Where to start??

blagger71 · March 19, 2015, 12:19:31 AM

Hello. This is my first post on this forum so apologies if this is posted in the wrong place........ I'm in need of a little impartial advice. I am wanting to build my own N Gauge layout and have been on the lookout for a starter set. I have found this - Dapol Loadhaul Class 56 Freight Digital Starter Train Set DCC N Gauge NDIESEL2 - on ebay and was just wanting to know if it is any good and worth the money. I ask this because I did buy a Hornby set (dcc) and to be honest I was not impressed at all. There are so many controllers etc that I don't want to buy more kit and be disappointed. Many thanks, Mark...

Bealman · March 19, 2015, 12:45:56 AM

G'day from Australia, Mark, and welcome to the NGF!

I'm a DC dinosaur myself so cannot directly answer your query, but there will be someone here who can!

Welcome aboard.

johnlambert · March 19, 2015, 07:19:33 AM

If you want to go with DCC I'd say that's a good starting point. The Gaugemaster DCC controller is a good one (I bought the NSTEAM2 set with the same controller), although you do need to read the manual several times to get the hang of how to use it. But it has more features than the DCC system you get with the Graham Farish DCC train sets and the Gaugemaster DCC system can be upgraded when your needs and budget allow.

Hope that helps. Above all I hope you enjoy your N gauge journey.

MikeDunn · March 19, 2015, 09:38:00 AM

Hi,

Frankly - if you don't want to risk a controller, don't buy the set ! I think it's reasonable (but not my cup of tea), but you may dislike intensely how it operates. Controllers tend to be very personal items ...

The best advice is to get to a large show & visit the DCC specialists, such as DCC Supplies or Digitrains. See what controllers they have on display, and play with them all. See what type you like, and what you don't - there is a wide range from slabs reminiscent of 90s TV remotes (tiny buttons everywhere) to PlayStation controllers, tethered to wireless. Once you know what you do like - then you can hone in on what's best for you & your budget.

And you can also think about what you want to run

You mention this diesel unit - is this your interest ? Or was it just one you saw in a set ? A good Show may see you not only buying a controller you're happy with, but also some engines & appropriate rolling stock.

Don't forget the track ! Peco track tends to be the best-thought of around here; you have a choice of it looking OK or really good (or you could make your own, and go Fine Scale on the trackwork !). They do a Starter Set that's value for money in the 'looks OK' area, and this may be fine for you.

Lots of things to think about - but there is a decent show shortly

Mike

Newportnobby · March 19, 2015, 10:10:54 AM

Hi Mark, and welcome to the forum from another old DC fart

port perran · March 19, 2015, 06:07:50 PM

Welcome aboard Mark from yet another DC dinosaur.

georgehgv · March 19, 2015, 06:16:44 PM

Welcome aboard from an oldie who has embraced DCC

I use the NCE Powercab because it feels right and does everything one handed, I found after trying others it suited me best, some you hold with one hand and twiddle speed control with other hand. As said before go and try before you buy.
And the spare hand is useful for holding a

I also use Hornby Railmaster as point and signal controller, again because it suits my style.

Take a look at my thread on here may find some info there.

blagger71 · March 19, 2015, 10:43:36 PM

Thanks for the warm welcome and useful advice......lots to think about. I'm going to see if there are any shows on in my neck of the woods and try and talk the Mrs into coming with me

Now all I need to do is get shot of the Hornby stuff I bought. It was the points that put me off in the end as well as the controller (Hornby select). The diesel would stop dead on every point if moving slowly or a wagon would de-rail at speed. I did some digging online and know now I could have bought track from Peco with live points but I'd had enough by then. I started looking into N Gauge and I think it has a charm all of it's own. Again thanks again for the responses. I'm sure I will have more questions very soon

Mark.

georgehgv · March 20, 2015, 03:27:33 AM

Quote from: blagger71 on March 19, 2015, 10:43:36 PM
Thanks for the warm welcome and useful advice......lots to think about. I'm going to see if there are any shows on in my neck of the woods and try and talk the Mrs into coming with me Now all I need to do is get shot of the Hornby stuff I bought. It was the points that put me off in the end as well as the controller (Hornby select). The diesel would stop dead on every point if moving slowly or a wagon would de-rail at speed. I did some digging online and know now I could have bought track from Peco with live points but I'd had enough by then. I started looking into N Gauge and I think it has a charm all of it's own. Again thanks again for the responses. I'm sure I will have more questions very soon Mark.

