Baseboard Construction - Advice Please

[Bealman]

Yeah but you're held up with more than 2x1 pine these days. Bionic man 

[Railwaygun]

unless sundelea is sealed all over, it does a BR sandwich impersonation at the edges! i had to replace 8 tops with ply - no problems since!±

[31374547]

Thank you to all those that took the time to reply and provide guidance. It is greatly appreciated.

Some interesting points raised regarding baseboard tops, dimensions, transportation etc. This is a good time for me to think again to make sure all aspects are considered before proceeding.

Experience gained from others is so valuable. It seems obvious now that the internal bracing should be added after the point positions have been decided - but I had not thought of something so simple. It's that sort of feedback and the willingness of others to offer advice that makes this forum such great value.

Thanks all.

[Graham Walters]

9mm ply is very heavy, so consider that if you are going to use it for a mobile layout, try carrying an 8 x 4 sheet of the stuff and you will see what I mean.

It also varies a lot in quality from dealer to dealer, I looked at Wickes ply and it is a lot better than that at B & Q or Homebase, but none of those are of the same quality you get from a builders merchant.

For bracing you need depth of wood not thickness, so instead of PSE you could use strips of 9mm Ply glued and screwed, this would produce very stiff framework and be less likely to conflict with the placing of points.

At the club I go to we are are constructing an exhibition layout, the baseboards are made from 9mm ply, but in an open board type construction, at the moment with no scenery and minimal track they can be lifted with one hand, but are very strong.

[Topcat]

I have used 9 mm on 70x 50 bullet proof. But- 9mm board is not easy to get short screws not to go through the board having trouble finding less than 1/2inch -13mm screws Is it me not looking hard enough?

[Geoff]

I have used 9 mm on 70x 50 bullet proof. But- 9mm board is not easy to get short screws not to go through the board having trouble finding less than 1/2inch -13mm screws Is it me not looking hard enough?

Have you tried Screwfix?

[steve836]

I have used 9 mm on 70x 50 bullet proof. But- 9mm board is not easy to get short screws not to go through the board having trouble finding less than 1/2inch -13mm screws Is it me not looking hard enough?

Have you tried Screwfix?

I wouldn't, I find that using decent Quality screws saves time and money in the long run. Try googling Spax screws and see if you can find a stockist near you.

[Geoff]

I have used 9 mm on 70x 50 bullet proof. But- 9mm board is not easy to get short screws not to go through the board having trouble finding less than 1/2inch -13mm screws Is it me not looking hard enough?

Have you tried Screwfix?

I wouldn't, I find that using decent Quality screws saves time and money in the long run. Try googling Spax screws and see if you can find a stockist near you.

Never ever had a problem with screws from Screwfix and I use them when needed, plus nothing has fell apart yet.

[Jimmy77]

I've used screws from both Screwfix and Toolstation without any issues at all. I normally go with Toolstation for their Reisser screws, although I've used their own branded stuff with no problems.

Just to note too that Screwfix is a stockist of Spax screws.

[Dorsetmike]

Never heard of Spax or Reisser screws, I get mine in Lidl, not had any problems. I've also given up on ply or MDF, I use Celotex 2" thick insulation foam, very rigid, very light, cut it with a sharp kitchen knife. Comes in sheets from 4' x 18" up to 8' x 4'. 

I glue it to hardboard or fibre board underneath and cork tiles for the top;  the edges also require protection for which I use 9mm cladding; the only reason for the board under and cladding edges is protection from knocks.

It does mean wiring is best run in shallow channels cut in the surface  and point motors either surface mounted or in holes cut into the foam (I use mostly wire in tube so point motors are not really a problem for me).

[geoffc]

Just a few comments on previous posts:

The Sundeala of 25 years ago is not the same as the Sundeala of today, this was the reply from the manufacturers:
"That sounds like what was our 'A' board. We no longer make that I'm afraid.
We do still offer the light grey softer board as you describe, and we do do it in 3 thicknesses. 6,9 and 12mm. "

I went to a timber merchants and told them exactly what I was doing and what I wanted from the ply for and was sold Chinese ply, a load of rubbish, if you want decent ply get Finnish Birch ply, more expensive but far superior.

Inspect everything for defects before parting with your money.

[PostModN66]

Sundeala is a lovely surface to lay track on; I always use it, but on top of a layer of thin ply to add surface stiffness.  Used this way you can also cut out small culverts and minor slopes.  It is also easy to cut the troughs for WiT point operation.  It probably helps deaden noise as well.

(In my case the thin ply in question is usually the top surface of a flush door....that's another story!)

Cheers  Jon