Flickering lights

[porkie]

Hi peeps,

Ive just been having a play and noticed that when my farish loco's with lights go round
the tail lights start to flicker on/off.

Does anyone know what causes this as i havnt a clue where to start.

My layout is normal DC.

Cheers

Porkie

[Newportnobby]

Had a similar problem with my class 37 headcode boxes despite the tail lights being OK.
Cleaned the offending wheels and track and all was well again.
I can't say this will solve your problem, but it did the job for me

[EtchedPixels]

Loco or DMU ?

If its the loco it's possibly a hint that the track might need a bit of a clean. You'll usually see the light flicker before you notice the motor stuttering (as the momentum from a momentary loss of power will keep it moving and back onto powered track)

Alan

[porkie]

Thanks alan, its my loco's
funny you should say that as my DMU's dont do it.

Might have to get a new track rubber as the hornby one my wife got me seem to be alot smoother than the peco rubbers

[swisstony]

Throw away the track rubber dude.

Buy some IPA from ebay (isopropyl alcohol) and go steal cotton buds from your wife, this will clean the track far better and leave no mess

[scotsoft]

Once you have used the IPA to clean your track add one of these to a piece of rolling stock that you are running, they will help keep on top of the grime as you are running trains 

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=7687.msg85644#msg85644

cheers John.

[EtchedPixels]

Thanks alan, its my loco's
funny you should say that as my DMU's dont do it.

Might have to get a new track rubber as the hornby one my wife got me seem to be alot smoother than the peco rubbers

Different locos are more sensitive but it could be the wheels want a clean.

Be careful with IPA its good for removing stuff on track but don't get it on models.. it removes paint too

[Pete Mc]

Having not run anything on my layout for a while and also having misplaced my track rubber,I used a piece of timber from the frame that was used to support the inclines and raised area that I had realigned due to them being to steep for what I needed.The timber,a piece of 2x1 with the end cut off at a 45 degree angle and about a foot long did the job a treat and with no rubber tear off either.
It would seem like I'm not the only one to use this method either,the chaps who operate Bassenthwaite Lake,an n gauge exhibition layout also swear by this method also,although they also use 1200 grit wet and dry as well which I won't use myself as the wood does a good job by itself and my layout is dcc with sound now being rolled out onto it as and when I have the money.I have 4 dcc sound fitted trains,these being a hst,2 dmu's and a very soon to be completed class 40.The completed ones run very sweetly after a good clean with the lump of wood.
Might be of help,certainly cuts down on hoovering the layout after a session with the track rubber and to top it off,your fingers don't smell either.

Pete

[upnick]

Having not run anything on my layout for a while and also having misplaced my track rubber,I used a piece of timber from the frame that was used to support the inclines and raised area that I had realigned due to them being to steep for what I needed.The timber,a piece of 2x1 with the end cut off at a 45 degree angle and about a foot long did the job a treat and with no rubber tear off either.
It would seem like I'm not the only one to use this method either,the chaps who operate Bassenthwaite Lake,an n gauge exhibition layout also swear by this method also,although they also use 1200 grit wet and dry as well which I won't use myself as the wood does a good job by itself and my layout is dcc with sound now being rolled out onto it as and when I have the money.I have 4 dcc sound fitted trains,these being a hst,2 dmu's and a very soon to be completed class 40.The completed ones run very sweetly after a good clean with the lump of wood.
Might be of help,certainly cuts down on hoovering the layout after a session with the track rubber and to top it off,your fingers don't smell either.

Pete

Good idea with the wood Pete  same mothod but  hardboard works well  i've been told,   as EP   has said IPA    is fine to use as long as it's kept from  paint  finishes, i   use it all  the time on  my  tracks.   

I do hope the folk   cleaning  the track  with  wet  & dry know they're on their way to causing  more problems than   their method  prevents their rails  must be  covered in  thousands of scratches no matter how microscopic they will   contribute to   dirt build up.     

[porkie]

Thanks peeps
I will do an ebay search for IPA.

Never even knew about this. Hopefully it will sort out the horrible task
of cleaning the blades on my points too

Cheers
Porkie