Did exactly the same so I sold all Hornby and OO stuff on Ebay and reinvested in N Gauge, best move ever.

Actually made a profit on most of the sales as well.

Good luck.

blagger71 · April 12, 2015, 06:27:32 PM

After more research I took the plunge and bought the Dapol Loadhaul Class 56 set. To say I'm impressed would be an understatement. Just the build quality alone knocks spots off Hornby (old set now sold). Also the controller I was worried about is awesome, very user friendly. It's now been run in as per instructions...........and now I want to get cracking on the track layout. I do have a few questions.....does the same rule apply in N Gauge as OO with regards to turn radius and some trains not being able to handle the smallest size. I did read somewhere that some newer OO stuff would just derail? Also is it possible to use settrack with code 80 so I can have elecrofrog points? Thanks, Mark.

Sprintex · April 12, 2015, 06:45:03 PM

Setrack with Code 80 Streamline will be fine

As far as I'm aware it's mostly only the newer-model steam engines that have trouble with R1 curves, diesels and DMUs should be fine. Someone else may know different though

Paul

NeMo · April 12, 2015, 06:45:36 PM

Quote from: blagger71 on April 12, 2015, 06:27:32 PM
does the same rule apply in N Gauge as OO with regards to turn radius and some trains not being able to handle the smallest size. I did read somewhere that some newer OO stuff would just derail?

Yes, but this is usually confined to long wheelbase steam locomotives with 8 or 10 coupled wheels. Most diesels handle curves just fine. Likewise rolling stock is generally pretty tolerant, though six-wheel wagons and long wheelbase two-wheel wagons are sometimes fussy. With all this said, even the least accommodating ready-to-run stuff works okay on second radius curves, so just avoid first radius and you'll be fine.

Quote from: blagger71 on April 12, 2015, 06:27:32 PM
Also is it possible to use settrack with code 80 so I can have elecrofrog points? Thanks, Mark.

Yes, the rails themselves are compatible but the geometry is different. In other words: imagine a siding in SeTrack. One point, one short curve, and then as many straights as you want to make a siding parallel to the main line. That doesn't work with Streamline (the Code 80 track from Peco). You'll need to make your own curve using Flexitrack.

Similarly passing loops, crossovers between two parallel lines, and other things that are easy in SeTrack become a little more complicated. Basically, once you choose Streamline points, there's almost no reason to use SeTrack except for cramming tight curves and fiddle yards into hidden areas. Lots of people do that, even if they don't admit it!

Cheers, NeMo

georgehgv · April 12, 2015, 06:49:56 PM

Well done Mark. Sure you won't regret being converted. As a blatant plug give Derails a try for prices on Peco, I found they beat the big boys for price and service.

blagger71 · April 12, 2015, 08:53:23 PM

Thanks for the quick replies, much appreciated

I think I may just use the settrack I got for a siding or something like that and use code 80 to make life easier. Also good to know about r1 track and long wheel based engines. I will definitely be checking Derails for some track asap. Thanks all, Mark.

NeMo · April 12, 2015, 09:01:08 PM

Quote from: blagger71 on April 12, 2015, 08:53:23 PM
I think I may just use the settrack I got for a siding or something like that and use code 80 to make life easier.

If it's a siding, then really, using flexitrack isn't even remotely hard. Fix one end to the Streamline point, bend gently so it forms an appropriate curve, straighten out the rest of the piece of flexitrack, and likely snip off the bit of rail that will overhang at the end. I use glue (Copydex or UHU) to hold it down, with some heavy books or rocks to keep it steady while the glue hardens; others prefer track pins which is cleaner but more difficult to do. Either way: done!

Crossovers and passing loops are, to be sure, a bit trickier.

Cheers, NeMo