Viewing Heights for N Gauge

[Wingman mothergoose]

What do you consider the ideal height for a layout? My current layout sits on legs 3 feet long, and I was wondering if this is too high? Or is it down to personal preference?

Also, how have you built legs for your layout! I'm well aware that mine are pretty crude, and I want to make some better legs, but I've no idea how I should go about it. Do I have adjustable feet? How do I attach the legs to the layout? And above all, how do I make it sturdy enough?

Chris

[Ditape]

I would say the height of your boards is what suits you best, I personally go for around 3ft 9ins it all depends on how tall you are, your preferred control position (standing or sitting),how easy you find it to reach the back of the layout and whether you plan to exhibit.
As to height adjusters it depends on how permanent the home of your layout is, if it will move around then you need them.
As to style on a portable layout I tend to favor a folding saw horse style on permanent layouts I go for 2x2 fitted in to sockets on the underside of the board and cross braced. 

[oscar]

Hip height (where you bend) so you can reach as far as possible. Depends on your height as Ditape says.

[grumbeast]

Build it for your comfort.  I'm 6'3 and my new layout is around the walls and quite narrow generally less that 2" so I've built it around 46-48"  seems tall to a lot of people, but I can reach everywhere without bending at all, and when I sit on my task chair the trains will be at eye level

[jpendle]

Mine is 4 foot high and no more than 3 foot wide. In most places it is 2 foot wide with access holes in the wider sections. I prefer to stand while operating, as my layout is 20' long I have to stand in case I need to get down to one end or the other to fiddle with stock.

I would say though that the ideal layout height is whatever suits you best.

John P

[Newportnobby]

Agree with everyone else - build it to suit age/back condition/viewing level etc etc.
Mine is constructed at 44" floor to base of layout which is comfortable to work at, but I have one of those gas operated stools so can lower it for eye level viewing.
The legs on 'Kimbolted' are 2" x 2" and it's a permanent layout.
For the smaller layout (Bletchford) I am using 3 x Draper* adjustable height saw horses.

* Other makes are available

[Thebigshot]

Hi Guys

I've built both my layouts to where I can lean on them and if I sit I can see them at eye level plus the bottom of the layout is above all my radiators in the house so if I need to move it and the heater is the only place I can put it then I know it's above that and it works for me so my saying if it works then don't fix

Thanks
Alan

[PLD]

This is a question which crops up regularly and is guarenteed to provoke argument, but to which there is no right or wrong answer.

I will agree with the sentiment of most others - it is whatever height is comfortable for you to operate... If it is an exhibition layout you have to think of the poor souls stood playing with it for 8 hours a day rather than the viewer who will spend 8 minutes (if you are lucky!) watching...

My personal preference for operating is a track level around 18-24" below eye level so that I am looking downwards on it, but viewing, I prefer closer to eye level...

[Zakalwe]

mine is 130cm from the ground, this gave best width through loft space and it puts trains closer to eye level so i can watch stuff go by through the trees and scenery, maximum width of baseboards in 2 foot slightly more into corners so easy to get to with holes in the baseboard and lift able sections where the train is underground

a stool with adjustable height is ace for this too

[Dorsetmike]

For a permanent layout I usually use kitchen base units without work tops, dual purpose, generally sturdier than legs, plus space to store all the cr@p one seems to accumulate, tools, kits, spare bits, scenic stuff, wire & connectors, relevant railway and modelling books and magazines. Use a mix of cupboards and drawers.

Height of units is usually around 36", depth will be around 20 -24" if you want a 3' wide baseboard leave some space between the back or the layout and the wall  so you have a bit of overhang front and back. rather than all at the front.

For my last layout I covered the tops  of the units with boards salvaged from an old wardrobe, which supported 2" foam

[smg id=6537]

[smg id=6538]

[smg id=6541]

[smg id=6542]

[Wingman mothergoose]

Thanks for the replies, has given me a lot to think about!
How do you attach your legs to your baseboards? And how do you make them sturdy? I'm no carpenter!

Chris

[Thebigshot]

Thanks for the replies, has given me a lot to think about!
How do you attach your legs to your baseboards? And how do you make them sturdy? I'm no carpenter!

Chris

Hi

I use just a standard door hinge on the leg and to steady it I use 2 bits of wood cut to length from approximately middle of the leg hight or lower to just past the fist strengthening bit of wood.

Thanks
Alan

[Bealman]

Mine is at 44" above ground (permanent installation around garage walls) but totally over-engineered... 2x1 framework attached to walls and supported at front by 2x4 uprights, bracketed to concrete floor. Totally over the top. 2x1 would have sufficed, though it has survived a car being driven into it, so perhaps not.... 

[Wingman mothergoose]

I saw the Ikea trestles, they look good and are cheap, but they're only 70cm high, not really high enough for a layout is it? That's not even high enough for a dining table.....

After getting home from work and being curious, I measured the height of the underside of my dining room table(by 'coincidence' also from Ikea!), and that is exactly 70cm...

So I think 70cm is probably ideal, it means I'll be able to reach up to 3 feet over the layout, which means I can probably completely re use my existing baseboards(with some modification of course)...

Chris

[Calnefoxile]

If you look at my thread http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=3947.15 then half way down page 2, you'll see a photo of my boards and their legs. Their construction is pretty straight forward and I've used M8 bolts and wing nuts to attach them to the board. I do need to put some strengthening between the legs and the boards to stop it moving from side to side.

I'll measure them when I get home.

Cheers

Neal.