MicroTrains (un)Couplers

[SmileyFace]

I've been experimenting with MicroTrains couplings on fixed rakes of Farish wagons -the earlier ones that were fitted with the 'T' shank standard Rapido couplings.

This is proving reasonably successful and the MicroTrains couplings certainly look good, but the one area I am uncertain of is hands-free magnetic uncoupling. I am aware of the merits of permanent magnets versus electro-magnets but due to cost and simplicity considerations would prefer the permanent magnet approach.

Can anyone give some pointers as to what they have found to be the most successful way of positioning fixed magnets, (e.g between the running rails or outside the rails, etc.) and what magnets to use? I have been thinking of using cannibalised door catch magnets but could do with some wider wisdom on this or any other ideas.

What do you suggest?

[SmileyFace]

Thanks Zunnan.

As you have found the Kadee undertrack magnet to be successful with HO I have ordered one to see how it goes with N gauge couplings. I notice the Kadee magnet you mention is also marketed as the MicroTrains 308 uncoupler which it is claimed is suitable for N gauge.

Unfortunately, my track has been laid and ballasted for many years so a serious track re-laying exercise will be required. How close to the underside of the track do you find the magnets need to be? To save track re-laying is there any chance of fitting the magnet under the baseboard, (1/2 inch insulation board), or will this be too far from the track to operate the coupling?

[SmileyFace]

Ok and thanks for your update Zunnan.

Will have a go at cutting out a complete section of track when I get hold of an uncoupling magnet as it looks like, from your experience, mounting below my 13mm baseboard will be asking too much for it to operate.

[oscar]

You might get an easier solution here, just look at the power/size ratio:-

http://www.supermagnete.de/eng/index.php

Pete

[Bob(K)]

I've been experimenting with MicroTrains couplings on fixed rakes of Farish wagons -the earlier ones that were fitted with the 'T' shank standard Rapido couplings.

Hi there Zunnan.
I am interested to learn that you have been experimenting with Micro Trains couplers. I bought a 'starter set' recently but have not had much success getting the couplers at the right height above the track. My couplers sit very low. Secondly the couplers I am using couple the wagons too close to each other. I would be interested in knowing what version of the coupler you use, how you set them up and how you fixed them to the wagons/locos. I am using Farish stock on Kato track.

Bob(K)

[poliss]

Do you have the Micro-Trains 988 00 031 height gauge shown here? http://www.micro-trains.com/pl-ToolsAcc.php
I use needle nose pliers to very gently bend the metal bar to the right height.
As you use Kato track you can get a Kato Unitrack Magnetic Uncoupler Track cat. No. KTO-20032. http://tinyurl.com/6fdpy57
Some instructions for Micro-trains couplers on Farish stock can be found here.
http://tinyurl.com/5t2yeun

[Bob(K)]

Thanks for the info Poliss. Yes, I do have the height gauge, having purchased the starter kit. That last link you posted is quite useful and it seems that Micro Trains 1129 and 1130 are popular for Farish conversions. I tried using the ones in the starter set and, as you can see from the picture below, they sit too low. I also need a longer shank I think. The one on the left is the bogie from a Class 24 and on the right is a vent van:



Bob

[poliss]

The left one needs bending with pliers. Put one end of the pliers on the top of the brass coloured thingy*, the other end at the bottom and squeeze gently. You should have a small metal plate in your starter pack. Put this on the track and move the coupler over it till the thingy's just touch it.
*Technical term.

[Bob(K)]

The left one needs bending with pliers. Put one end of the pliers on the top of the brass coloured thingy*, the other end at the bottom and squeeze gently. You should have a small metal plate in your starter pack. Put this on the track and move the coupler over it till the thingy's just touch it.
*Technical term.

Ah, I wondered what the metal plate was for! I will give you suggestion a go. I still need some longer shanks though. Thanks

Bob

[cupoftea]

A couple of years ago I called a company who imported very small 'super magnets' (8mm diameter) and they very kindly sent me F.O.C. 6 samples (sorry I don't recall the companies name). These magnets are easily strong enough to un-couple model trains. I am planning on using them in a rod operated tube and plunger arrangement under my sidings to provide remote uncoupling.