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Author Topic: D10000 /1  (Read 1664 times)

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Offline CarriageShed

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #15 on: April 10, 2018, 01:00:29 PM »
Is it resin dust that you're not supposed to breathe in? I know it's one of them, but be careful not to anyway.

Offline Fredastaire

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LMS10000/BR10001
« Reply #16 on: April 15, 2018, 02:32:50 PM »
Well , ive made a start, here is the Parkwood body on my low hours Farish Poole 38 chassis. the fun bit was radiussing the ends of the chassis, the armature and output shafts refused to be pulled up and out, the white bearing plates are jammed hard in so I fully masked up the chassis before grinding off. ive trimmed the Parkwood internal ribs on the sides to fit the Poole chassis and had to trim some of the roof cross ribs to get the height correct.
As this is my first resin kit please may I ask for your further help and comments. I am wondering about trimming out the windows and glazing both for the cabs and the engine side windows; is this reccomended with the soft resin body? As a past hobbyist on Corgi model car restorations I have Humbrol aerosol paints and are well used to using them finding the nozzle mist very good for small models. Am I up at any risks with using Humbrol?
lastly ive put a wanted on the forum for a non runner 37 chassis as i'm wondering about making an unpowered BR10001 version to work in tandem with the LMS 10000. I'm thinking about removing all in the bogies except for the main axlesets.

« Last Edit: April 15, 2018, 04:39:54 PM by Newportnobby, Reason: Title altered at Fred\'s request »

Offline Bob G

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #17 on: April 15, 2018, 02:55:12 PM »
Congratulations on your first resin kit.

Depending on the thickness of the resin, you can either carefully cut out the windows (if the resin is thin this is the preferred option) or (as on the Parkwood shunter kits and classes 15/17/Ivatt prototype which i have built), after i had painted the final livery, i painted the windows gloss black and then fitted acetate sheet on top, stuck on with PVA, so that they catch the light like ordinary models do.

On this model i'd be tempted to cut out the cab windows but not the side ones (rembering its only the upper five panels that are windows).
I think it all depends on the thickness of the resin body in the window areas, and how fiddly you want to get.

Scrub the resin body with CIF on a toothbrush when you are done, to degrease it, then spray with Halfords grey primer, and then halfords satin black. Cheaper than anyone elses aerosol black!

HTH
Bob




Offline Fredastaire

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Re LMS 10000 (D10000)
« Reply #18 on: April 26, 2018, 08:18:16 AM »
As outshopped at Derby works initially, what colour should the roof be? the only photos I can see on google are black and white , although at first sight I was going for silver, a colleague says it should be white. Can anyone confirm?
.
PS I'm looking for a dead Farish 37 or 47 chassis to build 10001 as an unpowered rolling version to run with my 10000.
.
Kind regards from Fred

Offline Bob G

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2018, 08:26:37 AM »
If you are modelling the early black liveries, it is silver, same as the waistband colour and the bogies.
If you are modelling the later green versions, it is "roof grey" like other green diesels.

HTH
Bob

Offline Fredastaire

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #20 on: April 25, 2019, 12:59:21 PM »
I hadnt realised that my 10,000 and 10,001 project pair had stalled for so long, ive been busy with other ancient GEM whitemetal kits, a Brass Etch A8, (still a GEM Director and a PK models Stanier 2-6-4 to do).
I'm at the point of final prep before paint and reached a question.
.
As I am completing both as outshopped new, should i finish with Halfords Satin black (ive got the hang of spraying Halfords and like the completed finish), or should I be using gloss black for which I have Humbrol Gloss Black aerosol lurking on my shelf...........or should it be Halfords Gloss Black?
.
Ie were they gloss or satin when new?
.
(numbering is to be Fox stainless digits and not waterslide transfers).

Your advice appreciated
« Last Edit: April 25, 2019, 01:00:27 PM by Fredastaire »

Offline martyn

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #21 on: April 25, 2019, 01:34:02 PM »
I'd use Halford's satin black, then Johnson's Klear (or whatever its called now) to be a local base for any waterslide transfers; as you say you are using Fox metal, this shouldn't be a problem.

Gloss paint on a model seems far too 'glossy' on a model when viewed on a layout; but it could always be overcoated with appropriate varnish after finishing numbering and any other transfers you are doing.

martyn


Offline mark100

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #22 on: April 25, 2019, 02:22:15 PM »
You can buy bogie side frames from shapeways, they also do 3D printed body shells to, but I asked for fragile pieces such bogie side frames to be made available as separate items after we had a couple of CO BO frames shatter and at the time they were only available as part of a kit.

Decals, I sent samples of prototype loco decals to Steve at Railtec last year and he has done the KESTREL decals in N Gauge so far, I need to check to see if he has done any of the others. but the other option is an expensive sheet from Fox transfers that does a few of the prototype locos, which was why I asked Steve to do them individually.

Cheers Mark



You cant get better than a Betta Fish

Offline mark100

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #23 on: April 25, 2019, 02:32:59 PM »
Here are some links to my page of the old and new 10000 - 01 models

I did 2 separate albums for each type. we still need to complete a new 3D printed model.   :thankyousign:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/leicester-modellers/albums/72157706661759321

https://www.flickr.com/photos/leicester-modellers/albums/72157677837261357

You cant get better than a Betta Fish

Offline Fredastaire

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #24 on: April 25, 2019, 03:26:42 PM »
Hi Mark, ive looked at the links however may I ask if you used gloss or satin or matt black?
Im rather expecting that the factory as outshopped on the first day would be gloss black???????

Offline mark100

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #25 on: April 25, 2019, 03:47:43 PM »


I airbrush Matt black, then gloss varnish it to put the decals on, then gloss varnish over those and then Matt varnish to give a satin finish.

seems like a lot of work but i'm always happy with my results.

You cant get better than a Betta Fish

Offline Fredastaire

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #26 on: April 27, 2019, 09:37:28 AM »
Bob G, please can you give advice on how to make the windows with 'Glue n Glaze' ; ive the two bodies now with all windows cut as holes and bodies all in Halfords Satin Black.

So next is the roof masking and silver, the windows and then the dreaded task of cutting out the Fox stainless numbers, i would take advice on cutting these out and fixing. ooooh and the silver waistbands.

Kind regards and thanks all so far.

Offline Bob G

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #27 on: April 27, 2019, 09:59:40 AM »
The glue n glaze I use comes with two nozzles, or rather an add on nozzle.
This gives a very fine hole from which the pva comes out. The idea of the fine hole is to avoid air bubbles in the window.
You basically start in a corner and circle round the window until you get to the middle. Then stop!
It starts white and as it dries it goes clear.
If you have one that goes wrong you can easily take it out and start again.
The pva doesn’t react with the resin and is slightly flexible.
Enjoy!
Bob

 

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