Baseboard material

[jonclox]

I suspect that somewhen during the next month or so I shall be dismantling my existing layout and starting again from scratch and DCC.
Now I have orked out how I`m going to design the understructure but not the top as yet
What is the favoured basetp boerd at the momment. I`m sort of looking at plywood at the momment but am open to sugestion please

[MikeDunn]

I favour ply as well ... wouldn't touch that soft stuff (Sundeala ?), or MDF though.

I assume you're not building straight onto the ply, but will have a substrate (foam sheets ?) between the top surface (whatever you finish with) and the base ?  Apart from insulation, lets you cut down for streams etc much easier than into the ply !

Mike

[Sprintex]

I used MDF for mine, but agree with the above that ply is best

However I don't think any further form of covering is required unless you're obsessive about noise, better to have the track fixed to something solid


Paul

[Caz]

I've used 10mm ply for mine with the usual 2x1 framing, the ply was then covered with 4mm cork, nice and quiet result.  The guys at the local Spanish model railway club here make the whole baseboard from ply, results in a light and strong structure, wish I'd have know about it before I had my baseboard built.

[Phil Hendry]

I use 2" x 1" framing, with a 9mm ply top, covered in cork.  Seems to work, long-term - it's stable, doesn't seem to warp and is reasonably quiet.  I do varnish all the wooden bits before I glue down the cork - about four or five coats of polyurethane varnish seals it and gives a decent finish.  One other thing that does help with is that it makes the boards less sensitive to changes in humidty.

[4x2]

I've been using 12mm chipboard for years with no problems with the standard 2x1 frame. It is heavier, but as long as your layout isn't portable it won't be a problem. Recently though i've been using plain doors from B&Q which are made to two sizes - 6ft 6ins x 2ft 3ins and 6ft 6ins x 2ft 6ins, These are light weight and very easy to cut and very cheap ! (£20 )

[PostModN66]

I always use doors, or parts thereof, for every layout.   Why wouldn't you? 

Light, cheap, stiff and quick!   

The problem with framed baseboards is that because they are open at the bottom, they have no inherent resistance to twisting so need to be made very heavy to (try to c0mpensate).  Because doors are a closed construction, they are extremely stable.  Two considerations:   wiring - you need to make a little tool to pull the wires through (or use a big sewing needle) and they are not ideal for mounting Peco type point motors under the points....but I don't do that anyway because of maintenance concerns.  Fulgurex are fine with a torque rod, or use remote motors through wire-in-tube.

Cheers

Jon   

[Rabs]

I always use doors, or parts thereof, for every layout.   Why wouldn't you? 

Noise.  If these are the cheap, honeycomb hollow core doors that you mean I found the noise with long trains to be huge, even at low speeds.  I don't use any track underlay thoughh and I imagine that it would be much better with something to absorb the sound.

[4x2]

On top of the door I have used 50mm insulating foam and laid the track on top of that, seems to quieten down nicely. It also makes hiding the wiring really easy, just cut a line into the foam and push it in with a screwdriver, rather than run it through the door.

That said my last layout had peco underlay and was laid directly onto the door and it was quite effective. Now I know that the foam does degrade, but this can be slowed right down by spraying acrylic paint onto the foam first.

[daveg]

I used 9mm ply with a 2x1 frame. All materials varnished with several coats.

Warned off the Peco underlay, I went for the WS trackbed. Expensive but it does provide a decent shoulder for ballasting and reduces the noise although I do like to hear a bit as the trains thunder by.

Both the trackbed and the track were glued down with Copydex. Easy to lift and clean off the varnished board and the track when changes are needed.

Dave G

[PostModN66]

Hi Rabs,

Interesting point about noise - I haven't noticed any excess noise on Lofthole, which is Unitrack stuck directly to the baseboard - I will listen specifically at the next exhibition.  Next layout, Deansmoor is Peco track laid on insulation board - I would think that that should be fine.

Cheers   Jon 

[Newportnobby]

Looks like I'm alone in using properly seasoned 9mm Sundeala on a 2" x 1" frame
On top of that I have 1.5mm commercial grade rubber.
It all carves easily and accepts track pins very simply (these will be removed after ballasting)