't do this one.  ;)

Offline Roy L S

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #672 on: July 14, 2019, 11:25:11 AM »
Sir Sam Fay looks absolutely excellent, Steve.  I have often wondered if Union Mills might produce this class of locomotive.

Thanks John. Personally, I hope that Union Mills don't do this one.  ;)

Not this year anyway Steve, Colin Heard told me there will be nothing new as he is concentrating on re-runs of some of his previous models.

Sir Sam looks great so far, and it looks like you have the underpinnings pretty much nailed.

I look forward very much to seeing it progress.


Roy

Online Stevie DC

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #673 on: July 14, 2019, 11:28:09 AM »
Not this year anyway Steve, Colin Heard told me there will be nothing new as he is concentrating on re-runs of some of his previous models.

Sir Sam looks great so far, and it looks like you have the underpinnings pretty much nailed.

I look forward very much to seeing it progress.

Thanks Roy. I've actually got a second one to build for Hans (in exchange for his work on the chassis). However, that one is to be decked out in full GCR green livery!  :goggleeyes:

Offline Roy L S

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #674 on: July 14, 2019, 11:31:45 AM »

Thanks Roy. I've actually got a second one to build for Hans (in exchange for his work on the chassis). However, that one is to be decked out in full GCR green livery!  :goggleeyes:


A fully lined GC one will be quite something and if anyone is up to that challenge it is you!

I look forward to seeing them both develop.

Roy

 

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